223 worth reloading?
- Thread starter Colten519
- Start date
Not for me. I could save money, but my time is worth something to me and I've decided I'd rather pay for factory ammo in 223. I feel the same way about handgun ammo.
I do hand load for my center fire big game rifles. I do it because I can get better speeds and accuracy using premium bullets for about the same price as buying budget ammo.
I do hand load for my center fire big game rifles. I do it because I can get better speeds and accuracy using premium bullets for about the same price as buying budget ammo.
Steve in PA
New member
Depends. I still reload for the .223, but I usually do it over the winter, reloading a few thousand rounds. Hard to shoot in the frigid winters we usually get here in PA.
I have several thousand pieces of .223 brass saved, so that's now an issue. So it's primers, powders and mil-spec FMJ bullets. The only other cost to me is my time.
I have several thousand pieces of .223 brass saved, so that's now an issue. So it's primers, powders and mil-spec FMJ bullets. The only other cost to me is my time.
You do not need my approval or advice.Its your money,your rifle,and your time.
For myself,cost is not the #1 consideration. With my AR's,I build more for accuracy.Barrels have a lifespan.I don't do budda-budda-budda mag dumps.I shoot one round at a time.I almost always use match grade heavy bullets,loaded for my intentions.I shoot the same ammo,every time,not what is on the shelf.
A while back,Ibought a 5 gal bucket of one fired(3750,approx) for $159 delivered.Its about $199 now.
But I'll call it 3000 for $150,or 5 cents apiece.Maybe I can load them 4 times.
So,under 2 cents apiece for brass,per load,rounding up.
Primer: You can always get the CCI Mil-Spec primer(recommended) for under $50 a thousand.On the high side,5 cents for a primer
Powder:,about 280 loads a pound,+ or - .To make the math easy,say $28 a pound,or a dime for powder.
Now,at this point,we spent 17 cents,and we need a bullet.
Its easy to buy 55 gr to 62 gr Hornady fmj for about 12 cents a bullet.
The 69,70,75,77 gr HPBT match bullets run 23 to 28 cents apiece,callit 25 cents.
So,for 55-62 gr fmj ammo that will likely be more accurate than commercial mil-spec,about 29 cents a shot.
For match grade bullets,42cents a shot.
If you buy new commercial brass...what is it now? $35 a hundred?Load it 5 times?That adds a nickel a shot to those numbers.
But then,ammortize the Dillon,case prep tools,etc...and figure your time.
For myself,cost is not the #1 consideration. With my AR's,I build more for accuracy.Barrels have a lifespan.I don't do budda-budda-budda mag dumps.I shoot one round at a time.I almost always use match grade heavy bullets,loaded for my intentions.I shoot the same ammo,every time,not what is on the shelf.
A while back,Ibought a 5 gal bucket of one fired(3750,approx) for $159 delivered.Its about $199 now.
But I'll call it 3000 for $150,or 5 cents apiece.Maybe I can load them 4 times.
So,under 2 cents apiece for brass,per load,rounding up.
Primer: You can always get the CCI Mil-Spec primer(recommended) for under $50 a thousand.On the high side,5 cents for a primer
Powder:,about 280 loads a pound,+ or - .To make the math easy,say $28 a pound,or a dime for powder.
Now,at this point,we spent 17 cents,and we need a bullet.
Its easy to buy 55 gr to 62 gr Hornady fmj for about 12 cents a bullet.
The 69,70,75,77 gr HPBT match bullets run 23 to 28 cents apiece,callit 25 cents.
So,for 55-62 gr fmj ammo that will likely be more accurate than commercial mil-spec,about 29 cents a shot.
For match grade bullets,42cents a shot.
If you buy new commercial brass...what is it now? $35 a hundred?Load it 5 times?That adds a nickel a shot to those numbers.
But then,ammortize the Dillon,case prep tools,etc...and figure your time.
