Air Rifles: Cost Efficiency, Noise, and Power

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Daekar

New member
As per title. In the process of looking at houses, we've seen many places where the sound of gunfire would annoy the neighbors. We've put in an offer at a place where this may or may not be an issue, but I've been devoting a few braincells to the issue anyway. At the moment, I have two 22LR guns, one Marlin 60 and one CZ-452 Lux with the 28" barrel. The CZ is the quietest rimfire I've ever heard, and my goto gun for rimfire shooting or pest disposal. Still, if the occasion arises, I would like to have a quieter option available for target practice and small game (up to groundhogs, limited range shots). Are there any airguns that will fulfill these requirements? I've been looking at Gamo, Crosman, and RWS rifles, but some of the reviews put their muzzle energies far below advertised values. I figure a 22 cal airgun is called for during hunting... Or can I get away with a .177 cal? How quiet are these things anyway? Quiet enough to bother with?

EDIT: Oh yes, and cost. Is it really expensive to purchase and feed a hunting-power airgun? The price ceiling I set for myself is $300. If the gun costs more than that, the neighbors can just deal... I might as well fork out the bucks for a silenced 22LR if things get more than that.
 
Good question. I've done quite a bit of backyard shooting and small game hunting with both.

.22 CB long is an amazing round in a longer-barreled bolt, lever or pump. Tick-thunk. Keep in mind all the usual "know your target and what's behind it" applies. The cost of CB longs seems to be going up a lot quicker than standard LR ammo, though.

Airguns- I've pretty much hunted with the following: Beeman C-1 carbine, a Beeman/Webley Hurricane, and a BSA Meteor, all in .177.

The Hurricane is fairly loud for a pistol, but I've done a ton of hunting with it, as it was so easy to throw in a back pack and take camping.

The C-1, shooting probably in the 600 fps range with Kodiaks is quite accurate, and with a scope was really impressive. The Kodiaks are heavy, but really seem to smooth out the firing cycle compared to light pellets. I run a ghost-ring setup on it now, but I'll probably put the SS-3 scope back on it. Not sure I'd trust it to kill something as large as a groundhog unless it was the most clueless groundhog around...

The Meteor was a freebie, but shoots great. It was stashed in the garage of a friends house that had quite a bit of acreage around it, and was the airgun that was passed around whenever there was a group up there.

If I were you I'd look at an R-7. It's not the most powerful airgun out there, but it IS precise, and as far as customizing it goes, the sky is the limit. I tend to favor break-barrel springers. RWS-34's seem to be a great value these days as well.
 
The biggest benefit of conventional airguns is safety. A silenced .22 may actually be quieter than an airgun, and it definitely has more power than any airgun in the $300 range, but it can be dangerous out to a mile or so while a conventional airgun pellet typically runs out of steam by about 400 yards.

You won't be killing game with an airgun based on muzzle energy. Conventional airguns don't have anwhere near the energy of even the most anemic firearms and even penetration tends to be limited since the projectiles are quite light. It comes down to shot placement and picking the shot even moreso than with firearms. Brain shots are called for on anything but the smallest game.

You can get a decent airgun that is accurate enough to take small game in your price range. If you go with a spring-piston airgun and want to scope it, you may be hard pressed to make your budget.
 
I tell you what? I bought my son a full replica of a S&W M&P 15 airsoft that shoots .25 gram BB's and this thing is awesome! If it weren't for the orange tip, you'd swear it was real. I git him the full metal version that shoots roughly 420 FPS. The best part? It shoots semi auto and full auto!!!:D:D Very quiet and does a ton of damage for an airsoft.

If we wanted to, I could easy see taking out any small animal with this. If you want to see what it is like, check out the link:

http://www.paintballguns.net/Airsoft_Smith_and_Wesson_M&P_15_Full_Metal_Body_Airsoft_AEG_2246/
 
I shoot tree rats in the back yard with CCI .22 CB shorts. Out of a bolt-action, they sound exactly like a pellet gun.
 
