4" vs 6" Medium Frame Revolver

Which then begs the question: If your primary intent is for plinking and target, why do you care that the energy from a six is more than from a four? More energy for that purpose is moot. Inorganic targets do not care. At some point, one must make-up his mind what he intends on using it for.
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Yes, target shooting is my primary objective. And with the balance vs barrel heavy vs longer site radius making my decision difficult, I see the 23% increase in energy as an additional consideration.

If adding a 357 magnum revolver to my collection, I see an advantage to having one that extracts more capability from the 357 magnum round that could be beneficial in longer range shooting which would differentiate it from my other pistols (and when combined with the longer site radius that makes sense to me).
 
I prefer a 6" revolver barrel for balance and performance, but not for concealed carry. Like anything, select the proper tool for the job.
 
As far as dry firing - its their guns - you need to ask before you dry fire anyone's guns ( your buddies, in a shop, at a gunshow, etc.)....

Not all modern center fire caliber guns can be dry fired....new Freedom Arms revolvers have a firing pin that will bottom out / and they should not be dry fired...( I have a Freedom Arms that was made about 18 months ago in .357 Mag ...and broke a firing pin ...because I dry fired it -- and their instructions said not to do it !! )....and I screwed up! If you dry fire a Freedom Arms -you need snap caps.

Revolvers for "Target or Bulls Eye"...in a .357 mag...I'd go with an L or N frame S&W in a 6"...../ for "Tactical shooting" ...in an L or N frame I'd go with a 4" ....I find a 6" barrel on a revolver is too long a gun to drag out of a belt holster ( you have to get your elbow very high )...vs a 4" its just fine. Shoulder holsters work fine - if you like a gun high - like when you're fly fishing...but many ranges will not let you wear a shoulder rig and draw a gun at their range ( its hard to draw from a shoulder rig and not "sweep" the area...or other shooters....

For a "Target" gun - you don't need a holster....

My favorite S&W revolvers are all .357 Mag....and I give the N frame, model 27's, a little edge over my 686's ( L frames) ...but they're both outstanding guns. But you can't really go wrong with either model.../ and I would pick almost any S&W revolver over the Ruger options....S&W has way better triggers in my view in both DA and SA - and better fit and finish - and they'll hold their value much better, in my opinion.
 
Dave, I can't argue with the idea that you find the possible increase in velocity (power) at least noteworthy and part of the whole equation. On that, I am with you. I'd like to mention, however, that a lot goes in to the differences in those two inches. Basically, the two inches might have an average percentage of effect, but this would only be if ALL other bits were precisely, completely identical. Obviously in the real world that we live in, this is unlikely to be the case.

You'd need two bores that were (nearly) identical and even more important, you'd need a flash gap between the two to be identical before you'd realize the increase. I'm unsure if the chambers themselves have any effect on things, but it would seem as if they would.

I'll put it another way...
If you had two examples of the same model of .357, but one was a 4" and the other a 6", and each were at extremes in the range of tolerance, with the 4" having everything conducive to velocity while the 6" ran the edge of acceptability before being allowed to ship out... you might find the difference in a chrono reading between the same ammo in both guns to be incredibly close.

And to further muddy things, the difference in those two inches will vary simply by the ammo that you feed them. Some loads concocted will show more variance due to those two inches than a different load would.

I definitely get your point, just want to keep it a tiny bit in check! ;)
 
Hey photoman12001, terrific photos, gorgeous guns, great props and a joy to look at. Especially from a guy like me who knows what a fine gun looks like and yet fails nearly every time he attempts to snap a picture of one. :eek:

Constructive criticism, though: your HUGE script copyright notice takes away from the picture... big time. It's so large that it draws attention away from the subject. It's what I remember most about each picture. Worse when it goes over, through or otherwise pollutes part of the subject matter.

Just my opinion, not meant in any nasty manner.
 
6" in .357 is a good compromise between the original 8 inches and up barrels and the 4 inch, which offers greater handling ease at the cost of velocity. Especially if carrying is not a real consideration.
 
I like the all. I have 2 4 inch guns (one S&W Mod 67-1 in .38 Spcl., and a 4 inch Colt Python.), one 6 inch gun (S&W Mod 28-2 in .357 Mag.), and a 10 1/2 inch Colt Python. The last one has been fired less than 4 times since it was made. For my shooting it is too heavy in the front. All the others I love to shoot just the same.

Though my true preference is a 6.5 inch single action for revolvers. It has the right feel in my hand. Though it is a matter of preference on my part.
 
I prefer the 4" barrel

Longer barrels will shoot better* than shorter, but I prefer the convenience of the shorter.


* There's a smart aleck in every crowd that will attempt to prove me wrong. And oftentimes succeed.
 
I have a Freedom Arms that was made about 18 months ago in .357 Mag ...and broke a firing pin ...because I dry fired it -- and their instructions said not to do it !! )....and I screwed up! If you dry fire a Freedom Arms -you need snap caps.
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Sorry to hear about that.