Ehh... apparently I can get components cheaper than HiBC. I'm getting around 310 rounds per pound of powder, with about 26 bucks per lb. So about 8.5 cents. Primers I get for about 35 bucks for 1k (CCI). That's 3.5 cents. I use the brass I've already collected/scavenged/had given to me/saved from factory ammo so that's free. I'm at 12 cents per round and get bulk hornady bullets for about 10 cents per bullet. That's 22 cents per round, and about the cheapest price I've found on quality bulk brass cased ammo is 35 cents per round. So yes, I save money.
To realize those savings, however, I spend a good bit of time. I can crank out 150 pistol rounds per hour, so 10 or 15 cents per round saved is like paying myself 15 or 20 bucks an hour. 223, however, it's more like how many hours I spend to crank out 100 rounds if you include case prep. My pay would come out to chump change.
But, I have very accurate ammo capable of 1moa for about 2/3rds the price of bulk ammo that I know will not be as accurate or reliable. Plus reloading is a hobby. I enjoy it, when I have enough time to partake. So it's a trade off. Reloading makes a lot more sense if you desire accuracy and would purchase match ammo, or you shoot magnum revolver cartridges (my savings on .357 is approaching 25 cents per round if I shoot lead), or can crank out bulk pistol quickly ala turret press or even better a progressive. If 223 is your only caliber, and you don't want another hobby to suck your time into, then the expense isn't justified IMO.
To realize those savings, however, I spend a good bit of time. I can crank out 150 pistol rounds per hour, so 10 or 15 cents per round saved is like paying myself 15 or 20 bucks an hour. 223, however, it's more like how many hours I spend to crank out 100 rounds if you include case prep. My pay would come out to chump change.
But, I have very accurate ammo capable of 1moa for about 2/3rds the price of bulk ammo that I know will not be as accurate or reliable. Plus reloading is a hobby. I enjoy it, when I have enough time to partake. So it's a trade off. Reloading makes a lot more sense if you desire accuracy and would purchase match ammo, or you shoot magnum revolver cartridges (my savings on .357 is approaching 25 cents per round if I shoot lead), or can crank out bulk pistol quickly ala turret press or even better a progressive. If 223 is your only caliber, and you don't want another hobby to suck your time into, then the expense isn't justified IMO.
I am a long time and passionate handloader. I enjoy the process of making ammo as much or more as making empty brass at the range. But my world is 95% handguns and loading for handguns is less labor intensive than bottle neck rifle.
I do load .223 for a bolt gun, I typically shoot this rifle a couple of times a year on the rifle range and then for 2-3 days on a varmint hunting trip out west. As it happens, I also own two AR's and while they are fun, I don't shoot them often... because handloading for them is -NOT- rewarding to me.
Lubing brass for F/L resizing and trim, chamfer and deburring is an awful bunch of tasks. Slow, obnoxious and makes my hands hurt. The net result is two-fold... I don't shoot my AR's much and I tend to buy ammo for that task rather than handloading ammo.
The log says I just passed 12k loaded in 2016, so believe me when I say that I do my fair share at the bench.
But loading 5.56 for an AR is a task I would rather not do, and I know for certain that I absolutely love handloading.
I do load .223 for a bolt gun, I typically shoot this rifle a couple of times a year on the rifle range and then for 2-3 days on a varmint hunting trip out west. As it happens, I also own two AR's and while they are fun, I don't shoot them often... because handloading for them is -NOT- rewarding to me.
Lubing brass for F/L resizing and trim, chamfer and deburring is an awful bunch of tasks. Slow, obnoxious and makes my hands hurt. The net result is two-fold... I don't shoot my AR's much and I tend to buy ammo for that task rather than handloading ammo.
The log says I just passed 12k loaded in 2016, so believe me when I say that I do my fair share at the bench.
But loading 5.56 for an AR is a task I would rather not do, and I know for certain that I absolutely love handloading.5whiskey, I was fudging toward "underpromise,over deliver."
