.38 ammo question

S

shanewomer

New member
I just purchased a S&W .357, model 65 with a 4" barrel.

I bought some Winchester 145 grain Silver Tip HP ammo for it, for personal defense.

I am planning on ordering some .357 mag, 158 grain FMJ ammo for practice/plinking.

I want to order some .38 special ammo for even more fun/plinking. What grain weight .38 ammo should I get?

Shane
 
try them all. see what works best. WWB 130gn FMJ is a very soft load and accurate, if that's what you're looking for. So is the Federal american eagle 130gn . Both are 38spl by the way.
 
What grain .38 ammo should I get, is my question.

So you are saying I should get 130 gr?

Will that be more comparable to the 158 gr .357 ammo, than getting 158 gr .38 special?
 
In what way do you want them to be comparable? (Not trying to be smart aleck, just not sure what you're asking.)
 
No plinking/practice .38 Special load will be "comparable" with a 158-grain .357 Magnum load.

The Georiga Arms 158-grain LSWC +P will be about as close as you will get (and it's still ~350 fps shy of a medium-loaded .357 Magnum).

If you're just looking at plinking, the various 130-grain FMJs are acceptable (but they're pretty anemic).
 
I guess comparable wasn't the right thing to say.

I've read that 125gr .357 loads will damage the forcing cone if shot a lot, and that the S&W model 65 is made for the 158 gr .357 ammo.

With that in mind, I'm wondering what would be the standard weight .38 ammo that should be used for plinking with my 4" S&W. I have no idea about .38 special loads.

Also, whatever I buy, I hope will also work good in the future S&W .357 models I plan on buying, which will be:

3" m65
2 1/8" m60

Thanks, Shane
 
If your looking for "hot" 38spl loads to practice with, the magtech 158gn fmj
has a pretty good snap for a target load. They aren't .357's but not everything is. :D
 
I am a little confused. Please help me.

What is the main purpose of shooting .38s through a .357 gun?

Is it:

#1. Save money?

#2. Easier on the hand?

#3. Easier on the gun?

If it is because they're cheaper, then I can just find cheap ammo on my own.

If it's because it's easier on the hand, then that just come down to personal choice.

But if it's to be easier on the gun, then what .38 ammo should I choose? I have had a couple people already suggest hot/+p+ .38 loads. What would be the point of that? Couldn't I just shoot .357 magnum ammo?

If the main reason people shoot .38s through a .357 is because it kicks less, and is easier on the hand & gun, then is 130 grain .38s a good choice, or would 158s be better?

Thanks, Shane
 
Well, speaking purely hypothetically as I don't own/shoot one, I think people also shoot 38 or 38 +P through their 357's because of considerably less recoil while still maintaining good "stopping power". I know for my girlfriend who has a hard time with .40 caliber guns, I would probably load a 357 with some 38 +ps and not feel like I was significantly reducing the firepower for her.

And also probably just for practice, yes, to keep your skills sharp without all the flash, bang, wear (on certain models) and price.
 
I'd also say between 130 and 158 it doesn't really matter...um, one thing to check would be if your gun is plus P rated if you plan on shooting any of that. Otherwise, just get some 158 grain wad cutters and have fun (assuming this is for plinking??)
 
Don't worry about the weight in .38s. That gun will handle anything you shoot out of it in .38.

Even with .357- you'll have to shoot many many rounds until you see any problems with the forcing cone.
 
The difference in noise and flash between 38spl and 357 is huge. Especially the noise. 38's are easier on the ears. :)
 
Why .38?

The essence of self-defence is that you do not know from which side the danger will come, and under what circumstances. But for sure, it will come in worse available place and in very wrong time.
If it will come on a sunny day, in a wheat field, and you'll see it from afar, it's nice to have .357s loaded. But it will come suddenly, from 5 meters, when you're in a building or in a car, and in the darkness.
So, when you'll shoot .357, recoil will injure your hand, flash will blind your eyes, and the noise will do the rest :)
The good thing is that an enemy will die from fear even if you miss ;)
 
The Model 65 is a K-frame, right? You musn't use .357 loads on a regular basis or the gun will be broken sooner or later, the frame just isn't strong enough for a steady .357 diet. S&W recommended 10% .357 and 90% .38 usage.

