Acceptable revolver for pocket carry?

I carry a Smith & Wesson 642. For pocket carry, I would stay away from the exposed hammer models. There is too much risk of the hammer snagging on the draw. Stick with a hammerless.
 
AdamSean said:
For pocket carry, I would stay away from the exposed hammer models. There is too much risk of the hammer snagging on the draw. Stick with a hammerless.
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I WANT the external hammer (both on my 360sc .357 J-Frame snubby and on my 69 .44mag L-Frame) ... I value shooting SA too much to give that up. For me, DA is there in the event that I'm surprised by a very close-range threat, and don't even have the time to cock the hammer. Otherwise, I shoot SA. My SA trigger (on both guns) is about 2-1/2 lbs, versus about 9 lbs DA ... SA is like driving a Ferrari ... DA is like driving a truck. When I draw, I have my thumb over the spur, and I've never had a snag.
 
I WANT the external hammer (both on my 360sc .357 J-Frame snubby and on my 69 .44mag L-Frame) ... I value shooting SA too much to give that up. For me, DA is there in the event that I'm surprised by a very close-range threat, and don't even have the time to cock the hammer. Otherwise, I shoot SA. My SA trigger (on both guns) is about 2-1/2 lbs, versus about 9 lbs DA ... SA is like driving a Ferrari ... DA is like driving a truck. When I draw, I have my thumb over the spur, and I've never had a snag.


I do the same thing. I also feel with my thumb over the hammer I get a smoother draw as weapon is steadier.
 
I said "When I draw, I have my thumb over the spur, and I've never had a snag."

Actually, I realized last night that, for my M69, I DON'T draw with my thumb over the hammer spur. Every night, just to keep in practice (and to expose any possible problems with my technique), I draw my M69 from under my shirt, right before I get undressed to go to bed. I've been doing that for about four months, every night, and it's all fairly "automatic" now. But last night I was paying more attention that usual (because of my comment in my previous post), and I was surprised to see that I DON'T have my thumb on the hammer spur during the draw ... the hammer is just too far above my grip on that big gun to do that comfortably and stably. But I never get a snag as I draw.

Also, for several years now I've used a DeSantis Nemesis pocket holster for my 360sc. I just test-drew it, and there also I found that I don't need to use my thumb on the spur: the Nemesis has a hood that covers the hammer spur, and when I draw, the top of the holster comes up slightly out of my pocket, and when the gun comes out of the holster, there's nothing to snag on. I think for my previous holster (an Uncle Mike's), I DID cover the spur with my thumb during the draw, but that's not necessary with the Nemesis.
 
Okie, I just Googled S&W 651 and the pics that came up don't look anything like the top revolver in your pic. Are you sure that one is a 651? It looks like a 638 to me.

Late edit: Never mind. I just figured out those were Taurus revolvers.
 
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S&W 642 and Ruger LCR in .38 special are both equally comfortable to pocket carry. Both are also very affordable. I carry my 642 in a cheap Uncle Mike's Size 4 that works great.
 
I like the 640 for coat pocket carry....i'll go with a IWB holster for summer carry. For pants/shorts pockets, a lighter 642 would be better.

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The only decent revolver I have ever been able to carry is a 38sp S&W 642-2 in a $23 pocket holster DESANTIS M44BJMKZ0 marked "MK"

And it is small and light compared to a Colt New Service.
 
I looked at the Ruger LCR and S&W Body Guard 38. I went with S&W because the laser was closer to the bore of the gun than the Ruger.
Now that Ruger has it in 9mm. I might get it without the laser.
 
a 2 inch barrel j frame 38 in a pocket holster works for me, but my main choice is a Glock 30s iwb holster.
 
S&W 340PD is the easiest center fire j frame to pocket.
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Or, the 360PD (or its predecessor, my 360sc), if you prefer to shoot SA like I do. I've never had any problem with the external hammer interfering with the draw, and for me personally, shooting DA is just for an emergency when there's no time to cock. I just don't like shooting DA if I can avoid it.
 
im like mike, i too dont like the single action only guns...prefer a partially exposed hammer like the smith airweight. Another cheaper option thats also light is the charter arms on duty.
 
Smith & Wesson 442 with a Uncle Mikes #4 pocket holster. The #3 didn't cover the trigger to my liking. With the right pocket you never even know your carrying it.
 
testuser69 said:
I really, really want to like the Bodyguard 38, but I can't see much advantage to it. I don't know maybe there's a marketing/customer understanding problem? Anyway, I see little or no advantage to the BG 38.

According to S&W the Bodyguard 38 is 0.64 ounces lighter than a 15 ounce Airweight. That's not really a relevant weight reduction. Why are these plastic revolvers so heavy anyway?

Integrated laser? Crimson trace units and other grip mounted lasers are easy to install on any J-frame and I have a wide selection. The laser on this revolver looks harder to activate than aftermarket units, too. No advantage there.

Ambidextrous cylinder release? No advantage to me, in fact, a mild negative. I'm right handed and would prefer a right handed cylinder release, it's also what all of my other revolvers have.

Give me a plastic j-frame with real weight reduction, say 12-13 ounces or less and MSRP in the $500 range and I'll probably buy. At the very least, you could update the sights from a tradition j-frame. Otherwise, there are more parts, accessories and customization for a traditional airweight revolver...they're also cheaper.

I've really been hoping that S&W will revamp the Bodyguard 38 soon, just like they did when the Bodyguard 380 became the M&P Bodyguard.
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My experience with my S&W® BG38 has been better than yours. Mine has a super light, crisp, trigger pull and reset. Reloading using Safariland® Comp One™ speedloaders is quite fast. The gun is highly accurate and I don't mind the top mounted cylinder release latch. As for the laser my choice is for the Crimson Trace® top activated unit that came with the gun. For me, @ a cost of $449.00, was a no brainer.
 
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