You can match my quotes easily on Midway,Natchez,Grafs,etc.
I get it cheaper,too. Sales,and qty discounts,etc.
And,I don't own it,but I have access to a Dillon 1050 with a case feeder,power trimmer,and primer pocket swage all in the process.We start with clean,deprimed brass.
You can match my quotes easily on Midway,Natchez,Grafs,etc.
I get it cheaper,too. Sales,and qty discounts,etc.
And,I don't own it,but I have access to a Dillon 1050 with a case feeder,power trimmer,and primer pocket swage all in the process.We start with clean,deprimed brass.
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Stats Shooter
New member
It Depends
If you are making match grade quality ammo, it is not only significantly cheaper, but you can get it down to 1/4 - 1/8 MOA with a little time and effort. I am seating my bullets beyond the max COAL in factory loads for my AR since 2.280 fits and feeds just fine from my magazines.
If you are making non-match grade, yet MOA or better ammon like for hunting, I find the most economical method to be: Buying Federal Lake City loaded ammo or similar quality for the brass, shooting it and having fun, then saving the brass. You can buy federal lake city ammo for $0.35/round with 55 or 62 grain bullets. Which is about the same price I make my match ammo for assuming the brass is free.
If you are just making bulk plinking "wolf grade" ammo, then just buy that stuff because it costs around $0.20 - $0.25 per round and is accurate enough to hit steel targets at 100, 200 or even 300 yards depending on the rifle.
Internet advice is what it is, but the question "Worth it?" is a relative question and the answer is not straight forward. In the end, you can buy wolf cheaper in .223 than you can make cheap ammo if lowest cost is your only motivation for reloading. But if some combination of cost and quality is your concern, then reloading is relatively cheaper provided you have the brass.
If you are making match grade quality ammo, it is not only significantly cheaper, but you can get it down to 1/4 - 1/8 MOA with a little time and effort. I am seating my bullets beyond the max COAL in factory loads for my AR since 2.280 fits and feeds just fine from my magazines.
If you are making non-match grade, yet MOA or better ammon like for hunting, I find the most economical method to be: Buying Federal Lake City loaded ammo or similar quality for the brass, shooting it and having fun, then saving the brass. You can buy federal lake city ammo for $0.35/round with 55 or 62 grain bullets. Which is about the same price I make my match ammo for assuming the brass is free.
If you are just making bulk plinking "wolf grade" ammo, then just buy that stuff because it costs around $0.20 - $0.25 per round and is accurate enough to hit steel targets at 100, 200 or even 300 yards depending on the rifle.
Internet advice is what it is, but the question "Worth it?" is a relative question and the answer is not straight forward. In the end, you can buy wolf cheaper in .223 than you can make cheap ammo if lowest cost is your only motivation for reloading. But if some combination of cost and quality is your concern, then reloading is relatively cheaper provided you have the brass.
See post #9 by Mississippi as it really depends on what you expect from the rifle. I load to make accurate ammunition as about all I do is target shoot. Truth be known I can buy bulk .223 Remington or 5.56mm NATO for less than I can load match quality ammunition. It won't shoot as well but it does shoot.
Ron
Ron
It depends on either the quality of ammo you wish to shoot, or the quantity of ammo you wish to shoot, and exactly how much you value your time.
My basic match load comes in at 27 cents per shot. That's LC Brass, Wolf milspec primer, PowerPro 2000-MR powder, and a 75gr BTHP bullet. You have to buy your components in relatively large lots to get the cost per trigger pull down that low.
I could get it lower if I used a cheaper powder and a cheaper bullet. I don't think I could get cheaper brass or primers though.
If you are happy with commercial 55gr FMJ plinking ammo, I recommend sticking with it.
Jimro
My basic match load comes in at 27 cents per shot. That's LC Brass, Wolf milspec primer, PowerPro 2000-MR powder, and a 75gr BTHP bullet. You have to buy your components in relatively large lots to get the cost per trigger pull down that low.