I have a RWS that shoots .177 pellets at 1100 fps, at 50-75 feet the pellet with pass right thru a squirrel.
The Diana isn't in your price range but its a fine and accurate gun. You'll need a scope made for air-guns, as regular rifle scopes will crumble under spring piston bi-directional recoil. Also, target turrets are a boost when shooting very short ranges due to the scope height and pellet trajectory.
They are a load of cheap fun and targets abound, pine cones, apples on the tree, paint balls, and you can shoot safely almost anywhere with a pellet gun.
 
I'm a big airgun fan, as they're legal in town here, but firearms are absolutely not. The .177 has taken raccoon with the right pellets, lots of squirrels and chipmunks, and an English Sparrow or 50. The shot placement is critical, and you're looking at 30 yards for the smallest game. The CBs have also been shot around here by someone i'm familiar with. They're quieter than the pellet gun, depending on the rifle, and they're much more powerful. However, pellets stop a whole lot quicker. I'd say get both and use each to your advantage. I heard rumor of a dead skunk that met a CB...
 
Airsoft guns are typically unsuitable for small game hunting. Most .22 pellets are maybe 14 or 15 grains. A .25 gram bb weighs about 4 grains and you will be lucky to get it moving half as fast.

Airgun noise depends on the type you buy. A pneumatic air rifle makes a sharp and weaponlike "crack" firing sound unless you buy one with a built in quieting device.

A spring piston air rifle makes a strange mechanical clunk sound, and they generally tend to be quieter than pneumatic air rifles. If you see one with a silencer, it's just a gimmick since there is more action noise than anything.

.177 is generally adequate for birds, especially if you are a good shot. If your intended game has fur, .22 pellets are the way to go.

As for price, you should be able to get a decent airgun in your price range. Does your $300 include a scope?
 
Actually I was planning to use iron sights. I find that it's easy to forget how to use irons so I want some practice. I figure that anything I'll need to shoot with a pellet gun will be close enough that the scope won't matter too much.

I have been looking at the "Nitro piston" rifles that are break barrel but use a compressed cylinder of gas instead of a spring. Sounded like a good idea to me, and quieter. If I plain old won't be able to use even a 22 pellet gun for skunks and groundhogs, I might rethink the hunting aspect of the air rifle. It sounds like if I need to remove something that substantial from the gene pool, a 22lr is the way to go.

If I relegate the airgun to plinking or extremely small game, would a 177 do the job without being too noisy?

EDIT: I think I will add a box of those CB rounds you guys were talking about to the ammo box even if I don't get a house where they're necessary. They sound like a good thing to have around.
 
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I figure that anything I'll need to shoot with a pellet gun will be close enough that the scope won't matter too much.
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Yes and no. Yes, they're going to be fairly close. On the other hand, precision is the key to successful airgun hunting and the targets are pretty small.

The gas spring (nitro piston) airguns are going to be quieter because there's less mechanical noise, but will be similar in terms of muzzle blast. Of course, muzzle blast is only about half the discharge noise of a typical metal-spring, spring-piston airgun.

.177 will do the trick on even fairly large game but you'll have to limit yourself to brain shots on anything other than small-medium birds if you want to be sure of anchoring your targets.

As far as the choice between a rimfire and an airgun, I'll go back to my comment about safety. If you have neighbors close enough to be bothered by gunfire then you have neighbors close enough to be killed by gunfire too. An airgun is going to be a much safer option in that situation, particularly if you ever think you might have to shoot upwards or in a direction where there's not a particularly good natural backstop. Conventional airgun pellets, because they are much lighter than bullets and much less efficient projectiles, run out of steam in only a few hundred yards and are extremely unlikely to penetrate walls or ricochet dangerously even at fairly close ranges.
 
As far as the choice between a rimfire and an airgun, I'll go back to my comment about safety. If you have neighbors close enough to be bothered by gunfire then you have neighbors close enough to be killed by gunfire too. An airgun is going to be a much safer option in that situation, particularly if you ever think you might have to shoot upwards or in a direction where there's not a particularly good natural backstop. Conventional airgun pellets, because they are much lighter than bullets and much less efficient projectiles, run out of steam in only a few hundred yards and are extremely unlikely to penetrate walls or ricochet dangerously even at fairly close ranges.
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This sounds like an awesome way to justify an airgun purchase to my wife even if I don't need one! :D You make a good point, and I'll definitely remember it when looking at my options.
 
