You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
A long time ruger problem
- Thread starter KEYBEAR
- Start date
4V50 Gary That Ruger was Traded and sent back to Ruger years ago . Asfor the cracks the face of the cylinder had spider web cracks all across . It never looked to be a big problem and if it was never cleaned it was fine . Ruger did replace it with a new revolver funny they could not get it apart .
Research
Keybear,
There are a lot of different anaerobic sealant products from Locktite. Have a look at their website and technical documentation for the products.
As mentioned previously, clean is critical for Locktite. Remove every trace of oil and or grease from the threads of both the fastener, and of course the threaded hole.
Typical threads are designed for 75 % engagement. In addition to "locking" the threads the proper grade of Locktite can strengthen the threaded fastener by filling in that 25% space between the threads.
Your nose is your friend when it's time to remove a screw where Loctite has been used. Esp. for firearms I use a sacrificial screwdriver bit that fits the screw very closely. Use a small torch to heat the sacrificial bit to transfer heat to the screw itself. A sweet odor will be your cue quickly switch bits and loosen the screw. Most times the hot sacrificial bit is still strong enough to turn the screw.
But then you killed a Freedom arms and a Contender....I can't even think of any handguns that are stronger than those.
Keybear,
There are a lot of different anaerobic sealant products from Locktite. Have a look at their website and technical documentation for the products.
As mentioned previously, clean is critical for Locktite. Remove every trace of oil and or grease from the threads of both the fastener, and of course the threaded hole.
Typical threads are designed for 75 % engagement. In addition to "locking" the threads the proper grade of Locktite can strengthen the threaded fastener by filling in that 25% space between the threads.
Your nose is your friend when it's time to remove a screw where Loctite has been used. Esp. for firearms I use a sacrificial screwdriver bit that fits the screw very closely. Use a small torch to heat the sacrificial bit to transfer heat to the screw itself. A sweet odor will be your cue quickly switch bits and loosen the screw. Most times the hot sacrificial bit is still strong enough to turn the screw.
But then you killed a Freedom arms and a Contender....I can't even think of any handguns that are stronger than those.
Yes I have cleaned the screw and screw holes And now use Red lock tight .
Now I just shear the screw head off.
I will add in, many cleaners are oil based (solvents) - they do not remove all the oil as they leave oil.
Lockties has some stuff, acetone works, the old Tri Chlore works (hard to find as its now environmentally safe - it still cleans but has to be dried aka Electrical Cleaner or Brake Cleaner.
Same stuff you use (tiny vial) to clean the windhiedl off to attach your rear view mirror.
Fundamentally the screws are too soft. Going to plastic regions and loosening. Probably unique so you can't get a grade 8.
Start a claim with Rugrer and have all follow up that have the problem.
A little back round . I have loved to shoot all my life started when I was very small .
Yes I have bought a lot of guns but got really into it the 1984 . In 84 I had a kidney transplant and was told by the doctor life as you have been doing it is over . That is when I really got to shooting a lot . I spent my first year after the transplant shooting and shooting every day . I shot six or seven day a week even in the winter all 44 mag mostly lead . I have been retired over ten years have a range in the back yard and use it every day . I shoot steel got tired of paper targets and shoot most all winter . Yes I have broke a lot of guns I shot the chamber out of three Thomson Center 44 Mag barrels in a year . Having tried about every Revolver in 44 Mag The Ruger is the one if I could keep it shooting . I will be 71 years old this year I still have very good eyes and will shoot until I can,t
Yes I have bought a lot of guns but got really into it the 1984 . In 84 I had a kidney transplant and was told by the doctor life as you have been doing it is over . That is when I really got to shooting a lot . I spent my first year after the transplant shooting and shooting every day . I shot six or seven day a week even in the winter all 44 mag mostly lead . I have been retired over ten years have a range in the back yard and use it every day . I shoot steel got tired of paper targets and shoot most all winter . Yes I have broke a lot of guns I shot the chamber out of three Thomson Center 44 Mag barrels in a year . Having tried about every Revolver in 44 Mag The Ruger is the one if I could keep it shooting . I will be 71 years old this year I still have very good eyes and will shoot until I can,t
I just took in another one of these today. Stainless. The hole is egg-shaped, and there is LocTite on the threads. The screws do not "come loose", they are sheared or forced out of the hole under recoil by the inertia of the ejector rod housing (depends whether the metal deforms or holds and whether the screw shears or pushes the metal out of the way). The issue is the weight of the ejector rod housing and the recoil of the 44 Mag. Older Blackhawks had aluminum ejector rod housings, so it wasn't as big of a problem.
Scorch
That is part of it but not all of it .
If you look at the housing it does not fit well at the frame .
That point need to be snug or the housing will rest on the small screw only .
That is the same problem I had with a new Freedom Arms in 44 Mag .
I sent the FA back and had a word with the owner it never came off again .
I bought the FA to shoot hot loads 240gr. with 24gr. of 296 and shot a ton of them .
That is part of it but not all of it .
If you look at the housing it does not fit well at the frame .
That point need to be snug or the housing will rest on the small screw only .
That is the same problem I had with a new Freedom Arms in 44 Mag .
I sent the FA back and had a word with the owner it never came off again .
I bought the FA to shoot hot loads 240gr. with 24gr. of 296 and shot a ton of them .