7.62 vs 308W

the WCC 10's numbers were impressive, I might just have to buy a couple of hundred rounds to play with. Might turn a 100 of them into .260 Rems if I do.
 
I have some charts and tables on this topic myself, but nothing to add that hasn't been covered already.
All I can do is answer in the affirmative on just about everything said about the difference.

My addition to this post is on longevity. I shoot all my .308 out of an AR-10 and M40A1. I use lake city in my auto loader and in my bolt gun. I load them hot, at, near, and sometimes above MAP if the groups are tight (for some reason my AR-10 likes hot 175 gr smk loafs.).

What I have found is that the primer pockets on LC Brass do not open up like they do in win/fed/rem and even lapua Brass. In my AR-10, I anneal every 4th load and by the 8th load the cases are too chewed up. In my bolt action I have some lake City that is on its 14th load where commercial brass had loose pockets between the 6th and 8th load.
 
In my humble opinion, the only better deal than pulled M80 brass (unfired) is pulled M118LR (unfired) brass. When I buy once fired I have to spend a lot of time on the initial processing of annealing, resizing, decrimping, but once that's done it is very good brass. For semi-auto rifles, the M80 brass is the best way to feed it, at least for me.

Jimro
 
In my humble opinion, the only better deal than pulled M80 brass (unfired) is pulled M118LR (unfired) brass.
How would one know the difference from M80 to M118LR brass? Is their a different head stamp mark? unstaked primer? Just asking, incase I come across some. Both are LC brass?
 
How would one know the difference from M80 to M118LR brass? Is their a different head stamp mark? unstaked primer? Just asking, incase I come across some. Both are LC brass?

Yes, the headstamp will reflect LR for example LC 07 LR.

Ron
 
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