Advice on wear on S&W revolver

R

RampantAndroid

New member
So I have some questions on wear on my revolver: I'm cleaning it now (gee, I need to clean more often - carbon buildup was a little much.)

First photo: where the cylinder slides in and out, the bluing is worn off, and you see a line there. This seems like something bound to happen - can anyone chime in on this?

Second and third photos: Both my M29 and M58 have this to some extent: the area right around the breach (don't know if my terminology is right here - the back side of barrel, where the gap between the barrel and cylinder is) is very rough. On the M29, the metal chipped on one side, on the outer edge. On my M58, it's just rough the whole way around. This doesn't look like led build up, but rather damage to the metal. Is this normal? My 41 magnum loads are a little hot, between 1500-1600 FPS - is this at fault? My 44 magnum loads are factory.

Edit: On the 44, the cylinder can rub when you close/open it, which MIGHT explain the damage in the third photo?

Fourth and fifthphotos: The front of the cylinder in the circled areas (all 6 of these) are turning a silvery color - on both guns. Is this just from the flash of the shot and regular wear? Did I not clean often enough? I can't get this off, not with hoppes at least.

Thanks!
 
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Just enjoy the gun... As stated all firearms will show some wear. I cant even make them out. It's a gun that will probably be usefull for at least another hundred years.
 
That first picture is where the center pin wears on the recoil shield as the cylinder is opened and closed. Very common wear on a shooter revolver. All of my revolvers exhibit that wear to some degree. I can't comment on the forcing cone because I didn't see any wear that would lead me to worry.
 
Perfectly normal wear patterns.

Bluing isn't the most durable of surface finishes.

The metal damage on the barrel extension is from high pressure gas escaping from around the cylinder gap, especially in magnum revolver loads. High pressure, very hot gas... it's going to cause wear.

As for the front of the cylinder, do you tote these around in holsters?
 
The marks are all normal handling and shooting marks, I believe. The only one I'm unsure about is 1163.

1160 - I think they makes that detent stronger than normal as it guarantees lockup in their design. You could spend $100+ with a custom smith to polish the detent to a mirror and reduce spring pressure. That would allow the finish to last a little while longer. . . or ignore it as part of the design.

1161 - I can't see anything.

1162 - Did you ever put this gun in a case or holster? That is how this happened. Clean sheepskin lining will make this last longer.

1163 - I can't see it well, but if metal is displaced, you might ask a smith to look into it.

That said, this is why blued guns are loved and enjoyed.
 
Your concerns are why I have a model 19 357mag, but I carry a used model 66 357mag. Stainless is a lot harder to notice wear on!
 
I can't see any metal flaking away in your pictures. I can see normal wear on a blued revolver however. How are you storing these guns? Holster, case?
 
I will not accept that is normal wear.
Click to expand...

Then you might as well sell the gun. When you ask and those who know more than you do give you an answer, and you "will not accept" that answer, you're just worrying because you want something to worry about.

There is one way to avoid what you see. Leave the gun in the box.
 
wow - tough crowd.

FWIW, photo 3 does concern me, as I do see some flaking, compared to photo 2, which looks like normal wear from escaping gas.

The OP indicated the cylinder rubs on the forcing cone when opening/closing. It shouldn't be doing this, and why no one said as much surprises me.

I agree the wear (only on that side of the forcing cone) can be from the cylinder. It may be from excessive endshake (fore-aft play of the cylinder), or yoke play. Neither are difficult fixes, but it'd be worth having a gunsmith take a look to avoid further wear.
 
My number one S&W is my Model 28 that I was issued in the Mid 70s and carried most of my career in LE. My department also gave it to me when I retired.

It has holster wear from 20 years of being a service revolver. You don't get hoister wear if the gun sets in the holster and never moves.

I used my revolver, I practiced, shot lots of moose at traffic accidents, shot in competition to keep in shape. Carried in in my hand during building searches. Several other reasons for a cop using his holster.

I was also in the NG, I carried it on Guard drills traveling around the State of Alaska.

My holster wear is honest, I wouldn't trade that wear for the best finish in the country.

I did (and do) keep it coated with "RIG", that helps protect the finish, but still.

Model%2028.JPG
 
"My holster wear is honest, I wouldn't trade that wear for the best finish in the country."

That about sums it up. Well said, sir.
 
Photo 1 is completely normal, nothing to worry about there. Photos 2 and 3 look to me like they may be powder fouling and lead deposits rather than damage to the barrel and photos 4 and 5 look like they might be the same issue. As to the cylinder dragging against the forcing cone, I suspect that is also fouling which is causing clearance issues between the two parts.
 
On the model 29's flaking, the metal is rough, and there is metal missing. I removed the crane and checked for fouling and saw none.

Another friend has said the wear on the bluing seems normal, as according to him the quality of the bluing at S&W has suffered quite a bit in recent years. Frankly, given the notches getting worn very quickly on my model 58 as well (one notch is worn enough to affect lock up movement) I'm thinking I will sell these. I'm horribly unimpressed with S&W, and amazed at how fast these wear. They have less than 1000 rounds through them.

Oh - on wear, no holster use.

I've contacted S&W and am hoping they will service them before I get rid of them.

EDIT: The 44 has a bent ejector rod. I've never dropped or abused this gun, it was bought "new" off gunbroker.
 
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All photos look like normal wear or fouling. revolvers spit lead, some guns and loads more than others.

Something is not right here.

Btw when one says smiths bluing has suffered, they mean it's not as shinny / polished as it once was. The depth in the metal and ruggedness is the same which relative to other finishes is not very good.

Removing the crane on a smith is not a trivial endeavor. Not something one whom is unsure of things should try.

Smith has it's lemons, but 2 to one owner would be a surprise but anything is possible. Rather than rush them back to smith why not find a good local gunsmith who can go over your concerns with you and recommend service if any is needed?
 
Pulling the crane/yolk is a pretty simple thing that should be done every once in awhile for proper cleaning. It slides right out with the removal of a single screw. The cylinder then slips off of the crane. No gunsmith or special tools required. Lefty loosey, righty tighty is about the extent of any arcane knowledge required. That and a screwdriver.
 
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