380 or 38 Special for pocket carry. Pick one.

Which one for pocket carry?

  • 7 rounds of 380

    Votes: 68 42.8%
  • 5 rounds of 38 Special

    Votes: 91 57.2%

  • Total voters
    159

CDW4ME

New member
Two different options for pocket carry a Kel-Tec (or Ruger LCP) 380 or J-frame 38 Special (Mag-Na-Ported).

The 380 offers 7 rounds with the following ballistics:
102 gr. Golden Saber @ 775 F.P.S. / 136# KE
90 gr. Hydra Shock @ 845 F.P.S. / 143# KE

The ported Model 638 offers 5 shots with slightly more power:
110 Silvertip (not +p) 821 F.P.S. / 165# KE
130 gr. Bonded PDX +P 848 F.P.S. / 207# KE

Which one would you pick for pocket carry? Why?
 
I actually own both a J-frame and a Ruger LCP. For power, I like the j-frame. For pocket carry, the LCP wins out.

In my experience, pocket carry of a j-frame looks like I'm pocket carrying a j-frame. It just doesn't work for me.
 
I'm curious about why you'd list the ammunition for each cartridge. The options are far less limited than what's listed.

I'd take the J-frame .38 special (it's my every day/everywhere carry) for the better selection of ammo and bullet weights.

You can't shoot a 158 grain bullet very well from a .380 case, because the cartridge would either be too long to fee reliably from a pocket auto, or there wouldn't be enough room for powder.

7 rounds is all good and fine in theory, but I do NOT want to have to shoot a BG 7 times to stop them. Velocity isn't going to come easy from a short barrel, so more bullet weight is good.

Daryl
 
I'd pick the LCP over the J-frame for pocket carry. I've tried the J-frame and the bulk of the cylinder just makes it too thick for me.
 
First you picked 2 so so 380 rounds Neither best choice in 380.
Here from KelTec GoldenLokie.com 380 test

Corbon 90gr HP 950 fps 181 ftlbs
80 DPX 956 fps 162 ftlbs

Speer 90grGD 909 165 ftlbs

Since no +P in 380 these better choice and right in their with the 38spl.
I'll keep my 380 . Only in America is the 380 considered weak and under powered.
 
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Daryl: "I'm curious about why you'd list the ammunition for each cartridge. The options are far less limited than what's listed."

It's what I've got and chronographed.


michael t: "First you picked 2 so so 380 rounds Neither best choice in 380."

380 ammo isn't exactly abundant. I thought those were two fairly represenative SD loads.

I also chronographed Remington 110 non+p in the 38 @ 779 F.P.S. and Win. SXT 95 gr. (in the 380) @ 773 F.P.S. I saw no reason to include these loads since their performance was surpassed by the ones I gave.

Regardless, I've shot 380 Cor-Bon before and the recoil was excessive. In a small light pistol like the P3AT, I'll stick with standard "typical" velocity loads.
 
I actually own both a J-frame and a Ruger LCP. For power, I like the j-frame. For pocket carry, the LCP wins out.
+1
I own both also, and neither one is my primary pocket pistol. But when my primary is too large to conceal, I carry the LCP. The J-frame in a jeans pocket looks like you're in love...and built funny.

use1.jpg


use2.jpg
 
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I don't like small semi-autos, I don't trust their reliability... For a pocket gun I'd choose the revolver. And I prefer the .38 Spl over the .380 anyway.
 
I own a Bersa Thunder .389 and a Colt Det Spec in .38 special. Since neither is a "Knock em down" cartridge, . . . I have chosen capacity and speed of reloading for my choice criteria.

The Bersa is my choice if I cannot carry my 1911 for some reason. Reloading a revolver in a live fire situation requires one of two things: 1) a lot of practice with a speedloader or speed strips, . . . OR, . . . 2) the ability to call "Time Out" during the fire fight.

I can have my Bersa reloaded and ready to go with 7 more (after the first 8, which is 2 more than the Colt to begin with) faster than most people I have seen can even get a speedloader or speed strip out of their storage place.

With one extra mag, I have 15 rounds of .380 with me, available, . . . . instead of only 12, if I have the Colt and one reload.

Just my thoughts.

May God bless,
Dwight
 
If you typically wear 'cargo' style pants, than a J frame will conceal nicely. If you're more of the slim dress pants type, then the Ruger hides better.

One thing I like about the J frame is that it, like the human body, is rounded and, IMO, blends in, looking like nothing more than wad of keys, if even seen.

JMO, YMMV
 
First of all.....

Don't get hung up on small (relatively) differences in velocity figures. Individual guns can shoot "faster" or "slower" with the same lot of ammo, and when you factor in the possible differences between lots of ammo, a difference of as much as 50fps (from identical barrel lengths) is not unheard of. I have personally seen 3 different guns have a 100fps difference, but this much is unusual.

Second, there is the question of reliability. Have you (or will you) shoot the auto enough to be reasonably certain it will work when you need it? One current maker (Kahr) puts in their manual to shoot (at least) 200 rnds before considering the gun reliable.

Third, the largest difference is the platforms, and how they fit and feel in your hand, along with how well you can shoot them. While I listed it third, it is the most significant issue. Some people can't hit the broad side of a barn with a snub revolver. For some, the auto is hard to hit with. Others, have no preference. Got any Idea which one you are?

Lastly, the size thing. TO me, if you can conceal one, you can conceal the other. But then, I don't try to hide a pistol inside my speedo. People have been wearing snub .38s for generations, with regular success.

