.223 reloading dies

I have both the standard die set and small base die set from RCBS, plus Lee’s die set. After sizing 10 cases using all three sets I measured the cases. There was a slight difference between the two sets from RCBS, but the interesting part is the Lee die measured exactly the same as the RCBS small base dies. This may just be the particular dies in my collection but just my experience.
 
RCBS told me their standard tolerance is 0.002", so it is easy to get a little overlap with some other brands. In theory, is the SB die actually is smaller, you will work your brass more and reach the stage where you may spy incipient head separations in fewer reloading cycles than with a standard die. But, again, that assumes nominal dimensions, and what you actually get has that element of uncertainty. Lee, for example, has a reputation for tending to be on the slightly wide side, but that's not what Jetinteriorguy got, so there is always the crapshoot element.

In principle, an AR with a tight match chamber will be the most likely to need a small base die. The fat breech end of the Wylde style 223 chamber is the least likely to need it. My approach is to start fat and narrow only as needed, not only because the reduced brass is working but also because the only times I've had cases of getting stuck in sizing dies (despite good lube) are when the brass came out of a fat chamber and into a small base die. Less sizing means less chance of encountering that issue.
 
In 6.5mm Grendel or 6mm ARC (same parent brass), small base die can cause something call "Grendel belt", which could shorten brass life significantly.

My Hornady sizing die has that problem. It has opening diameter of 0.434". It is currently on its way home from a trip to Hornady. I asked them to horn the opening to 0.438". I will see whether they did it or just sent me a new same die. If they don't want to horn the die, I will have no choice but to buy a Forster sizing die. It has 0.438" opening.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Unclenick said:
RCBS told me their standard tolerance is 0.002", so it is easy to get a little overlap with some other brands. In theory, is the SB die actually is smaller, you will work your brass more and reach the stage where you may spy incipient head separations in fewer reloading cycles than with a standard die. But, again, that assumes nominal dimensions, and what you actually get has that element of uncertainty. Lee, for example, has a reputation for tending to be on the slightly wide side, but that's not what Jetinteriorguy got, so there is always the crapshoot element.

In principle, an AR with a tight match chamber will be the most likely to need a small base die. The fat breech end of the Wylde style 223 chamber is the least likely to need it. My approach is to start fat and narrow only as needed, not only because the reduced brass is working but also because the only times I've had cases of getting stuck in sizing dies (despite good lube) are when the brass came out of a fat chamber and into a small base die. Less sizing means less chance of encountering that issue.
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So i have gotten hornady defense rounds stuck in the chamber of my AR pistol before. Gotta do a bad thing to get it out. I will see how the hornady dies chamber the rounds. Ive never had that issue with my full size, just the pistol. If they still do maybe the SB would be an option but ill cross that bridge when i get to it
 
The die arrived today. Tried it and saw improvement. The brass is no longer undersized.

Before they horned it, the die had opening diameter of 0.434". As per data disclosed by different die owners on other forum, it is same as rcbs SB die, which also tends to create "Grendel belt". Forster sizing die is known to be kosher. Its opening diameter is 0.438". So in this case SB die does harm.

To be fair, it should be no problem for 5.56 NATO. The brass' neck would split between 5-10 loads anyway. SB die probably won't have chance to show its effects on overworked brass. Besides 5.56 brass is practically free. Let it over work.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
The brass' neck would split between 5-10 loads anyway. SB die probably won't have chance to show its effects on overworked brass. Besides 5.56 brass is practically free. Let it over work.
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This is why I started using the SB die. I figured I had nothing to loose.

As far as a stuck case goes (per Unclenick's post), I proceed slowly when I size. I am in no hurry. There have been quiet a few times where I start to size and it just doesn't feel right. Back it out, add some lube (usually on my fingers anyway) and I'm good to go.

I've never stuck a case. That's not to brag; but rather, that I feel lucky.
 
I thought the same as mentioned above about not needing a SB die. Then I picked up a bunch of LC cases in both 308 and 223. WE do a LOT of hog hunting, and I saw no reason to loose nice brass while out stomping though the underbrush and river bottoms.

First time a fat based 308 round ruined a hunting trip was with my bolt action Ruger, when I shoved a round almost into the chamber. It stuck so tight we couldn't knock it out with a cleaning rod. I had to take it to a friend who had some long brass rod so we could knock it out.

Second time, I was loading my first handloads into my then new AR-10 and when I hit the bolt release it stopped about 1/4" shy of fully closing. It was a pain to get the bolt back but I managed. No more after that. I pulled 200 rounds and ran them all through a SB die and they all ran fine after that.

Same deal with the .223, but to a lesser degree. The bolt didn't fully chamber the round but it was much easier to remove. I also only had a couple loaded as dummy rounds to check it.

So those who have NEVER had any issues, must have primarily only shot factory loaded, or loaded new factory cases, and then used their same cases, or their chambers are sloppier than mine. I could also see range pick ups working fine, but not worth the chance for me. Everything but new brass, or factory loaded gets the SB treatment.

My advice, if you plan on trying to save some money and pick up disposable cases like range brass or bulk once fired LC, do yourself a favor and run them through the SB die first. After that long s you keep track of them you should good to go. I DO NOT use the SB die every time, but any once fired cases I purchase, I make sure that is the first die they see.

In most cases any once fired brass from a full auto service firearm is going to need a bit more extra sizing than a commercial civilian firearm. but that is why it was cheaper in the first place. For a long time it was easily attainable and cheap as well. Could say anymore but i see LEO range brass offered on occasions.
 
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