Difference of bullet weights:
The heavier bullet has higher sectional density and will penetrate more, even if it has less energy! Penetration has more to do with momentum than with energy, momentum is speed x bullet weight while energy is speed^2 x bullet weight.
The same energy levels can be achieved by a lighter, faster bullet and a heavier, slower bullet. The slower bullet will have more recoil as it has more momentum.

I use 158gr only, but I have .38 spcl. In your case I'd try which loads shoot to the same impact area as your .357 bullets.
 
I have had a couple people already suggest hot/+p+ .38 loads. What would be the point of that? Couldn't I just shoot .357 magnum ammo?
Click to expand...
They were suggested because you originally asked for .38 Special loads "comparable" to the .357 Magnum. You later clarified your question.

For your what you are describing now, it doesn't make any difference which .38 Special load you buy--any would do. The 130-grain FMJs are usually least expensive, and it's easier to clean your weapon after you shoot them than after lead bullets. Another avenue for you to explore is .357 Magnum "Cowboy Loads." They are normally loaded in the .38 Special range (Georgia Arms is a reasonably priced source).

Frankly, there are lots and lots of good reasons to avoid the hot 125-grain SJHP loads in your Model 65 including potential forcing cone damage (and no good reason to shoot them). Stick with your 145-grain Silvertips--they are a far better choice.
 
How many rounds can a K-frame handle? I don't shoot that much.

I was thinking of ordering from here. They have a case of 1000 rounds of 158 grain .357 FMJ ammo for $120

With as often as I shoot, that would last me for years. Could I just buy that, and forget about the .38 special ammo? Would it be too much to shoot 1000 rounds of .357 for practice?

If I wanted the .38 rounds for all the reasons ya'll have suggested, which one would be easier on the gun, 130 or 158 grain .38 special?

Thanks for all the great replies.
 
Frankly, I'd just stick to the 158-grain .357 Magnums and not worry about it. Your M66 can easily handle 1000 rounds of that load.

I don't know about your ammo source. If you were looking at the "WC Cartridge Company" load, it appears to be a commercial reload, and I don't know anything about it. Unless you're familiar with the brand and the quality, I would probably suggest caution.

A slightly more expensive alternative would be the 158-grain Blazer load from Natchez at $8.44. I know its good quality ammo.

I doubt either of the .38 Special loads would be "easier on the gun." They are both rather anemic. The 130-grain FMJ is easier to clean-up afteward (don't have to mess with the lead), but the FMJ is theoretically harder on the barrel than lead (but I doubt if you'll notice the difference in this lifetime).

If you keep to relatively mild 158-grain .357 Magnum loads (or powder puff .38 loads), your M66 will outlast you. If you want to shoot heavy loads like the old 125-grain SJHPs or some of the speciality heavy hunting loads, you will probably eventually have problem--the M66 is not designed for that kind of use.
 
Juliet,
Thanks for the heads-up on the Blazer ammo. That is a good price.

I tried to order some, but I couldn't. It says, "No shipping to TN, AL or GA."

Bummer. I live in TN. It wouldn't let me finish the order. Why can't they ship to me in TN?
 
Juliet, or anyone,

You said:

"The 130-grain FMJ is easier to clean-up afteward (don't have to mess with the lead), but the FMJ is theoretically harder on the barrel than lead (but I doubt if you'll notice the difference in this lifetime)."

What about JHP? Is that better for the barrel than FMJ for any reason?
 
Any jacketed bullet, whether FMJ, JHP,SJHP, TC, etc., is theoretically harder on the barrel than a lead bullet. The jacket is harder than lead and therefore will theoretically wear the barrel faster. Barring lots and lots of shooting it really is a non-issue with modern steels and non-corrosive ammo.
 
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