.38 terminology

Nestor,

The .380 Revolver is a slightly different cartridge that is virtually the same as both the .380/200 and the .38 S&W.

Both were looked at when the British decided to replace the .455.

The 200-gr. bullet from the .38 S&W, as manufactured by Colt as the .38 Super Police, was adopted in the .380/200.

------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
 
Other points:

* .38 target wadcutters, usually 148grain, are the lowest-recoil factory load available. Usually very cheap, in a Blackhawk/Vaquero size gun they'll feel like light .22s. Very comfy even in snubbies...excellent beginner practice fodder. Can also be very accurate, good hunting load for rabbit or similar size range :).

* When handloading "ultra light" in a fairly large case, I've heard several references to cutting the powder with some non-explosive powdery substance so that you don't get "flash effect" or whatever it's being called nowadays. Basically, it's a rare phenomenon whereby light loads with small powder quantities explode versus burn, sorta like an engine running lean and detonating although the cause is probably different. It's poorly understood. I've heard of sawdust and cornmeal being used as the "cutting agent"...there's probably others. I've only READ about handloading, normally I wouldn't discuss something I don't have direct experience in but it seems wise to alert someone to a possible safety hazard. *Factory* light loads such as the 148 wadcutters shouldn't have this problem.

* The ultimate in safe light practice loads is to take a shell, stick a primer in it and shove the open end into a block of wax - with no powder. :) This is actually cool indoor fun, in a basement or something where wax splashes won't stain a rug :).

* The 9x18 commie Makarov round is a slightly larger bore than the rest of the 9mm/.380/.38/.357 family. You can sometimes get .380s to shoot sorta OK in some 9x18 guns in a pinch but never shoot true 9x18 in anything else. Ever :).

Jim
 
The "flash effect" you are referring to I think is when a case is loaded so lightly that the primer flash is able to jump all the way across the top of the powder (imagine the case lying horizontal, there's only enough powder to get to just below the halfway mark) thus igniting all of it at once. Not a good thing as I understand it :)
 
Holy cow! Ask a question here and get info!

I'd really like a pointer to a web site that has an illustration of all the different pistol and rifle cartridges.
 
I'm pretty certain that the detonation, or "flash" effect, is really only a problem with light loads of slower burning powders. I've never heard of it happening with light charges of fast burning powders...

------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
 
Great info here. Jim and Mike, thanks for sharing.

Target loads for me for some fun. Then some new primers and a block of wax to satisfy the youngsters' curiosity.

Thanks to all.

Ledbetter
 
I've encountered one problem in using wax, rubber, and/or plastic bullets in the past.

With some cases, the primer will back out enough to lock a revolver up.

To prevent that, the primer hole has to be enlarged with a drill bit.

These cases should be marked in some very noticable way so that they are never again used for loading regular rounds.

That could be a real problem.

------------------
Beware the man with the S&W .357 Mag.
Chances are he knows how to use it.
 
The "primer flash hitting all the powder at once due to low horizontal levels of powder" is just one theory behind the "flash effect". As I recall, it's not the only contender :). I have no idea what the relationship is between fast-burn and slow-burn powder.

In any case, beginning handloaders should at least be aware of the potential, and do further research.

Jim
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top