686 or 686+?

Maybe it is just me.
But the action seems more "choppy".
I don't know how to explain it.
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Oh no, it's not just you -- unless it's just YOU and ME.

My buddy has the 686+, I have the 686-3. A big part of the difference could simply be that his is a current generation Smith & Wesson made these days and mine was made in '88 or '89. I will not be the one to take this conversation in this direction -- but if anyone knows the reference "**** in the punchbowl", it applies MUCH in this conversation.

As for the discussion between which cylinder is stronger due to the location of the cylinder stop notches... I can see your wager and I call -- and raise you with the mass of metal between cylinders. I suppose unless & until we find someone that has blown up some 686 & 686+ cylinders, it's much more of an opinion kinda thing.

I will say that S&W isn't likely to send out a design that is weak or dangerous, Japle's experience notwithstanding. :eek:
 
I guess weirdness loves company so it must be of some comfort to you to know that there's at least two weirdos out there. :D
 
"I know what's on your mind, punk, did I fire five shots or six. Well, do you feel lucky, punk?"

Rate that line for a six shot revolver or a seven shot revolver. :)

I prefer the seven shooters.
 
Both

I have 3 686-6 2 are the + and one is the 686. I fine all three are great shooters accurate with a smooth 4 1/2 pound trigger pull with a smooth cylinder rotation. When new like most the trigger was rough. but after 200-300 rounds and some dry fire they smoothed out very nicely. with the 7 shot I go through ammo 1/7 faster.
 
If you plan to some day compete with a revolver, I suggest moving up to the N-Frame 627, 8 shot, that uses moon clips. Reloads are fewer and quicker.

If you are set on the 686, then I doubt you will be disappointed with either the 6 shot, or the 7 shot. I bought a 4" 6 shot and never regretted not buying the 7 shot. It is a nice revolver and one I think everyone ought own at least one of. I sold it a few years after I bought the 627 and it was a hard thing to do even after I was totally sold on the 627.
 
686P 2-1/2 inch Bbl:

686P25BianchiBlackWidow.jpg


686P Mountain Gun 4-inch Bbl:

IMGP0083-1RIGHT.jpg
 
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If you plan to some day compete with a revolver, I suggest moving up to the N-Frame 627, 8 shot, that uses moon clips. Reloads are fewer and quicker.
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If you plan on competing someday, I suggest finding out which competitions are held in your area, deciding which interest you, then reading the relevant rulebook(s). A moonclipped 8-shot 627, for example, would be good for ICORE Limited and Steel Challenge, but not IDPA or USPSA.

As far as the 686 as a match gun, I can't of any gun game where a 7-shot 686+ would be the better option, so I'd opt for the 6-shot 686. If you're going to have a gunsmith tune it anyway, get the standard 686. If not, consider the 686SSR.

Yours truly at this year's IDPA Nationals, ejecting 6 (not 7 :cool:) cases from my 686:
686reload2012Nats.jpg
 
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More is always better. It's not like he is comparing a Taurus to a S&W. Get the plus. The extra round might make a big difference for the same reason most plus 1 their auto.
 
I prefer one handed loading with a speed loader, ala Safariland or SLVariant, so I don't like or use the HKS line of speed loaders at all. Safariland doesn't make 7-shot loaders and the 7-shot Variant has been back ordered for months (if not a year by now). For this reason the only 7 shot L-frames I find acceptable are those cut for use with moon clips. I have two of them so modified and find then great for home and personal defense, when the extra round could possibly make a great deal of difference. Other wise the other L-frames are all 6 shot and I don't feel un-armed in any way with them or their "limited" capacity. YMMV!

Dave
 
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