9mm Lead Bullet Question

robhic,

It may depend on the particular bullet.

If the bullet does not fall freely into the chamber (Needs foreward assist) then you have to seat it deeper. Don't worry too much of the bullet manufacturers data.
I found even with an caliper measurements are not that precise. As well each case may have another length. No case is made exactly like the other. As well FMJ can vary considerably in length.
So data is an Approximation at most.

Don't forget the origins of firearms: each rifle came once with it's own mold. So no firearm is exactly like the other.

Just make sure the powder does not get compressed. Otherwise seating the bullet right onto the powder does not hurt.

When you seat the bullet deeper, you have to reduce powder. With lead bullets you have to seat deeper most likely.
 
robhic

They will not jam nor fail in any circumstances loaded as I described it.

If you leave 'em to Long the gun will not go into battery.

Overpressure you can avoid by working your powder Charge (load) up to were the pistol cycles reliably. Passing a bit that Point and you should stay within the 9mm Lugers pressure range.
 
So I took 5 rounds and loaded them in a Glock G19 magazine to hand cycle. Looked a bit short in the mag (1.050") and made me a bit concerned if jamming on the feed ramp might be an issue. But hand cycled twice without issue. Might full power/speed of firing cause feed ramp issue?
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As long as you loaded conservatively, I.e. below max charge with a good bit of cushion on top, I say test fire it. If you cycle by hand and they run through you're probably fine. Also if you don't notice hard extraction of the live round when cycling by hand you may can seat the bullet a little longer if you wish.
 
As long as you loaded conservatively, I.e. below max charge with a good bit of cushion on top, I say test fire it. If you cycle by hand and they run through you're probably fine. Also if you don't notice hard extraction of the live round when cycling by hand you may can seat the bullet a little longer if you wish.
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Since I'm still in the learning process, I've loaded all at the lowest possible figure shown in my Lyman manual or a Load Book. I'm doing that with the different powders on hand before ramping up the load. After I see what powder(s) I prefer then maybe I'll start to work up with one of those. Most reloading I'm doing is for range use at this time so no big deal. Thanks.
 
I am surprised this has not been emphasized.

http://www.gunnews.com/myth-polygonal-barrels/


Polygonal rifling will generally do fine with hard cast lead (you want to check carefully after a few rounds but it can be ok)

Soft cast is the issue and it sounds like yours are very soft.

Having helped a person clean the lead out of a pistol barrel after some ill advised removal of lubrication from a lead bullet, it is not any fun.
 
Per Ramshot:
"SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH “COL”
It is important to note that the SAAMI “COL” values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only.
The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination.
This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as
1) magazine length (space),
2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel,
3) ogive or profile of the projectile and
4) position of cannelure or crimp groove.
• Always begin loading at the minimum ‘Start Load.’"

Your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel (chamber and throat dimensions) and your gun (feed ramp) and your magazine (COL that fits magazine and when the magazine lips release the round for feeding) and the PARTICULAR bullet you are using. What worked in a pressure barrel or the lab's gun or in my gun has very little to do with what will work best in your gun.
Take the barrel out of the gun. Create two inert dummy rounds (no powder or primer) at max COL and remove enough case mouth flare for rounds to chamber (you can achieve this by using a sized case—expand-and-flare it, and remove the flare just until the case "plunks" in the barrel).
Drop the inert rounds in and decrease the COL until they chamber completely. This will be your "max" effective COL. I prefer to have the case head flush with the barrel hood. After this, place the inert rounds in the magazine and be sure they fit the magazine and feed and chamber.
You can also do this for any chambering problems you have. Remove the barrel and drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth.
Remove and inspect the round:
1) scratches on bullet--COL is too long
2) scratches on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp
3) scratches just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case
4) scratches on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit
5) scratches on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.
 
I am surprised this has not been emphasized.

http://www.gunnews.com/myth-polygonal-barrels/


Polygonal rifling will generally do fine with hard cast lead (you want to check carefully after a few rounds but it can be ok)

Soft cast is the issue and it sounds like yours are very soft.

Having helped a person clean the lead out of a pistol barrel after some ill advised removal of lubrication from a lead bullet, it is not any fun.
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Very interesting, thanks for that URL. I've not shot lead through a Glock before due to the warnings in the manual. I've read/heard some who did without problem but as I had no need for lead ammo, I never tried it. Why bother?

Now I want just to test a couple rounds to see how they perform and not use a steady diet. That and the fact I clean after every use plus use EEZOX, a dry cleaner that leaves a film preventing carbon and I'd assume a lead buildup, also, I expect no problems. I had an issue with a .22 that leaded up the barrel using Remington "Thunderbolts" ammo.

Keyholing caused me to check and the barrel was coated with lead! It came out during cleaning (no easy task!) in little chunks. NO MORE THUNDERBOLTS! But the EEZOX does help a great deal (except in that case...) to prevent all buildups and is a great cleaner and rust inhibitor, too. Thanks for that link again!
 
noylj: Wow! Thanks for that comprehensive posting. That was REALLY full of good information! I think I'll copy, print out and save that one in my manual! I appreciate all that information and your time. Reading replies here I have to say I learn something EVERY day I read this forum. Glad I found you guys!!!
 
POST FIRING REPORT: My #1 concern, OAL (1.050"), turned out to be totally unfounded. I shot all 10 of my 9mm 115gr LFNHP rounds and, if anything, they weren't that powerful at all. They were loaded at the lowest grain recommended and they could have stood a bit more kick, IMO. So no harm, no foul with that (seemingly) short OAL.

Using the Glock, I shot the lead rounds first. Then I followed up with some jacketed rounds figuring that might help clean things up a bit. Musta worked because when I got home to clean the barrel looked OK. I know it was only 10 rounds, but still....

I think I'll make some more with a little higher load. I'll also leave the Glock out of this. Hopefully the next ones will shoot a bit better and less smoke. Thanks to all who added to the info in this thread!
 
Did you cycle a mag through by running the slide manually?
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Yes, as per post #19 when I was still sweating the (seemingly) short OAL, I took 5 rounds and cycled them through,twice, and they worked fine. (Although they DID look short in the mag and jamming the hollow point on the feed ramp gave me concern). No jamming so I did all 10 and still cycled fine.

At the range my main concern was that darn short (1.050") OAL being too short. Then the feed ramp was 2nd. But the OAL wasn't too short and the rounds weren't very "snappy" at all. Feed ramp didn't cause trouble but next time I'm not gonna use my Glock and load just a bit hotter to see how that goes.
 
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