Your press seats the nose of the bullet a fixed distance from the backside of the case head. So, if you set the seating die up to produce the length you see in the third image from the left on my drawing, you will get that from every round regardless of case length. It improves consistency of start pressure that way, which is part of why it improves accuracy.
I have found that lead bullets are soft enough that if you have five thousandths of the kind of protrusion you see in the last image on the right end of the drawing, the recoil spring is usually strong enough to seat them anyway. If the head of the case is five or ten thousandths below the back end of the barrel extension (hood), the bullet has started into the throat and will stop before the rim hits the extractor hook in most instances. So there is really a range of bullet lengths that still work well in each gun.
Find which gun makes you seat the bullet deepest and then drop a sample round in the other barrels and see which one lets it fall furthest in. See if that is far enough that the extractor hook will catch it before it goes that far or not. If not, it will usually shoot pretty well and you can use that same seating dept for all you guns. Otherwise, you may find two seating depths, each of which satisfies two of the guns and can divide the ammo up that way. Then you just have to learn how far to turn the seating die setting to switch.
The taper crimp die will have some sensitivity to case length. You want the case mouth to wind up between 0.467" and 0.473" diameter at the mouth for normal headspacing. A lot of the target shooters the '40s, '50s, and '60s both headspaced on the bullet and applied a roll crimp (since the case mouth wasn't close enough to the throat to cause a problem) for extra bullet pull and start pressure and swore that produced the most accurate ammunition. It is probably hard to find a 45 Auto roll crimp die these days. The one I have is in an ancient RCBS die set.