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9 mm dies
- Thread starter Danb6177
- Start date
stuckinthe60s
New member
>>>>>Yes for sure I would but I would not trust myself just yet to use casings from an unknown source.<<<<<<
dans a smart guy. he will go far reloading.
kudos to you.
you keep up that policy of knowing the brass youre reloading and itll save you a lot of extra effort correcting errors.
dans a smart guy. he will go far reloading.
kudos to you.
you keep up that policy of knowing the brass youre reloading and itll save you a lot of extra effort correcting errors.
DAN:
1. 9mm range pick-up cases will be just fine down the road when you feel
more comfortable. Collect all those new-looking) cases you find on the range
floor as you go in a coffee can/throw them in a tumbler to clean. You'll be
glad you did.
2. You don't "crimp" 9mm, so much as just straighten out the case/mouth flare
from when you expanded. Look at https://i0.wp.com/www.theballisticassistant.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/9mm-Luger.jpg
to see the mouth diameter when done.
3. Seat the bullet so it "plunks" in the barrel mouth/chamber/even with the barrel extension
on top. No big deal.
.
1. 9mm range pick-up cases will be just fine down the road when you feel
more comfortable. Collect all those new-looking) cases you find on the range
floor as you go in a coffee can/throw them in a tumbler to clean. You'll be
glad you did.
2. You don't "crimp" 9mm, so much as just straighten out the case/mouth flare
from when you expanded. Look at https://i0.wp.com/www.theballisticassistant.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/9mm-Luger.jpg
to see the mouth diameter when done.
3. Seat the bullet so it "plunks" in the barrel mouth/chamber/even with the barrel extension
on top. No big deal.
.
Its Generally a good idea to put a light to moderate crimp on all rounds intended for a semi auto firearm.Still reading about crimping and I understand there are different kinds of crimping. But do all shells need crimp
Of some kind?
Roll crimps will generally only be used on bullets with callelures
Taper crimps are generally used on smooth sided bullets.
For your specific use. Generally when loading 9mm you flare the mouth just a little to help smoothly seat the bullet and prevent damaging the bullet or case if something snags. The crimp straightens the case back out. You can also go beyond straightening the flare out and put on a crimp. I would personally reccomended a light crimp.
Aguila Blanca
Staff
That's odd. I don't know how many thousands of rounds (all handgun, miostly .45 ACP and 9mm Luger) I've loaded using Lee dies and their "lousy" lock rings, and I've never had a problem with a die going out of adjustments.rc said:lee equipment has lousy lock rings that won't stay adjusted
I've bought some of the cross-bolt lock rings for used die sets I picked up that were missing the lock rings. They're very serviceable.Unclenick said:The Lee dies actually are usually quite good from a functional-but-not-pretty standpoint. Some hate their lock rings and some love them, but the haters have an easy out. Lyman sells their cross-bolt lock rings (the split type, but my favorite kind since they can't score a die thread) separately. Currently on sale at Midsouth for about $4.49.
The new lee lock rings are grooved, takes a plastic tool that you can hardly grab onto to tighten them down. The old ones that were a regular nut and you could put an adjustable wrench on were pretty decent, except they moved every time you swapped dies. I just swap all my lock rings out for Hornadys now, they lock on the die so you never lose your adjustment, and you can put a wrench on them.That's odd. I don't know how many thousands of rounds (all handgun, miostly .45 ACP and 9mm Luger) I've loaded using Lee dies and their "lousy" lock rings, and I've never had a problem with a die going out of adjustments.
I've bought some of the cross-bolt lock rings for used die sets I picked up that were missing the lock rings. They're very serviceable.
Thanks for that. I’ve seen some go-no-go gauges as well. But that plunk makes sense.DAN:
1. 9mm range pick-up cases will be just fine down the road when you feel
more comfortable. Collect all those new-looking) cases you find on the range
floor as you go in a coffee can/throw them in a tumbler to clean. You'll be
glad you did.
2. You don't "crimp" 9mm, so much as just straighten out the case/mouth flare
from when you expanded. Look at https://i0.wp.com/www.theballisticassistant.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/9mm-Luger.jpg
to see the mouth diameter when done.
