I load for a friends 7mmRM and his bullets are backing out from recoil. He stuck a bullet in the neck yesterday. New neck sized cases, 140gr Sierra BT, seated to recommendation. Have done this for many years in many 7mms with no problems. He's rough as a cobb on equipment, so I'd like to use some adhesive on the bullets. Any thoughts?
A First
- Thread starter GeauxTide
- Start date
Most bullet sealants are more a matter of sealing against moisture. A Google of "bullet sealant" will bring up a few dozen hits. I just don't know how well it will work at increasing bullet pull or neck tension if you prefer. Never had the problem with my Ruger 77 in 7mm RM and that rifle had stout recoil. I also don't know how much hold you can get away with before a potential problem. Sure you have seen older GI stuff sealant which looks like tar.
I really don't want to suggest something without knowing what may happen. Like just dip the bullet bases in red locktite.
Ron
I really don't want to suggest something without knowing what may happen. Like just dip the bullet bases in red locktite.
Ron
LeverGunFan
New member
I would try a few other ideas before using adhesive. Adhesive sounds messy, might contaminate the powder, or leave a mess in the chamber, and it's anyone's guess what it would do to maximum pressure.
It sounds like the case neck walls are on the thin side and/or the sizing die is on the large side. If you are using a bushing neck size die, change to a smaller bushing. If using the Lee collet die, get a smaller sizing stem from Lee. Or if this is a traditional neck sizing die, add a slight taper crimp in the seating step or use the Lee factory crimp die to add a crimp. All of these are controllable and repeatable; adhesive just seems too variable to me.
It sounds like the case neck walls are on the thin side and/or the sizing die is on the large side. If you are using a bushing neck size die, change to a smaller bushing. If using the Lee collet die, get a smaller sizing stem from Lee. Or if this is a traditional neck sizing die, add a slight taper crimp in the seating step or use the Lee factory crimp die to add a crimp. All of these are controllable and repeatable; adhesive just seems too variable to me.
Chipperman
New member
How much crimp are you putting on them?
arizona98tj
New member
That was my first thought too (crimp).
Looking at post #5 while I am not in the Lee FCD (Factory Crimp Die) fan club, you may want to try it. I am also assuming the problem has persisted through different lots of brass. With the right tools you could measure the neck ID and bullet OD and see what you get. Then measure the neck OD after seating a bullet. See what the numbers look like.
Ron
Ron
GT,
What did you mean by "new" neck-sized? Fired once and neck sized for the first time, or new cases not yet fire-formed, but put through neck sizing? The latter could slide further forward than the COL would normally indicate if they are shorter than book.
What is the rifle? Normally, unless it is a revolver (in which case, yikes!), bullets tend to be pushed into the case by recoil banging the front of the magazine into them, or against the next bullet in the case of the tubular Mag. Pulling definitely suggests a long seating job sticking in the throat, so I would check the case sizing as in my last paragraph. Worst case, you may want a chamber cast to compare to your loaded round.
Has he experienced the problem with factory ammo? If not, I would closely compare the ones you assemble to one of those with a bullet comparator.
What did you mean by "new" neck-sized? Fired once and neck sized for the first time, or new cases not yet fire-formed, but put through neck sizing? The latter could slide further forward than the COL would normally indicate if they are shorter than book.
What is the rifle? Normally, unless it is a revolver (in which case, yikes!), bullets tend to be pushed into the case by recoil banging the front of the magazine into them, or against the next bullet in the case of the tubular Mag. Pulling definitely suggests a long seating job sticking in the throat, so I would check the case sizing as in my last paragraph. Worst case, you may want a chamber cast to compare to your loaded round.
Has he experienced the problem with factory ammo? If not, I would closely compare the ones you assemble to one of those with a bullet comparator.
Thanks, Very Much. Brass is new Hornady, neck sized. Rifle is Remington CDL SF. Dies are Hornady Precision. Seated to manual recommended COL. I'll try to put a little crimp on them. I agree with glue residue causing problems. I've got a Hornady comparator, so I'll buy a box of factory and measure. This rifle hasn't had any factory loads through it. For the record, I used this rifle, with the same reload, for a couple of years. I put about 50 rounds through it without incident.
Stop! Your friend needs to get out the micrometer and get >0.002” neck tension on his bullets before going further.
That is loaded round neck diameter - sized neck diameter. Also, are the neck and bearing surface fully engaged?
When I hear something like this and the words neck sizing, I imagine someone sizing only 20% of the neck and sliding a bullet in it....that would be totally unstable.
Are bushing dies involved in this?
That is loaded round neck diameter - sized neck diameter. Also, are the neck and bearing surface fully engaged?
When I hear something like this and the words neck sizing, I imagine someone sizing only 20% of the neck and sliding a bullet in it....that would be totally unstable.
Are bushing dies involved in this?
ballisticxlr
New member
Cannulure and a roll crimp. That's exactly what cannulures and heavy roll crimps were invented to solve.
stinkeypete
New member
Something ain’t right, the solution isn’t glue. Find out the problem, then address it.
My first thought is “seated to recommended”. I’d seat 0.005 longer on a dummy round and see if it chambers (plunk test). I’d want to know my chamber wasn’t tighter than Hornady’s.
Next is neck tension, per posts above. I’d mic those bullets in that box (all of em) and compare to other 7mms to make sure that batch of bullets was in spec for diameter.
Once you know WHY there is a problem you can fix the problem, not just cover it up.
It’s natural to want to make stuff work but this is “goes boom” stuff.
Once confident there isn’t something major wrong, I’ve used the Lee factory crimp and it’s for sure okay for hunting rounds and might probably quickly save your loaded ammo, just run what you have through the factory die. If some cycle harder than others, you know you have a problem in your system somewhere with consistency. Since you checked the bullets you know your brass is inconsistent or your dies are... well, maybe using too much lube? I can’t imagine but you can know why.
As my old dad said, “it’s better to wonder why something is working than why it isn’t”
My first thought is “seated to recommended”. I’d seat 0.005 longer on a dummy round and see if it chambers (plunk test). I’d want to know my chamber wasn’t tighter than Hornady’s.
Next is neck tension, per posts above. I’d mic those bullets in that box (all of em) and compare to other 7mms to make sure that batch of bullets was in spec for diameter.
Once you know WHY there is a problem you can fix the problem, not just cover it up.
It’s natural to want to make stuff work but this is “goes boom” stuff.
Once confident there isn’t something major wrong, I’ve used the Lee factory crimp and it’s for sure okay for hunting rounds and might probably quickly save your loaded ammo, just run what you have through the factory die. If some cycle harder than others, you know you have a problem in your system somewhere with consistency. Since you checked the bullets you know your brass is inconsistent or your dies are... well, maybe using too much lube? I can’t imagine but you can know why.
As my old dad said, “it’s better to wonder why something is working than why it isn’t”