I have a springer .22 that fires a pellet at about 900 fps. It makes a loud crack, but it is not as loud as firing a .22 short from a rifle. My neighborhood is 1 acre tracts - I could shoot it in my back yard, but even with that kind of space, some neighbors would likely object.

Gamo makes one with a silencer - however, I tend to doubt the effectiveness of silencers on air guns. The "crack" is created by the supersonic flight of the pellet, not any report.
 
I think at 900 fps you shouldn't be getting a supersonic crack... I believe you are sub-sonic out to 1100 fps or so. I'll have to look it up.
I've been mulling this over as well. I've always had .177 airguns, but am considering a .22 at between 800 and 900 fps. Mine will be primarily a grackle getter. Although, this might be included, if they don't learn to stay out of my garage...

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It is very important when it comes to airgun silence to make a distinction between spring piston and PCP (pre charged pneumatic) models.

With spring piston I also mean gas piston guns (which IMO are nothing but a marketing hype). Spring piston guns do benefit from a silencer, even though you will always have quite a bit of noise from the piston slamming home.

When choosing a quit spring piston gun do not go for the most powerful model if you want something silent. If it is your first or only airgun I would also not buy a powerful spring piston one either. With powerful I mean spring guns that generate over 22Ftlbs, 18-20 FtLbs is plenty for target shooting up to 40 yards. Good brands / models to consider are: Weihrauch HW 77, 97, 95. Diana 34, Airarms etc. Or even the Ruger copy of the Diana model 34 is meant to be decent. CZ also makes great beginner guns. You could even consider a second hand match spring piston rifle, for example a Feinwerkbau 300. Try to stay away from brands such Gamo and Hatsan and other Chinese, Turkish, Spanish and Mexican guns (and their rebranded versions). They IMO make over marketed rubbish that give spring guns in general a bad name.

PCP’s will be even quieter than a silenced subsonic .22 rim fire, I have tons experience in shooting both. A good PCP will allow to you shoot one hole groups at 50 year easily. They have no vibration, even less recoil than a .22 rim fire and many are multi shot. They are powerful enough to take down most small game. Brands / models to consider are CZ or the BSA Lonestar (if you are on a budget, and even if you are not they are still great guns), Weihrauch, Steyr(second hand) etc. I would stay away from brands such as Airforce, Korean brands etc . unless you want to spend a lot of money and time on tuning them. I would also avoid overhyped & overpriced brands such as Daystate, Ripley, Theoben unless you can get a good second hand deal.

Many PCP’s will easily generate between 30 and 40 Ftlbs. A spring gun at these power levels would make a lot of noise (even with a silencer) and would be hard to control. The more power a PCP has the less shots you get between fills, this is something to consider depending on whether it is mainly going to be a hunter or a target shooter.

A PCP would be my first choice for backyard shooting up to 50 yards. Complete silence ( your bullet trap will make more noise), dead on accurate and cost saving in the long run ( or short depending on how much you shoot:cool:).

Of course there are things such .50( and bigger) call PCP’s but for obvious reasons I have left these exotics out. There are also CO2 guns but unless you plan on bulk filling I would not consider them, as most CO2 cartridge guns are not what I would consider serious adult airguns. But if you want to shoot at short distances and do not want to hunt a second hand match (Anshutz, Walter, Steyr, Feinwerkbau etc) CO2 gun might be the way to go as these guns can often be purchased for very little money. There is also pre compressed air which in the past was very popular with match airguns, and which you now mainly find with some (cheaper ) airpistols.

Anyway I hope that this helps.
 
Try to stay away from brands such Gamo and Hatsan and other Chinese, Turkish, Spanish and Mexican guns (and their rebranded versions). They IMO make over marketed rubbish that give spring guns in general a bad name.
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You can't just make that blanket statement. I own a Chinese B21/22 - it is the side-lever somewhat copy of a RWS 48. The Chinese B21 has a superior adjustable milled steel trigger system compared to the cheap stamped/plastic components of the RWS 48. Also, the barrel is heavier, giving the gun a bit more stability. The cocking lever is adjustable on the Chinese gun, giving you more leverage with the stiff spring. The chamber and piston components are at least as good, if not better than the RWS. The finish on the Chinese guns is not bad - flat black/phosphate - arguably, the RWS finish is prettier (not more durable, however).

