Advice on stopping rust.

The best oil for your gun is the best oil for your car, Mobil 1 synthetic. It doesn't evaporate as fast and is superior to most "gun" oils. It amazes me that a lot of "gun" oil companies can sell the public a 4 oz bottle of gun oil for $5. Trust me when I say that good old Mobil 1 is superior to the vast majority of oils marketed for firearms use, and a lot cheaper.
 
Some people really seem to love the Rem Oil but for myself I never thought it was that great a lube. I like using miltech-1 with some shooters choice. I can tell you Rem Oil is not the best for cleaning as I have found many products that pull up powder and dirt long after rem oil pulls up nothing.
 
Steel wool fibers don't imbed in stainless. Just clean the residue off after using it.

Correct only to the extent the steel wool does not embed.

The steel wool leaves carbon steel smeared on the surface of the stainless steel, especially brushed stainless steel (all those tiny brush marks are scratches in the stainless).

If not protected from the air with oil, the carbon steel on the surface can start to rust, leaving rust on the stainless.

It is called stain-less, not stain-none.

There are more corrosion resistant alloys than the ones used in firearms, but they are vulnerable to other chemicals.

Most stainless alloys are vulnerable to chloride ions, as in the ones in your sweat form Sodium Chloride (ordinary salt).

The chloride ion can react with the chromium layer that protects the steel.
Once the chromium is damaged the iron in the alloy is exposed.

Passivating of stainless steel cleans off material that may be left from machining, or exposed in the alloy when the metal was machined.

After a thorough cleaning of any shop debris, an acid bath is used to remove any iron that may be on the surface (from cutting tools or the alloy).

This allows the corrosion resistant passivation layer to form uniformly on the stainless surface.

Damage the passivation layer and corrosion can still occur.

An oil film can help prevent damaged passivation areas from corroding.


This is the same reason you should not use a steel wool pad to scrub you stainless kitchen sink, or even a granite counter.
 
Last edited:
well I guess I lucked out... the store was sold out of steel wool so I have been using a pretty harsh (for plastic) scrubber and it got the rust off with some elbow grease.

I currently have it well coated with REM oil but I ordered some of the better stuff listed above (I cant recall the name at the moment)
 
The plastic isn't harsh. It's the abrasive grit thats embedded in the plastic that does the real scrubbing.

I wouldn't advise using anything harsher than the green kitchen Scotchbrite pads on a gun and I'd only use them lightly until I saw what they did. Some Scotchbrite pads (purple, for instance) would easily strip the surface finish or bluing off a firearm.
 
Hi I use breakfree CLP and Militec-1 on my carry gun which is blued. It is a colt cobra and I wipe it down weekly with either of the above mentioned products and I've yet to have any surface rust appear since I started using these products.

I live in Florida as well which is very humid and not friendly to anything metal that's exposed to the weather here on daily basis. Give these products a try you won't be disappointed.

Also you should use a pocket holster as it will repel moisture and keep the gun in a proper position in your pocket. My favorite two are galco's "pocket protector" model pro 158,and kramer leather's pocket holster it is made from shell horse hide and has a plastic panel in front to prevent printing.

The kramer pocket holster is widely regarded as one of if not the best pocket holster out there. Its not cheap but it is worth every penny,good luck.
 
Pocket carry holsters, CLPs-gun oils, NIC-Cerakote, NP3+...

There are a few good posts here so far with useful information.
I'd add that it's a good idea to clean/wipe out your pocket holster from time to time to get rid of any dust, dirt, lint, crud, etc that may build up.
Noted firearms instructor/use of force expert; Massad Ayoob said years ago, that he used a small .38spl over a .380acp or 9mm semi auto pistol for these reasons.
As for CLPs or gun oils, I'd suggest a well made brand like Eezox, MPro7, Weaponshield, Gunzilla, or Ballistol. I've used these CLPs for years in the Florida heat & VA summers for many years.
If you decide to get a custom coating or plate job, check into Black-T, Robar NP3+, Metalife, or NIC/Cerakote. Black-T or Green-T is not crazy high price wise and will last for years. The NP3+ and NIC-Cerakote are not cheap but are highly rated by industry professionals. APWCogan.com offers the NIC coating in a long list of cool custom colors. White to black, grey to blue.

ClydeFrog
 
I live where there is plenty of heat, humidity, sweat, and salt spray. I wipe my carry pistols with a silicone cloth and have had no trouble with rust. Oil never worked 100% for me.

When the cloth gets to where it doesn't seem to be doing anything, I spray it with silicone lubricant bought at a boat supply place or auto parts store. My current cloth is 3 years old and the spray can of silicone is about 2. This is what I like: ckeap and effective rust protection.
 
Back
Top