So does that mean that if you are at the range and have a Dirty Harry moment, "did I shoot 5 or 6", you run the risk of damaging your gun if the answer is 6? If that is the case, that seems like a design disadvantage particularly if comparable competitive designs are robust to the occasional dry fire.

I have a 22 rifle that takes 18 in the tube. I always loose count. That gun as far as I know is still ok with the occasional dry fire which indicates it needs more ammo. But I definitely would not do it over and over though.
 
So does that mean that if you are at the range and have a Dirty Harry moment, "did I shoot 5 or 6", you run the risk of damaging your gun if the answer is 6? If that is the case, that seems like a design disadvantage particularly if comparable competitive designs are robust to the occasional dry fire.
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Firstly firing pin doesn't brake from a few dry fire shots, it take A LOT more. Secondly on the range you still have empty cases in the cylinder which at least partially, if not fully compensate... ;)
 
Right. Should have thought of that ;). Nice things about revolvers is you get to choose when the brass leaves.
 
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I actually felt the 6" was more balanced and more like the 1911 I am used to compared to the 3" or 4" models which to me felt "back" heavy.
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You really answered your own question - but asking is entertaining and informative. Welcome to the forum, we are here to help!

As to dry firing it is common courtesy to ask first. Personally if someone dry fired a gun of mine without asking they would never fire a gun of mine again, dry or live.

When in a shop and "feeling" the trigger of a perspective revolver purchase I put my left thumb in between the hammer and frame so it doesn't slam down on the frame or firing pin. Unnecessary in most cases but just something I do.
 
I always place my thumb in front of the hammer when dry-firing a gun that isn't mine as well.

Per Ruger's FAQs on their website:
Q: Can I dry fire my Ruger revolver?
A: Yes. All Ruger revolvers can be dry fired without damage, and dry firing can be useful to familiarize the owner with the firearm. However, be sure any firearm is completely unloaded before dry firing!

I dry-fire my SP101 sometimes and I've never pinged the cylinder. I would not do this with my S&W rimfires though.

From S&W's FAQs:
Q: Can I dry fire my Smith & Wesson?
A: Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 22A, 22S, 422, 2206, 2214, 2213 and 41.
.22 caliber revolvers such as models 17, 43, 63, 317 and 617 also should not be dry fired.

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On my Freedom Arms revolver.....it was dry fired less than 50 times...and the firing pin broke.../ in fact I don't think I'd fired more than 10 boxes thru the gun / and the pin broke when I had cartridges in it, and I was firing the gun, at the range.

The good side of this - with their new guns in the last 4 or 5 yrs - they have a removable bushing in them - that is easy to remove and replace the firing pin. ( and since I had to get a replacement from the factory / I ordered a 2nd one - just in case).
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My gun holds 5 - large frame - but no, firing the gun on an already fired cyclinder should not bottom out the firing pin - or so the factory tells me. I probably have close to 100 boxes thru the gun since I broke the firing pin ( I rarely count my shots - and routinely fire a 6th time - as I'm practicing - and I have not broken a 2nd firing pin).
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the Freedom Arms 4 3/4" ....
http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=82010&d=1339790943

In my opinion - the firing pin design on the Freedom arms is certainly strong...and while they probably intended the design to make sure they did not get any light primer strikes - the way to prevent it from breaking, was to believe the manual when it said use snap caps...so it was my fault, not the design in my view. A Freedom Arms revolver - is a very strong gun. But the point is, not all center fire calibers can be dry fired without snap caps. If you are considering a single action revolver...the balance on this 4 3/4" is almost perfect ( although its heavy at 55 oz ) ....and its perfect in .357 mag...and would be good in .44 mag as well.../ it might be a little light in .454 Casull or .475 Linebaugh...where I'd want at least a 6" for the extra weight.

Some 4" and 6" revolvers...( all S&W ) ...

http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85935&d=1357929955

686 6" at upper left, blued gun is a model 27 6", a pair of model 66's in 4" at the upper right / a pair of model 19's ( Nickel) at lower right.
 
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Dry firing a revolver won't hurt anything. Neither will test driving a car. In both cases however, its best to ask first.
 
AND I have to call BS on a previously posted statement:
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Taurus specifically recommends against dry firing their revolvers.
Wrong!:

http://www.taurususa.com/faq-results.cfm?faqID=24
Quote:
CAN I DRY FIRE MY TAURUS?

Yes, except for the .22 caliber pistols which includes models 94 and 941.

.22 caliber revolvers such as models 94 and 941 also should not be dry fired.

AFAIK no .22 revolver of any brand should be dry fired.
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Taurus' revolver manual specifically recommends against it.

My experience was that dry firing my old (late 80s vintage) model 66 eventually mashed the firing pin spring into uselessness.
 
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