9mm break in ammo?
- Thread starter TomADC
- Start date
g.willikers
New member
Is your pistol doing something wrong?
Never had a pistol that needed "breaking in" so far.
Although one did the opposite, worked great at first and slowly deteriorated with use.
If yours needs some shooting to work as it should, any ammo will do as long as it operates the gun.
On the other hand, a bunch of dry firing and running the empty gun manually would probably do as well.
If there is a problem to start, be sure to thoroughly clean it, as new guns can be very dirty and either not lubed or overly lubed.
Never had a pistol that needed "breaking in" so far.
Although one did the opposite, worked great at first and slowly deteriorated with use.
If yours needs some shooting to work as it should, any ammo will do as long as it operates the gun.
On the other hand, a bunch of dry firing and running the empty gun manually would probably do as well.
If there is a problem to start, be sure to thoroughly clean it, as new guns can be very dirty and either not lubed or overly lubed.
This has come up on other forums as well. There is sort of a misnomer that cartridges with lighter weight bullets can't be as powerful as those with heavier weight bullets. If the powder amount is adjusted accordingly they can, although there are limitations to that at a point.
Often one of the reasons people assume light weight bullets mean weak ammo that might not cycle a slide properly is that the cheapest of ammo does use lighter weight bullets. The reason that ammo is problematic however has more to do with looser QC and/or less of a powder charge (all measures to keep down cost). In my experience if a pistol won't cycle brass cased ammunition then there may well be problems with the pistol itself.
Brands that I have found to work reasonably well include Fiocchi, Blazer Brass, American Eagle, Federal Champion, Winchester (as of late), and Sellier and Bellot. In short, worry about the manufacturer and less about the bullet weight when it comes to function.
Often one of the reasons people assume light weight bullets mean weak ammo that might not cycle a slide properly is that the cheapest of ammo does use lighter weight bullets. The reason that ammo is problematic however has more to do with looser QC and/or less of a powder charge (all measures to keep down cost). In my experience if a pistol won't cycle brass cased ammunition then there may well be problems with the pistol itself.
Brands that I have found to work reasonably well include Fiocchi, Blazer Brass, American Eagle, Federal Champion, Winchester (as of late), and Sellier and Bellot. In short, worry about the manufacturer and less about the bullet weight when it comes to function.
9x18_Walther
New member
Unless there is a QC problem with the ammunition, I would expect 100% of ammunition to function properly in a new handgun.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure a lot of QC issues are resolved on pistols by having repeated use wear contact points, but picking an ammunition isn't really a top concern.
Pick what is the cheapest and go with it.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure a lot of QC issues are resolved on pistols by having repeated use wear contact points, but picking an ammunition isn't really a top concern.
Pick what is the cheapest and go with it.
I asked because these pistols are NIB never shot, in the old days (I'm old) I'd just load them up and bang away clean and be ready for use.
But it seems the more I read these forums the more I've seen people and breaking in their new pistols, figured maybe I could learn something new?
But it seems the more I read these forums the more I've seen people and breaking in their new pistols, figured maybe I could learn something new?
9x18_Walther
New member
Some may argue, but a combat pistol IMHO should not need to be broken in.
A custom 1911? Sure.
A custom 1911? Sure.
9x18_Walther
New member
Everyone on here is probably going to have a different opinion on this subject. I'm sure others will respond and chime in as well.
New guns do occasionally have problems from the factory. Before I'd ever trust a handgun, I would want to put a couple hundred rounds through it.
No problems after a few hundred? You're usually good to go.
One or two problems? Whether or not you would call this a "break-in period", I'd put a few more hundred rounds and see if the problem continues. If it disappears, you probably are good to go.
A problem every few rounds? Regardless of how new the gun is, I'd call this a problem. If it disappears after a few hundred rounds, I'd still be worried about the QC of other parts.
rt11002003
New member
I think most of what needs to be said as been. Clean and lubricate new weapons before use. Research ammo manufacturers for the caliber needed, some don't do as good a job as others. A new custom gun might need some break in, read and heed the manual. I'm a firm believer in running at least a 100 rounds of a company's ammo thru a gun without any failures before depending on them, the gun and the ammo.
I don't think there is any advantage of using heavier weight 9mm ammo vs 115 grain ammo, to get acquainted with a new 9mm. I actually prefer to shoot the cheap dirty stuff through a new gun the first few times out to make sure it it not picky with ammo.
Some of the higher end 1911's with really tight tolerances need maybe 500 to 1000 rounds to get all the moving parts settled in & working together, but generally I don't think a 9mm service pistol needs a break-in period.
Some of the higher end 1911's with really tight tolerances need maybe 500 to 1000 rounds to get all the moving parts settled in & working together, but generally I don't think a 9mm service pistol needs a break-in period.