Personally, I would go with the revolver, for the following reasons; a) proven reliability and simplicity (no safety to fumble with, no magazine to come unlatched, etc.) b) cost, availability, and variety of .38 Special ammo. c)firepower isn't an issue. If you don't do it in five (or six), having another round or two seems unlikely to me to make much difference.

Remember what you are looking at here. These guns are called belly guns, cause they are intended to be used at very close range (belly to belly). These are not the guns for getting in a gun fight, exchanging fire with the bad guys. These are the guns of last resort. Their job is to stop the attack hard enough so you can get away! If they stop it for good, so much the better, but, don't count on it. Forget Hollywood fantasies, and remember that castle doctrine and "stand your ground" laws are there to protect us from legal backlash after a shooting, not to imply we should not retreat if we can.

As a private citizen (without a police dept's legal standing), every round you fire goes somewhere, and you are legally responsible for it. Those extra rounds in the auto may be a mental comfort, but if you launch them down range, you are responsible for whatever they do, and even if you are found fully justified defending yourself, you can still wind up in big trouble. Cops and soldiers can shoot to "keep their heads down". We cannot. At least not without running huge additional risks. Something to keep in mind.

And lastly, a personal preference, I would prefer the steel revolver (and accept the extra weight to carry) over the plastic frame auto, as a better impact weapon, should all else fail.

Choose and carry what you can shoot the best, what feels best in your hands. Don't let the relatively minor differences in paper ballistics override the real world when making your decision. And which ever one you choose, shoot it enough to know that its going to work, and where it hits in your hands, before you trust your life to it.
 
44 AMP


First of all.....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Don't get hung up on small (relatively) differences in velocity figures. Individual guns can shoot "faster" or "slower" with the same lot of ammo, and when you factor in the possible differences between lots of ammo, a difference of as much as 50fps (from identical barrel lengths) is not unheard of. I have personally seen 3 different guns have a 100fps difference, but this much is unusual.

Second, there is the question of reliability. Have you (or will you) shoot the auto enough to be reasonably certain it will work when you need it? One current maker (Kahr) puts in their manual to shoot (at least) 200 rnds before considering the gun reliable.

Third, the largest difference is the platforms, and how they fit and feel in your hand, along with how well you can shoot them. While I listed it third, it is the most significant issue. Some people can't hit the broad side of a barn with a snub revolver. For some, the auto is hard to hit with. Others, have no preference. Got any Idea which one you are?

Lastly, the size thing. TO me, if you can conceal one, you can conceal the other. But then, I don't try to hide a pistol inside my speedo. People have been wearing snub .38s for generations, with regular success.

Personally, I would go with the revolver, for the following reasons; a) proven reliability and simplicity (no safety to fumble with, no magazine to come unlatched, etc.) b) cost, availability, and variety of .38 Special ammo. c)firepower isn't an issue. If you don't do it in five (or six), having another round or two seems unlikely to me to make much difference.

Remember what you are looking at here. These guns are called belly guns, cause they are intended to be used at very close range (belly to belly). These are not the guns for getting in a gun fight, exchanging fire with the bad guys. These are the guns of last resort. Their job is to stop the attack hard enough so you can get away! If they stop it for good, so much the better, but, don't count on it. Forget Hollywood fantasies, and remember that castle doctrine and "stand your ground" laws are there to protect us from legal backlash after a shooting, not to imply we should not retreat if we can.

As a private citizen (without a police dept's legal standing), every round you fire goes somewhere, and you are legally responsible for it. Those extra rounds in the auto may be a mental comfort, but if you launch them down range, you are responsible for whatever they do, and even if you are found fully justified defending yourself, you can still wind up in big trouble. Cops and soldiers can shoot to "keep their heads down". We cannot. At least not without running huge additional risks. Something to keep in mind.

And lastly, a personal preference, I would prefer the steel revolver (and accept the extra weight to carry) over the plastic frame auto, as a better impact weapon, should all else fail.

Choose and carry what you can shoot the best, what feels best in your hands. Don't let the relatively minor differences in paper ballistics override the real world when making your decision. And which ever one you choose, shoot it enough to know that its going to work, and where it hits in your hands, before you trust your life to it.
__________________
All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.


Holy cow, I had to get up and go to the bathroom halfway through that!:eek:

I can shoot my S&W 638 .38spl to 50 yards, and I hit the sillhouitte with all 5 shot's but, I don't think I could do that with a Ruger LCP.

Look up Elvishead on www.Youtube.com, those were first takes.

I'll take the J-frame everytime!

And it does have "More power"!!!!!
 
I have both a Ruger LCP .380 and a SW J-frame, not ported. I carry both. In some pants (and shorts), the J-frame is a little bulky. That's why I would choose the .380 if it only came down to one.
 
"Only in America is the 380 considered weak and underpowered"

Maybe Americans are bigger and tougher than anybody else. At least bigger. Check out our obesity rate.
 
Carried my 638 for awhile, and it's OK for pocket carry, but sometimes, with certain pants, I would be concerned that it was visible if someone stood behind me at a certain angle. No one said anything, but I have had no such worries with my LCP.
 
.380 (KelTec P3at), but that may change if I can find a nice used .38 S&W I-frame. :)

A .38 Special snubbie would be good in a winter coat pocket.
 
I really dont pocket carry any revolvers, If i have a j-frame it usually goes on my hip. I keep my p32 or my lcp in my pocket or on my ankle though.
 
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