51 Navy from Cabelas

Okay, here we go. Place it on half cock first. Then using a plastic hammer carefully tap the assembly wedge (located immediately in front of the cylinder/below the barrel) from the right side of the gun. It should slip loose relatively easy. Once it is partially out simply grip the barrel/loading lever assembly and "wiggle" it forward off the base as you hold the grip with the other hand. Once you have removed the barrel/loading lever the cylinder will slide off the front of the base pin.

Explaining the rest/complete of the tear down in a post is difficult at best. :eek:

Begin by removing the two top screws on the back of the back strap behind the hammer and the bottom screw in the butt. This will let you slip the one piece grips off. From here you will need to take out the main spring screw located in the bottom of the front strap. Letting the hammer down to rest will make this easier. You may now remove the three screws lcoated on the bottom of the front strap, which will expose the inner workings. From here it would probably be eaiser to simply remove parts as you can paying careful attention to the order they are taken out and replace them in the same order. A lot of people, myself included, cheat by removing the grips and then washing the gun in soap and water. (A dishwasher serves very good here. I might mention that using the dishwasher for things like this has lead to more than one divorce for me. :D) Explaing the rest of the disassembly in a post is sort of like talking someone down landing a plane that has never flown before. :D
Anyone that can articulate this better than I am feel free to jump in here......... :D

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Gunslinger
 
Gunslinger,

The pin is front of the cylinder won't move. On one side, it sticks out pretty far with a screw above it. The other side is flush with the side of the frame.
 
Try using something soft such as a comb or brush that will reach in the hole to cover the wedge and SMACK it with a hammer....lightly. It won't hurt anything to take the screw on the other side out first but it should not be necessary if it is loosened.
It is designed to come out so do not be too worried about hurting it....with in reason, of course.

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Gunslinger
 
It will loosen up after it has been removed a few times.
If you shoot a lot you will surprise yourself how fast you can reload eventually.

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Gunslinger
 
I've got several of Cabelas revolvers including their 1851 navy. Overall I've been very happy with these pistols, though the steel is definitely a bit on the soft side and they tend to put a bad wear mark around the locking notches in the cylinder faster than the Uberti's that I have had. Overall the Uberti's got a better fit and finish, but Cabelas are still good shooters and great values. As far as changing cylinders goes, however, the difficulty changing out the cylinders in the Colt patern revolvers is one of the many reasons for the popularity of the Remingtons and Stars during the wonder years. Take an experienced handler of an 1858 Remington and and experienced handler of a Colt revolver and the Remington user will beat you on cylinder changing speed every time, oh did I mention that the Remingtons generally also shot point of aim :)
 
I've been thinking about ordering the Remington target model from Cabelas - are the Uberti's much more expensive? The Cabelas guns run about $150 for the one with adjustable sights (or should I go traditional and get the fixed sight model - someone mentioned that they shoot point of aim)
 
If you want, you can get treated paper from Dixie and load cartridges. It takes time at home, but is a lot easier than loading with loose powder and ball, and it is the way the "old timers" did it. With cartridges and a capper, reloading is pretty fast.

In wartime, some troopers carried spare cylinders, loaded and capped. Don't do this on the range because if the capped cylinder is dropped and a cap strikes concrete or a stone, the chamber may fire and the ball cause injury or death.

Jim
 
For everyone interested,

Here is a web page that tells you how to make paper cartridges for our pistols.
http://www.civilwarguns.com/9508.html

Jim,

Actually, the theory about officers changing cylinders in battle has pretty much been proven false. I've talked to civil war (actually, War of Northern Aggression!) historian, Joe Bilby, and he told me that actually, most just carried more than one pistols. Members of Quantrill's raiders actually usually carried 4 or more.
 
I have had several Colt replicas as well as Remingtons. In my opinion, the Remington is far superior in strength and accuracy. The Colt, unlike the Remington, has no topstrap and if the wedge isn't a perfect fit each time it is assembled, you won't be able to hit squat. Also, with the Colt, each time the gun is fired the fit seems to get sloppier. If you want a shooter, buy a Remington. The North definitely had the superior weapon.
 
sorry for the subject change, but it tsill deals with blackpowder, i would actully like to get a flintlock Pistol? can anyone recomend a good quilty and fair price for one?

thank house
 
Hi, Hammy

Many troopers and officers preferred the Colt because a cap that fell into the action could usually be shaken out. That was not possible with the Remingtons, in which a cap in the action could mean a gun out of action.

Colts don't get looser every time they are taken down. But some of the repros are very soft and for those you may be right. The makers of repros know they are basically making toys, not serious pistols, and make them accordingly.

In a percussion revolver, the top strap does not really do much for strength, since the recoil force comes back on the heavy part of the frame, not at the top like a cartridge revolver.

Hi, Missippi Rifleman,

I have read some original stuff saying that spare cylinders were carried, though obviously carrying spare pistols made more sense if they were available. But some folks do accept the spare cylinder business, and my main point was the warning about the danger of that practice on a range. I know because I saw it happen, fortunately with no injury.

Jim


[This message has been edited by Jim Keenan (edited August 13, 2000).]
 
Just my two cents on the subject of greasing the cylinder. Back in the 70s, I had a .36 cal. Sheriff's model on which I used Crisco to seal each chamber. It worked fine for me.

BTW, after cleaning it in a pan of hot, soapy water, I turned the oven on 200 degrees and baked the parts for about 20-30 minutes just to make sure all of the water was gone from every nook and cranny.
DAL

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Reading "Capitalism: The Unknown Ideal," by Ayn Rand, should be required of every politician and in every high school.
GOA, JPFO, PPFC, CSSA, LP, NRA
 
Dixie Gun Works sells a neat little grease dispenser for sealing the clylinders. It looks like a small cake decorator.

If the weather is warm the grease can sure be a mess!

I really like my Remington .36 from Cabellas.
I thought the over powder wads used by Buffalo Bullets would eliminate the grease problem but, the .36 Buffalo Bullets are too tall to fit under the loading ram. Stick to round balls and grease if you are going to order by catalog.

William
 
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