.357 snub does not offer much more than a .38spl snub?

You can expect about 400 FPS more from a 357 load vs a 38+P load in the same gun. Of course this comes with a penalty.
 
38s have it all over the 357s

357 mags are best out of a K or L frame. Of course they can be fired from a snub, but not well. ALL the vids you see on youtube of dudes firing 357s from an Airweight or even a steel J like mine (649) are usually in single action and fired very, very, slowly, cautiously, and the recoil is severe. Few people can maintain a two handed grip since the recoil kicks it out of the support hand almost every time; good luck trying to get a follow up shot in a real situation! Say you were injured and had to switch to your off-hand, the J would be virtually uncontrollable. 38+ is the more logical round.
 
giving the 38s and edge

Now this is honestly just a ruse to add some pics of my SW J frame since i dont want to start a fresh thread. But here's a related idea idea on how best make use of the 38 SPL without moving up to heavy kickin' 357s. It takes the form of Hi-Hiz sight that totally shines like a traffic light!

Pic 1 is what the camera sees - depth is lost and its not what I see but the brightness of the Hi-Viz which I had installed last week is evident! I had a red ramp in before tha worked only in very optimal light conditions.
Pic 2, well thats some photoshop work, but because of the distortion and limitations of what a camera pic can reproduce this image is actually what I see - the Green site is partially osbscured if the sights are held level. Ive seen and heard of J frame owners file down the topstrap channel but I know thats tons of work for little gain... plus its expensive! For me I'll just adjust the sight picture so I can see more of the green circle.
Pic 3 is a glamour pose and again you can see how bright the Hi-Viz is (you can also see the matte white paint I have in the rear site indentation). Its not as bright as Tritium and wont woork well in low-light condtions but its great otherwise. I will take it out to the range within a few weeks...
 

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The one thing the .357 has over the .38 out of the snub nose is the ability to shoot .357/.38/+P... in a very solid package. Regardless of ballistics from short barrels, this takes the cake for me. Especially after trying to shop for ammo lately.
 
A short barreled .357 shooting full house loads is a handful...J, K, L, or N frame...it's a handful. It does give you that added bit of velocity, and if you're not accurate enough...it'll double as a flame thrower...heck you'll incinerate 'em even if you miss! LOL, Rod
 
I think people spend too much time worrying about stuff like this.

I would bet that most can shoot .38 special a little better than .357 especially out of a snubby.

If you can't protect or defend yourself in a parking lot with a .38 special, you're deep trouble anyways.
 
I can't help but wonder if the people who go on and on about the "savage recoil" of the 357 in a snubby have actually fired one. My wife shoots one contantly, 125gr bullet at 1300 fps, and I've never heard her whine about the recoil like I see online.
 
Plenty of videos on Youtube showing +P 38spl. HP ammo like Gold Dots getting rapid expansion, wound channels and penetration equal to and once in awhile greater than a .357 out of a snub.

When you start going up in barrel lengths, that's when the .357 starts edging out over the .38spl +P. As far as defense goes, the faster follow-up shots and recovery make the .38spl +P a better snub round in my book since the difference is far too small for the extra blast and recoil. The only snub (however far from lightweight) I like shooting a .357 out of is the SP101, otherwise it's my GP100, K frames or other medium-large framed revolvers. BTW, I'm not recoil sensitive since shooting the S&W500 is a fun day at the range. ;)
 
I can't help but wonder if the people who go on and on about the "savage recoil" of the 357 in a snubby have actually fired one. My wife shoots one contantly, 125gr bullet at 1300 fps, and I've never heard her whine about the recoil like I see online.
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A 158 gr or heavier bullet might not be so easy on the hand.
My S&W Model 37 (the ultra light early model with alloy cylinder) had quite a kick with .38 Special 158 gr semi-wadcutters. That was mainly due to a cutdown slim profile wrap around walnut grip I had installed, the original grips being missing. Firing it was like catching a line drive without a glove.
I've fired .44 Magnum snubnoses, with much heavier frame of course, that kicked less.
A good pair of rubber grips or a grip with better shape than the one I used can make a great deal of difference in felt recoil.
 
I shoot 158 grain .357s from my Ruger Speed six with 2 3/4 barrel. Not a j Frame but more of a K frame snub.

Not brutal but I'm defiantly slower getting back on target. I have enough .357 brass to start reloading. I would like to see how I do and feel after shooting 100 rounds of .357 at one range session.
 
As with everything else is it all subjective. The fact is a 357 magnum from a snub is significantly more powerful than any 38 load. The question is are you willing to take the time and effort to master it? I see alot of posters here who obviously did not or will not. There are several things that you can do, put grips on the gun that work with the recoil, develop some hand strength and learn proper shooting technique. These things will mitigate the recoil.
 
As with everything else is it all subjective.
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That's true. IMO, my version of a snub is something lightweight and pocketable, usually a 5 shot. A full size revolver frame with a 2-2.5" barrel is technically a snub and those types of snubs can of course soak up more recoil. Basically when it comes down to it, what snub are you talking about. My version is an aluminum or scandium frame with a 2-finger grip that can fit in my pocket. If I put big grips on it, it would negate it's use. For IWB, it's an all steel K frame for me.

Bottom line, what snub are we talking about? Frame size, barrel size, frame material and grip size/material makes a big difference in it's shootability and felt recoil.
 
If there is one thing a 357 fired out of a short barrel will do that a 38 won't and that is ruin your night vision. Go out some night and try it and tell if you can even see your hands after lighting off a round — let alone a target/assailant
 
Basically when it comes down to it, what snub are you talking about.
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One is a 640 Pro and one is a 13, both 357 Mags and both are steel snubbies ( the 686does not count).

My version is an aluminum or scandium frame with a 2-finger grip that can fit in my pocket.
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That is a self imposed limit, I do not pocket carry (except coat pocket).
If I put big grips on it, it would negate it's use.
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Bottom line, what snub are we talking about? Frame size, barrel size, frame material and grip size/material makes a big difference in it's shootability and felt recoil.
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Like everything else with handguns it is a compromise. I had the ScTi 357, it went back to S&W 2 times to have the frame replaced ( I shoot my guns), now I just have steel revolvers because they hold up to lots of shooting full power loads. I should have my new snubby tomorrow, 629 PC and i plan on using 180 JHP's as my carry load.
 

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A myth, at best.

Speer 135 grain 38+P clocks 860+ out of my 2.5" 19-4.

Speer 158 grain 357 clocks 1260+ out of the same gun.

There is a big difference. Regards 18DAI
 
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