I could get it lower if I used a cheaper powder and a cheaper bullet. I don't think I could get cheaper brass or primers though.
If you are happy with commercial 55gr FMJ plinking ammo, I recommend sticking with it.
Jimro
Papajoe222
Inactive
Unless you have the other equipment, all you need to add are the dies.
If you shoot large quantities, it won't take long before the savings will pay for them. You will have the brass from the factory ammo you shoot, so then it's just the cost of the primers, powder and bullets plus the value of your time.
If you can purchase quality, factory ammo for less than that and you're satisfied with it......
If you shoot large quantities, it won't take long before the savings will pay for them. You will have the brass from the factory ammo you shoot, so then it's just the cost of the primers, powder and bullets plus the value of your time.
If you can purchase quality, factory ammo for less than that and you're satisfied with it......
I don't consider the cost of handloading anything. I just do it.
The results are always very rewarding to customize my ammo to each rifle that I own.
I don't have a 223 Rem anything, but if I did, I guarantee I would have tools and components to do so.
Back in yester year, I even made my own jacketed bullets mostly for target shooting. Now I just make lead bullets.
Matter of fact, the only thing I never wanted to handload is the rimfire rounds. I did think about it at one time though.
There is a guy over on the cast bullets forum that is shooting >3,000 fps with his 7mmBR with his cast handy work. I am venturing in that direction.
The results are always very rewarding to customize my ammo to each rifle that I own.
I don't have a 223 Rem anything, but if I did, I guarantee I would have tools and components to do so.
Back in yester year, I even made my own jacketed bullets mostly for target shooting. Now I just make lead bullets.
Matter of fact, the only thing I never wanted to handload is the rimfire rounds. I did think about it at one time though.
There is a guy over on the cast bullets forum that is shooting >3,000 fps with his 7mmBR with his cast handy work. I am venturing in that direction.
Pretty thoroughly covered in all of the previous posts, but here's my 2¢:
If you seek 55gr FMJ (also applies to 9x19mm 115g FMJ), just mail-order or buy it at Wal-Mart or your local gun shop.
For more exotic (ie. expensive) bullets, you can often do better reloading them yourself. Some bullet combinations are not readily available. What shop carries cast bullet loads in .308 Winchester, for example? How about frangibles in .303 British? You may be the only source for these.
Reloading is therapeutic to many, a task for others. Being among the former group, I reload 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R, even though surplus is still pretty cheap and available.
Often times I reload a caliber, just because I can.
If you seek 55gr FMJ (also applies to 9x19mm 115g FMJ), just mail-order or buy it at Wal-Mart or your local gun shop.
For more exotic (ie. expensive) bullets, you can often do better reloading them yourself. Some bullet combinations are not readily available. What shop carries cast bullet loads in .308 Winchester, for example? How about frangibles in .303 British? You may be the only source for these.
Reloading is therapeutic to many, a task for others. Being among the former group, I reload 7.62x39 and 7.62x54R, even though surplus is still pretty cheap and available.
Often times I reload a caliber, just because I can.
Average Joe
New member
I do it as a hobby, but really its not going to save you much after all the components you have to buy.... if you like reloading then go for it, if reloading is a chore for you , then just buy the cheap stuff .
Deaf Smith
New member
I have lots of .223 components.
Do I reload much? No. But if prices of ammo get out of hand I just reload using what I have and save lots of $$ as well as keep the factory stuff for serious use.
Deaf
Do I reload much? No. But if prices of ammo get out of hand I just reload using what I have and save lots of $$ as well as keep the factory stuff for serious use.
Deaf
armoredman
New member
I like reloading. So, I reload .223. It's a hobby with me that i can do indoors without causing noise and fuss. I can find factory ammo out there, even though it's more expensive per round with a more generic bullet. Right now having fun experimenting with the 55 and 50 gr Hornaday VMAX.