I advise this - if you are looking at buying a springer, DO YOUR RESEARCH!!!! Don't go based on brand name. Don't worry where the gun is made. Look at the internal components.
 
I know that there are some decent Chinese knockoffs out there, but also some horrible trash. The Ruger copy of the Diana (RWS) 34 is also made in China. Some people are also very fond of the BAM 51/52 guns. The Norinco 1911’s are also widely known as very reliable guns. But for someone that is new into airgunning I personally still would not recommend Chinese gunst. As IMO their quality control is not as good and they sometimes need a lot of work done to them. As the thread starter is new into airguns I also did not want to confuse him too much, and just stick to well established brands. It is true that RWS (Diana) use some aluminium and plastic in their guns, but then again so do H&K, Glock , Steyr and Sig just to name a few.

For an all steel indestructible springer you cannot beat the HW 77,97(aka Beeman 77/97) and 80 (aka Beeman R1). Weihrauch is also the second largest airgun manufacturer in the world, quality wise they are the SIG of airguns and should last a lifetime. Most spring piston field target competitions are won with the HW97. And if you want to go crazy at a later stage you can always tune and upgrade it, it is that way almost as versatile as the Ruger 10/22.

But my general advice is go for quality and you will not regret it. With the price of ammo these days you will soon break even. Do not go for power (especially with spring guns), for power I would recommend firearms ;). Gamo and Hatsan for example make some very powerful spring piston rifles but their unpleasant triggers, build quality and heavy spring jolt will turn many beginners of airguns.
 
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How do you do research on something you can't get good answer for unless
You are both experienced and know how to assess?

I may know guns but not a clue on airguns so would have to go with someone else knowledge.

I think they were good guidelines for the poster.

I am looking for something similar and found it very helpful.
 
Blackthunder, you make some excellent points. It is true that the Chinese B21 side-cockers will generally need to be disassembled, cleaned out and re-lubed before use. While the components are well made, they leave metal dust behind that can damage the piston and the seals. And, in order to do this, you need to make a device to compress the spring to safely disassemble and assemble the gun. It's not as simple as breaking down most firearms. But, the quality of the gun, once finished, is better than the RWS 48.

You can adjust and polish the 2-stage trigger to make it exceptional. My B21 is extremely accurate, even with a relatively inexpensive scope. The wood stock is made of an attractive wood (although, if you look close you might spot some filler). The finish isn't bad, but I've thought about stripping the stock and applying a satin oil finish. I don't mind doing these kinds of things, because I only paid $125 for the rifle.

I've shot it quite a bit over the last 4 years or so, and the seals have held up fine. Only one part has broken on the gun - the rod that connects the lever to the piston.....this was because someone who wasn't supposed to use it, didn't know how to use it, cranked down on the lever while the "bear-claw" had the bolt locked back (there's a simple release-catch to allow the bolt to close after cocking). This bent the rod and I had to replace it. The good thing was, I was able to make a new one from steel bar-stock. Just threaded both ends of the bar stock, polished and blued the rod (not necessary), and it was good as new. Of course, I later discovered that I could have just purchased one for about $8.00. Anyway, I digress.....:p
 
I bought a Big Cat 1200 made by Gamo. With PBR ammo 1200 fps. With lead 1000fps. And you don't have to sit there and pump it 10 times. Just brake the barrel load and its ready quick. And just like with bullets there are a variety of pellets for different things. With a penetrating pellet that has a stainless steel ball in the nose I shot a fram oil filter from 50 ft away and it almost went clean through. Its got some kick to it. But for $160 its the middle of the road for pellet gun prices and comes with a Gamo scope which is not bad at all.
 
Daekar,
While you're grabbing some of the CB shorts, keep your eyes open for some Aguilla Super Colibri. They're a 22 lr round that has no gunpowder, just a primer and a 22 grain bullet. They're actually quieter than the break barrel springers that I own. They won't cycle a semi, but they work great in a bolt or lever action. The last ones I bought were about $30/brick of 500.
The Super Colibri work great on tree rats too!
Kevin
 
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