223/556 reload`

Shooting isn't the only hobby where the extra distribution and middlemen involved make it cheaper to buy some stuff ready made. I remember when Heathkit TV's got more expensive than off-the-shelf TV's, and wondered how they were staying in business (ultimately, they didn't). In shooting, it was shotgun shells that first became as expensive to reload as the bargain bulk shell purchases are to buy.

The commercial ammunition maker buys his powder and primers and bullets direct from their factories. He doesn't pay for it to be trucked to the national distributor, who makes a margin, and trucked from him to the regional distributors, who make a margin, and trucked from them to the retailers who make a margin. He just pays the factory's margin and gets it all in bulk and doesn't pay to have it neatly packaged into small containers (another big expense and shipping space hog). His powder is bulk grade, which he does need a pressure gun to evaluate, but thereby avoids the cost of having the powder blended to control the burn rate to fit recipes in books. Plus, he buys very large quantities. Economy of scale.

The handloader can minimize cost with purchasing larger quantities as well. I almost never buy fewer than 5,000 primers at a time, fewer than 1000 pieces of new brass, less than 8 lb's powder or fewer than 2000 bullets. The only exceptions are smaller quantities to try out. The best buys I've been part of in the past have been group factory buys of components: a pallet of primers, 50K of the same match bullet, etc. Then prices looked very much more favorable. The trick is getting the group to agree on what to buy before you buy it. 50K is a sort of magic number. It's the minimum that Starline wants, for example, to put a custom headstamp on brass. But if you can find 25 club members each willing to buy 2K, you can cut a better deal.

Your observation about the relative cost of rifle bullets is interesting. I will mention they are being fired in guns 5-10 times more precise than a handgun typically is. They have to hold up to higher acceleration, both linear and angular (rotational). But I suspect it is the precision element in forming the jackets that costs you more. Call Hornady or Sierra with your point about comparative costs and see what they say.
 
Your observation about the relative cost of rifle bullets is interesting. I will mention they are being fired in guns 5-10 times more precise than a handgun typically is. They have to hold up to higher acceleration, both linear and angular (rotational). But I suspect it is the precision element in forming the jackets that costs you more. Call Hornady or Sierra with your point about comparative costs and see what they say.

Why would I do that? I'm not talking about some secret motive behind loaded ammunition, I'm simply talking 1st Grade economics. The difference between loaded ammunition and handloaded ammunition, after you factor everything in, is $X amount. Does that amount pay for your time and effort? It's as simple as that... nothing nefarious here.

I haven't seriously considered reloading any reasonable quantity of 5.56mm or 9mm ammunition in 25 years. Why? Because the money I would save does not offset the amount... the value, if you will... of my time to load it. Now, if we are talking .348WCF, .41Mag, .45ACP, and a host of other cartridges... then, yes, the cost offset is worth the value of my time.... or so I have established for myself.
 
DrMajor:



I've been reloading for 30 years, but just started reloading for AR15. It has been the biggest PIA so far. Wildcat cartridges have been easier. I've busted 3 primer pins in 3 loading session. I had to purchase a primer pocket reamer [thanks to all the great info I got here] and am looking into another set up dies [small base.]



In the Thompson Center Contender, I did not notice severe stretching and almost none in the 7mm TC/U. Case trimmer I have is a modified [drill operated] RCBS.



You'll need to chamfer after trimming.



It is the ONLY cartridge that I am honestly considering to simply purchase new ammo :-)



Clearly, I'm still in the learning/gear acquisition category for the 223. Once it all gets worked out, discard military primed brass, trim all cases, decrimp all cases, chamfer all cases, find the right load..... It'll be swell



Rick



If you decide to keep mil brass. You'll need swaging tool. I bought Dillion swaging tool. Mil brass crimp removal can be a pain. Extra work involved to get primer pocket right to seat new primers.


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Northof50 I have been looking at reloading 223/556 for AR shooting and the more I'm looking at what is involved the more I'm thinking the same as you. All the money I'm saving loading my handguns might be better spent just buying new 223/556 when on sale.
 
Great. Buy your cheap sale ammo to make holes in paper. Many of us that reload are not doing it only to save money. We may spend more than you. But I can load 65 gr hunting bullets and push them past 3200 fps. You cant buy those as loaded ammo. Or 36 gr varmint grenades at 3600. Or 75 gr HPBT for shooting steel plates at 600+ yards.Or 12 g 1 1/8 oz at 1400 fps.
Yes, I do sometimes buy loaded ammo. 55 gr fmj or 147 fmj, for no purpose beyond ringing steel plates. That is more about time than money.
Your will never save enough reloading to compensate you for your time.
 