Dreaming100Straight
New member
All I know is that Sig tells you to shoot 125 gr ammo for the first 200 rounds.
g.willikers
New member
Do ya' suppose the idea of a couple hundred rounds break in period was invented by the ammo manufacturers?
bedbugbilly
New member
I'm certainly not expert and all I have are two 9mm - a SR9 and a Shield. Both were purchased new and both have only been fed my lead cast reloads.
As far as "break in" bullet weight . . I don't see where one weight is any different than another as far as "breaking in" a new pistol. I cast and reload 115 gr, 121 gr and 147 grain. For different bullet weights you use different powder grain weights falling within the minimum and maximum loading data.
The important thing is that the round cycles the pistol. Given the use of one powder . . . say Bulls Eye . . . the 147 grain bullet requires less grain weight of powder than the lighter weight 115 or 121 grain bullets. In other words, a lighter weight bullet requires more powder to correctly cycle the pistol while a heavier weight bullet requires less grain weight of powder. Commercial ammo is no different regardless of if the bullet is cast, FMJ, etc.
As far as reloads, you have to work your load up for your individual pistol as to what works best as far as cycling and POI as compared to POA.
Both of my pistols were cleaned and lubed when I got them home and then I just shot them. They worked fine and both eat the three bullet weights I'm reloading with.
As far as "break in" goes, I'd be more concerned on the mating parts seating in together and whether or not the ammo fed and ejected properly. Some pistols can be finicky as far as feeding and bullet profile design. Some like RN while others like SWC . . and some like both. Those are the things you should be concerned with and discovering while you are "breaking in" a pistol and finding out just what kind of ammo (if store bought) they like.
As far as "break in" bullet weight . . I don't see where one weight is any different than another as far as "breaking in" a new pistol. I cast and reload 115 gr, 121 gr and 147 grain. For different bullet weights you use different powder grain weights falling within the minimum and maximum loading data.
The important thing is that the round cycles the pistol. Given the use of one powder . . . say Bulls Eye . . . the 147 grain bullet requires less grain weight of powder than the lighter weight 115 or 121 grain bullets. In other words, a lighter weight bullet requires more powder to correctly cycle the pistol while a heavier weight bullet requires less grain weight of powder. Commercial ammo is no different regardless of if the bullet is cast, FMJ, etc.
As far as reloads, you have to work your load up for your individual pistol as to what works best as far as cycling and POI as compared to POA.
Both of my pistols were cleaned and lubed when I got them home and then I just shot them. They worked fine and both eat the three bullet weights I'm reloading with.
As far as "break in" goes, I'd be more concerned on the mating parts seating in together and whether or not the ammo fed and ejected properly. Some pistols can be finicky as far as feeding and bullet profile design. Some like RN while others like SWC . . and some like both. Those are the things you should be concerned with and discovering while you are "breaking in" a pistol and finding out just what kind of ammo (if store bought) they like.
Cheapshooter
New member
That might be the problem in itself!
Although I have heard some manufacturers mention "break in" I have yet to buy a new pistol that needed it. Even my Kahr CM9 that is said to need a 200 round break in has been 100% reliable from the first round.
I do however run at least 100 rounds of range ammo, then a couple boxes, say 40-50 rounds each of my candidates for carry ammo as a "shake down". Not necessarily a break in. If it functions OK in your gun, any type of range ammo will provide your break in if that's what you want to call it. But if it is for carry, or HD, make sure your chosen defense loads are 100% reliable.
sigarms228
New member
Probably not but I hear this recommendation for some HKs such as the P30L for the first couple hundred rounds.
However I am wondering if the problem is more that owners are using fairly low powered ammo and having problems. A LOT of shooters seem to use Federal Champion it typically is the cheapest ammo that Walmart sells and in 9MM it is probably the lowest power factor 9MM 115 grammo you can commonly purchase. Typically it works fine but it appears in some cases with new pistols it might not.
Myself I have never had a problem with 9MM 115 gr in any of my new pistols but typically I use Federal American Eagle or Speer Lawman.
Of course it makes sense if one is having problems with a new pistol to try different ammo and IMO ideally a quality factory made brass cased ammo with decent power factor.
Here is info supposedly from a Glock armorer manual somewhere on power factor ratings of popular 9MM ammo. I believe these numbers were calculated from manufacturer's published data at the time in year 2000 and may not all still be relevant/accurate. Size of barrel manufacturer uses to measure velocity is typically not available.
Power factor is calculated by the formula: bullet weight times velocity divided by 1000
http://www.goldismoney2.com/archive/index.php/t-8860.html?
