Accuracy load workup. How do YOU do it?

Ed308,

I understand that, that is one of the "gadgets" that I am refering to.

However, that does not really answer my question.
 
I use essentially the same method you describe. I typically don't chamfer and de-burr the neck, and I don't have a collet die. I just put a small flat on the mouth by pressing the case mouth against the bench top. That gives the tension needed to hold the bullet. Repeat a few times to verify and you're done. Cheap and effective.

For repeaters, I also make sure the length is suitable for magazine loading and feeding. I use a case with sized neck for that so the bullet stays at the test length.
 
Arbrn Rngr,

I do the same but be aware that the rifling can "grab" the bullet and pull it out of the case giving you a false reading. I do it several times to make sure.
 
Arbrn rngr and Joe-ker, if you're in the mood to compare your method to this one, have at it: No speciall equipment needed.

Drop your bullet into the chamber and lightly tap it with a cleaning rod so it stays in place but is not jammed into the rifling. Put the cleaning rod (cannot be a coated rod) into the muzzle and gently lower it until it contacts the bullet. Make a line on the rod with a fine tip "magic marker" that is half-way around the rod. Knock the bullet out. Take your dummy cartridge that you made in the way you described, chamber it, insert the rod and make another line completely around the rod.

If you only see one line around the rod, both bullets are touching the rifling at an equal position. If your dummy round produced a line that is below the half-line, your round is jammed further into the rifling rather than just touching. If your goal is to seat that bullet 0.02" away, in this circumstance it is really closer than that.

The problem is you may end up with a round that is into the rifling (due to manufacturing variation as described by USSR above) and pressure increases.
 
I load to magazine length for all of my loads. The seating longer and playing with things to get the just right length was not worth it to me in the end. The pain in the rear to pay off ratio was not there for me. It was a whole lot of work, for minimal if any pay off in increased accuracy.

For powder choices I look at Nostler's guide. I have had great results following for the most accurate powder for the weight of bullet tested. The exact loads have been close to what worked for them. The thing is as of this writing and over 8 calibers of rifle loads it has been spot on for powder choice.

I use the Dan Newbury round robin load work up method. I prefer a very good load that I can change something a bit, and still get very good accuracy. Rather than having to be so picky about every minute thing being perfect. I also tend to find a great load faster this way as well.

I would rather spend my time shooting a great load that will perform very well. Than spending tons of time, money, and labor trying to get the "perfect load." That with my shooting I may not be able to tell the difference anyway.
 
m&p45acp10+1 said:
I load to magazine length for all of my loads. The seating longer and playing with things to get the just right length was not worth it to me in the end. The pain in the rear to pay off ratio was not there for me. It was a whole lot of work, for minimal if any pay off in increased accuracy.

For powder choices I look at Nostler's guide. I have had great results following for the most accurate powder for the weight of bullet tested. The exact loads have been close to what worked for them. The thing is as of this writing and over 8 calibers of rifle loads it has been spot on for powder choice.

I use the Dan Newbury round robin load work up method. I prefer a very good load that I can change something a bit, and still get very good accuracy. Rather than having to be so picky about every minute thing being perfect. I also tend to find a great load faster this way as well.

I would rather spend my time shooting a great load that will perform very well. Than spending tons of time, money, and labor trying to get the "perfect load." That with my shooting I may not be able to tell the difference anyway.
Click to expand...

It has worked out well for me too.
 
"...starting at .035" off the lands..." Forget that until you have the most accurate load worked up. Just seat to max OAL for whatever cartridge your loading.
The whole off-the-lands thing is a 100% optional load tweaking technique that isn't necessary. Absolutely is not something you fiddle with until you have a load developed.
"...just "pull back" .020 from here..." Maybe. Every rifle prefers a different distance off the lands, so 20 thou may or may not be right.
 
"...starting at .035" off the lands..." Forget that until you have the most accurate load worked up. Just seat to max OAL for whatever cartridge your loading.
The whole off-the-lands thing is a 100% optional load tweaking technique that isn't necessary. Absolutely is not something you fiddle with until you have a load developed.
"...just "pull back" .020 from here..." Maybe. Every rifle prefers a different distance off the lands, so 20 thou may or may not be right.
Click to expand...

Through my many years of visiting internet gun forums I've learned several things.....Most notably, in this case, if there is any little thing that can be done to make the reloading process more tedious people will do it.....
 
cdoc42 Arbrn rngr and Joe-ker, if you're in the mood to compare your method to this one, have at it: No speciall equipment needed.

Drop your bullet into the chamber and lightly tap it with a cleaning rod so it stays in place but is not jammed into the rifling. Put the cleaning rod (cannot be a coated rod) into the muzzle and gently lower it until it contacts the bullet. Make a line on the rod with a fine tip "magic marker" that is half-way around the rod. Knock the bullet out. Take your dummy cartridge that you made in the way you described, chamber it, insert the rod and make another line completely around the rod.

If you only see one line around the rod, both bullets are touching the rifling at an equal position. If your dummy round produced a line that is below the half-line, your round is jammed further into the rifling rather than just touching. If your goal is to seat that bullet 0.02" away, in this circumstance it is really closer than that.

The problem is you may end up with a round that is into the rifling (due to manufacturing variation as described by USSR above) and pressure increases.
Click to expand...


I agree. I'll give it try just to see. It's not my desire to touch the lands, just to decrease the jump---- I back off .030 to be safe.

And l agree there are more important steps to focus on for accuracy. I plan to focus more on these.
 
I buy 6-10 boxes of different bullet grain, manufacturer, factory loads and shoot 'em to find out what grain bullet my rifle "likes" best. Then I track down were to buy THAT bullet. I trim ALL cases to length, use ALL that fire-formed brass, clean brass well, inside and out. Determine my COAL, back off 0.020 and reload 4 rounds going from minimum to 1 under max powder charge with 2-4 different powders. I never use max powder charge. Then I test group all those rounds and select the smallest MOA. Just worked up my Howa .243 this past week, at 100yards it shoots >/= .5 MOA.....good enough for me.
 
Using the word "grain" in that context is incorrect......it is the "weight" of the bullet. Sorry I don't mean to be a grammar nazi but I'm seeing it stated incorrectly way too much these days.
 
Damon555,

I myself having been educated by Catholic nuns am a grammar Nazi. However "grain" is a unit of weight, and it is specified as such on every box of bullets one purchases.

We better inform the manufacturers of this "mistake".
 
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