Here’s the thing, each round I handload, is the same
Each powder change is the same..ect
Can’t fairly match that to American eagle black box(or what ever color it is now)
 
Carriertxv - I'm new here, and have written this several times, but I've been reloading for 30 years. In all honesty, I believe in all that time, I've only purchased 10 boxes of new ammo [not including my CCW carry ammo]. All shooting has been hand loads. Since starting with the 223 a few weeks ago, I really am at a point in which boxed just might be better- for the 223

Reloading, on a progressive machine, can be extremely efficient with respect to cost, time and energy. The 223 is the first that removes all three thus far.

Marco - Cannot agree with your last statement. I enjoy the process of reloading. It is both relaxing, yet [if done correctly] helps concentration. I primarily shoot "sub-max" loads; plated, cast and FMJ. I also load hunting rounds for my pistols. Over the long hall, not only have I saved a ton on ammo, but have shot more and extended the life of my firearms. Like you, I love the fact that I can load stuff you cannot buy [10mm for example as well as numerous wildcats] I also think you get a far better understanding of the entire shooting process by reloading.
 
I haven't bought factory handgun ammo for a long time as I reload for all of them. I have 2000 plus 223/557 cases of various head stamps that I keep after shooting(though I know many have much more) but for the amount I shoot out of my cheap AR I'm just not sure its going to be worth the expense and grief to reload for it.
I am however going to get a decent bolt 223 rifle and may start getting serious about reloading some for it as that will be on a much smaller scale.
 
Carriertxv-

In all honesty, the biggest issue is decapping and reaming out the primer pockets. Once that's done, it is no different than any other case. It seems you have the choice of swaging or reaming the primer pocket. I chose the reamer from RCBS. In my thread "...decapping pin 223" there is a great link for a heavy duty decapping die.

Like you, I purchased an inexpensive AR [S&W Sport II - love it], as well as a T/C Contender in 223 & 7 TC/U. - Never had an issue loading until I started picking up brass from the range. I purchased the Contender barrels used about 25 years ago. They came with 500 223 cases.

Good luck.
 
Most of what we reload depends on the purpose of that round.
I kill a lot of paper and load on a budget.
I can load a Hornady 55gr BT FMJ, with CFE 223 powder and a S&B Primer for .17 each.
223 ammo has come down lately but I can still do it for less than the cost of new.
Brass is basically free, friends that don't reload etc.
Time is more precious and limited for some more than others, you'll need to make that decision based on your circumstances.

Here is my process:
size and decap
swage - if it's not my brass
wet clean
trim, chamfer and debur - Trim-It II - all done a once
prime on a progressive
charge and seat bullet on a progressive - the last two are done separately, it's just easier for me that way
Check all rounds in a Lyman case gauge

I shoot a Stag piston AR and the cases don't seem to stretch much.
I do anneal after 3 - 5 firings
Dinged up cases get tossed

This is just the way I do it and I enjoy it.
 
Some of us shoot so we can reload it seems, some of us reload so we can shoot. Some love both so much there's no questions. I'm on the side that looks for economics. If I were shooting those 65 gr hunting bullets or 36 gr "varmint grenades" then no question I would grin and bear it. Now that .223 has gotten so reasonably priced, I'll probably continue to collect brass and components when I can, but shoot a lot of commercial. There's no right or wrong choice, it's just a personal one.
 
I wanted an Off Hand rifle. Bolt Acton to compete with.

I have a 222. This time I bought a 223. Cheap to reload, cheaper to shoot factory junk. If I can deal with 1.5" @ 100 yards, its ok. Better factory ammo gets me 1" for a few dollars more.
Hand loads get me down to 1/2" on a good day with V max bullets. This rifle shoots spire points or tipped bullets better than FMJ.

Its all in what I want to do.

I have 600 brass trimmed ready to load. It was a LOT of work.

Been shooting factory stuff like 55 fmj for $8.00 a box of 20. I buy what has boxer primers so it saves a step.

I can load 223 on the Dillon once the cases are prepped the first time.

22-250 takes 40 grains powder, 223 takes 25. Again depends on what I am doing.

Enjoy your adventure.
David
 
Don't buy expensive cartridge cases. Buy once fired LC cases and save a bunch of money. The vast majority of my brass is from fired military rounds. The best military brass i've found is from TW made ammunition dated in the 1960s.

Been reloading .223/5.56mm ammo since the mid 1960s. Currently re-loading for several rifles. All cases for reloads intended for AR-15 rifles are full length re-sized.


My case preparation is done in batches of 100-500. Cases are de-primed and primer pockets are reamed with a de-burring tool. Cases are then trimmed and cleaned. The primer pocket for my accuracy loads are uniformed. The cases are then re-primed. There is always a supply of primed cases on hand.

i don't bother with annealing because the cases go away after two or three re-loads.

i'm blessed with a very large supply of .5.56mm ammunition obtained many years ago for little or nothing: Can't recall buying a box of .223/5.56mm ammunition.

BTW: Think about IMR 3031 for use with bullets of 62 grain or less. Been using IMR 3031 since about 1968, it's my go to powder for .223/5.56mm.
 
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