Brand Weight Velocity Power Factor
Fiocchi 124 1180 146.32
Fiocchi 147 1000 147.00
Fiocchi 158 940 148.52
Am Eagle 147 1000 147.00
Win RA9124N NATO 124 1185 146.94
RWS Sport FMJ 124 1181 146.44
S&B 124 1181 146.44
Rem. Express 147 990 145.53
Magtech 147 990 145.53
UMC 147 990 145.53
Lawman 147 985 144.80
Prvi Partizan 147 984 144.65
S&B 115 1250 143.75
Fiocchi 115 1250 143.75
Am Eagle 124 1150 142.60
Glock Minimum* 124 1148 142.35
Win USA 124 1140 141.36
Blazer 147 950 139.65
Lawman 115 1200 138.00
PMC Bronze 124 1110 137.64
Magtech 124 1109 137.52
Win USA 115 1190 136.85
Rem. Express 124 1100 136.40
UMC 124 1100 136.40
Am Eagle 115 1180 135.70
Glock Minimum* 115 1180 135.70
Blazer 124 1090 135.16
Blazer Brass 124 1090 135.16
Lawman 124 1090 135.16
Cor-Bon match 147 900 132.30
My Reloads 147 900 132.30
PMC Bronze 115 1150 132.25
Prvi Partizan 115 1148 132.02
Blazer 115 1145 131.68
Blazer Brass 115 1145 131.68
Rem. Express 115 1135 130.53
Magtech 115 1135 130.53
UMC 115 1135 130.53
Federal Champ 115 1125 129.38
*2000 Glock Armorer's manual
However I am wondering if the problem is more that owners are using fairly low powered ammo and having problems. A LOT of shooters seem to use Federal Champion it typically is the cheapest ammo that Walmart sells and in 9MM it is probably the lowest power factor 9MM 115 grammo you can commonly purchase. Typically it works fine but it appears in some cases with new pistols it might not.
Myself I have never had a problem with 9MM 115 gr in any of my new pistols but typically I use Federal American Eagle or Speer Lawman.
Of course it makes sense if one is having problems with a new pistol to try different ammo and IMO ideally a quality factory made brass cased ammo with decent power factor.
Here is info supposedly from a Glock armorer manual somewhere on power factor ratings of popular 9MM ammo. I believe these numbers were calculated from manufacturer's published data at the time in year 2000 and may not all still be relevant/accurate. Size of barrel manufacturer uses to measure velocity is typically not available.
Power factor is calculated by the formula: bullet weight times velocity divided by 1000
http://www.goldismoney2.com/archive/index.php/t-8860.html?
Brand Weight Velocity Power Factor
Fiocchi 124 1180 146.32
Fiocchi 147 1000 147.00
Fiocchi 158 940 148.52
Am Eagle 147 1000 147.00
Win RA9124N NATO 124 1185 146.94
RWS Sport FMJ 124 1181 146.44
S&B 124 1181 146.44
Rem. Express 147 990 145.53
Magtech 147 990 145.53
UMC 147 990 145.53
Lawman 147 985 144.80
Prvi Partizan 147 984 144.65
S&B 115 1250 143.75
Fiocchi 115 1250 143.75
Am Eagle 124 1150 142.60
Glock Minimum* 124 1148 142.35
Win USA 124 1140 141.36
Blazer 147 950 139.65
Lawman 115 1200 138.00
PMC Bronze 124 1110 137.64
Magtech 124 1109 137.52
Win USA 115 1190 136.85
Rem. Express 124 1100 136.40
UMC 124 1100 136.40
Am Eagle 115 1180 135.70
Glock Minimum* 115 1180 135.70
Blazer 124 1090 135.16
Blazer Brass 124 1090 135.16
Lawman 124 1090 135.16
Cor-Bon match 147 900 132.30
My Reloads 147 900 132.30
PMC Bronze 115 1150 132.25
Prvi Partizan 115 1148 132.02
Blazer 115 1145 131.68
Blazer Brass 115 1145 131.68
Rem. Express 115 1135 130.53
Magtech 115 1135 130.53
UMC 115 1135 130.53
Federal Champ 115 1125 129.38
*2000 Glock Armorer's manual
Last edited:
Cheapshooter said:
This.
Some firearms reccomend a break in period, others do not. Personally, I like to run 200 rounds, and I like to use a variety of ammos to see what my gun likes or doesn't. For example, when I broke out my new LC9s, I shot some WWB 9mm and some oddball brand 9mm NATO. The WWB ran like a top, and the Nato rounds had 2 failures to feed. The more data you have on your gun the better.
I've had my HK P30 (V3) 9mm for almost a year and about 4K rounds downrange. This gun shoots all the 9mm factory ammo beautifully. One of the most reliable & accurate autopistols I've owned. And that "V3" DA trigger pull is fine after I had the gun worked on.
You don't have to break it in, and you can't break it otherwise, I've tried! Welcome & Good Luck with the pistol!