642 Airweight Finish flaking?
- Thread starter Scout
- Start date
Go to the S&W website under the Support and FAQ section. They address cleaning and lubrication issues.
IIRC correctly they used to recommend Hoppes Elite, and specifically said not to use any products that contain ammonia.
They now promote their own line of products, which are some existing product private labled for them I assume?
I have a 642-2 that doesn't see much carry (wear and tear) and it still looks good. The flaking is aesthetic only and is a clear cote over the powder coated or painted finish. The comment on it being painted, is that true?
What is the paint process?
I have never gotten a straight answer as to what the finish actually is on a 642-2 and I have done at least 160 minutes of research on the Internet and many Forums.
IIRC correctly they used to recommend Hoppes Elite, and specifically said not to use any products that contain ammonia.
They now promote their own line of products, which are some existing product private labled for them I assume?
I have a 642-2 that doesn't see much carry (wear and tear) and it still looks good. The flaking is aesthetic only and is a clear cote over the powder coated or painted finish. The comment on it being painted, is that true?
What is the paint process?
I have never gotten a straight answer as to what the finish actually is on a 642-2 and I have done at least 160 minutes of research on the Internet and many Forums.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Sorry I'm wasting you guys' bandwidth.
I like S&W revolvers., but the newer ones are cheapened.
Now, so I don't waste bandwidth- anodizing is a very hard aluminum oxide surface. It can be dyed any color, or left natural. Anodizing is produced using electric current and acid compounds. It holds up fairly well, considering the aluminum beneath the surface treatment is soft.
The gun paints (clearcoat, etc.) are still paint. They are much softer than anodizing-probably softer than the underlying aluminum. Paint, IMO, is for the hobbyist, not manufacturers-though it seems this trend is expanding.
I like S&W revolvers., but the newer ones are cheapened.
Now, so I don't waste bandwidth- anodizing is a very hard aluminum oxide surface. It can be dyed any color, or left natural. Anodizing is produced using electric current and acid compounds. It holds up fairly well, considering the aluminum beneath the surface treatment is soft.
The gun paints (clearcoat, etc.) are still paint. They are much softer than anodizing-probably softer than the underlying aluminum. Paint, IMO, is for the hobbyist, not manufacturers-though it seems this trend is expanding.
You are not wasting anything, Bill DeShivs
The only waste I saw was the poster who challenged you about it. Forums are just that. Discussion arenas. When I looked at the rules I did not see any that said we had to agree with anyone else's opinion. I don't care much for the newer S&Ws myself. My five screws are the top of my collection . But that doesn't stop my opinion from being of possible use. I do try to stay abreast of the current crop of firearms from every maker. If S&W ever grows a brain and goes back to the old way of making them I'll buy some then. I don't like the idea of an $1100.00 revolver losing its' finish to Hoppes #9.
The only waste I saw was the poster who challenged you about it. Forums are just that. Discussion arenas. When I looked at the rules I did not see any that said we had to agree with anyone else's opinion. I don't care much for the newer S&Ws myself. My five screws are the top of my collection . But that doesn't stop my opinion from being of possible use. I do try to stay abreast of the current crop of firearms from every maker. If S&W ever grows a brain and goes back to the old way of making them I'll buy some then. I don't like the idea of an $1100.00 revolver losing its' finish to Hoppes #9.
I have a used 642 I bought four years ago that had the flaking clearcoat problem, which I made worse by trying to sand under the grip 
It isn't so much how the gun looks, it's that it lets the moisture get in and mess things up. I called S&W and they sent me a prepaid Fedex label. I sent the pistol in with a brief note and got it back three weeks later looking like new, for free.
It isn't so much how the gun looks, it's that it lets the moisture get in and mess things up. I called S&W and they sent me a prepaid Fedex label. I sent the pistol in with a brief note and got it back three weeks later looking like new, for free.
Just because I want to give S&W the benefit of the doubt, is there a chance that these aluminum frames are anodized prior to the addition of whatever coating is flaking off? I can't see S&W skipping a step that important and relatively inexpensive.
If whatever cheap chinese mfg. made the .50 cent carabiner on my key chain can anodize that, then I have to believe that the fine american institution of Smith and Wesson is not negligently removing this from their manufacturing process.
If whatever cheap chinese mfg. made the .50 cent carabiner on my key chain can anodize that, then I have to believe that the fine american institution of Smith and Wesson is not negligently removing this from their manufacturing process.
Bill DeShivs
New member
imp,
That is entirely possible, and that the clear coat is for added protection.
But, I kind of doubt it.
That is entirely possible, and that the clear coat is for added protection.
But, I kind of doubt it.
I would be very surprised if the Factory wouldn't repair that finish if you send it back to them.
I have a M442 with satin nickel finish that I have carried every day from 1993 until today. I fire it every trip to the range. In 2003 I noticed that the nickel was peeling on the front of the cylinder. I sent it in to S&W and it was completely refinished and returned at no charge.
I know the two guns are different in material and finish. My point is that, unless there is evidence of some misuse, the Factory is usually good about repairing modern guns.
Bob
I have a M442 with satin nickel finish that I have carried every day from 1993 until today. I fire it every trip to the range. In 2003 I noticed that the nickel was peeling on the front of the cylinder. I sent it in to S&W and it was completely refinished and returned at no charge.
I know the two guns are different in material and finish. My point is that, unless there is evidence of some misuse, the Factory is usually good about repairing modern guns.
Bob
Rainbow Demon
New member
I had a Model 37 Airweight, the original with alloy cylinder. A friend found it buried in mud of a lake bottom where it had been long enough for the grips to rot away and the mainspring and guide to rust away to nothing.
The only plating left was on the barrel, which appeared to have been hard chromed. The rest was covered by a thick crusty deposit which looked to be decomposed nickel.
Under the crust, which was easily scaped away, the alloy frame and cylinder was in good condition. Part of the thumb piece of the hammer was deeply pitted and the knurling rusted away.
Theres a lot of chemicals in that lake water, whatever ate away the nickel had decades to work on it.
I looked into nickel plating and found that Hoppes No.9 while damage common nickel plating on older pistols. According to one source if a nickeled pocket pistol like an old Iver Johnson is soaked in Hoppes and placed in a natural fleece lined pistol case the lanolin and ammonia will react and over time can strip the finish where it makes contact with the fleece.
More modern Nickel plating processes are supposed to be less vulnerable to ammonia based solvents, but its good to remember that these solvents were originally intended to dissolve Cupro-Nickel fouling of the early milspec jacketed bullets.
The only plating left was on the barrel, which appeared to have been hard chromed. The rest was covered by a thick crusty deposit which looked to be decomposed nickel.
Under the crust, which was easily scaped away, the alloy frame and cylinder was in good condition. Part of the thumb piece of the hammer was deeply pitted and the knurling rusted away.
Theres a lot of chemicals in that lake water, whatever ate away the nickel had decades to work on it.
I looked into nickel plating and found that Hoppes No.9 while damage common nickel plating on older pistols. According to one source if a nickeled pocket pistol like an old Iver Johnson is soaked in Hoppes and placed in a natural fleece lined pistol case the lanolin and ammonia will react and over time can strip the finish where it makes contact with the fleece.
More modern Nickel plating processes are supposed to be less vulnerable to ammonia based solvents, but its good to remember that these solvents were originally intended to dissolve Cupro-Nickel fouling of the early milspec jacketed bullets.
Seven High
New member
Is Smith & Wesson putting the same clear coat back on the revolvers that are sent in, or are they using an improved clear coat that will not chip off?