3. Seat the bullet so it "plunks" in the barrel mouth/chamber/even with the barrel extension
on top. No big deal.
.
Thanks for advice. Lemme ask. Does factory ammo have a crimp? I ask because I have issues with my 40 baby eagle jamming. Bullets won’t go to battery. I’ve changed out recoil spring and mags and tried a few different types shell. It’s an older pistol and I bought it used. Wonder if reload ammo would be betterIts Generally a good idea to put a light to moderate crimp on all rounds intended for a semi auto firearm.
Roll crimps will generally only be used on bullets with callelures
Taper crimps are generally used on smooth sided bullets.
For your specific use. Generally when loading 9mm you flare the mouth just a little to help smoothly seat the bullet and prevent damaging the bullet or case if something snags. The crimp straightens the case back out. You can also go beyond straightening the flare out and put on a crimp. I would personally reccomended a light crimp.
Dan6177 said:Does factory ammo have a crimp? I ask because I have issues with my 40 baby eagle jamming. Bullets won’t go to battery. I’ve changed out recoil spring and mags and tried a few different types shell.
Most factory ammo uses jacketed bullets, for which the friction between the brass case and the bullet is usually an adequate grip, so you typically see just straight sides on the case of commercial rounds or a slight taper crimp. With lubricated lead or other soft bullets, you often find you can push the bullets deeper into the case with your thumb if you try to rely on simple friction, so a taper crimp that puts a little bite into the bullet is needed to prevent that.
For problematic feeding, you may need to take the gun to a gunsmith to have that addressed. Some offer a "reliability package" for which they polish and fit all parts where needed to accomplish that. I do my own work on 1911s, and mine will feed semi-wadcutters and even empty cases without a problem, but it didn't come from the factory able to feed either without hangups.
Jim Watson
New member
Does factory ammo have a crimp? I ask because I have issues with my 40 baby eagle jamming. Bullets won’t go to battery. I’ve changed out recoil spring and mags and tried a few different types shell. It’s an older pistol and I bought it used. Wonder if reload ammo would be better
Will factory loads chamber in the barrel clean and out of the gun? If not, you might need to have the chamber reamed to correct size. If they will, it is a feeding problem.
A factory load with a jacketed bullet doesn't particularly need a crimp. The brass is new, springy, and tight on the bullet, the brass and the jacket are clean with a lot of dry metal friction.
Yeah sounds like i need to take it in for a check up. And thanks for explaining the crimping. I understand it better now.Most factory ammo uses jacketed bullets, for which the friction between the brass case and the bullet is usually an adequate grip, so you typically see just straight sides on the case of commercial rounds or a slight taper crimp. With lubricated lead or other soft bullets, you often find you can push the bullets deeper into the case with your thumb if you try to rely on simple friction, so a taper crimp that puts a little bite into the bullet is needed to prevent that.
For problematic feeding, you may need to take the gun to a gunsmith to have that addressed. Some offer a "reliability package" for which they polish and fit all parts where needed to accomplish that. I do my own work on 1911s, and mine will feed semi-wadcutters and even empty cases without a problem, but it didn't come from the factory able to feed either without hangups.
The gun shoots fine once rounds go to battery, but what usually happens is 2 shots or 3 fire normal then next one gets stuck in ejector. Then i drop mag and get the round out and then i put it away.Will factory loads chamber in the barrel clean and out of the gun? If not, you might need to have the chamber reamed to correct size. If they will, it is a feeding problem.
A factory load with a jacketed bullet doesn't particularly need a crimp. The brass is new, springy, and tight on the bullet, the brass and the jacket are clean with a lot of dry metal friction.
When i bought 2 new mags for it they both ran through fine with no issues one time each. So i reloaded them and then jammed again like stated above. So yeah im a bit lost.
This was with PMC bronze ammo
jetinteriorguy
New member
Both the 9mm and .38sp have their pluses and minuses. Between the two I’d suggest.38sp for a first time loader. The biggest negative with .38sp is use a fairly bulky powder to help avoid a possible double charge, something like HP38/Win231 which are the same powder marketed by different companies.