.22 Automatic Recommendations?

Here's what I purchased:

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If I was purchasing new I would have opted for Stainless and adjustable sights,(in the MK IV of course), but I got a very good deal on this and it will do me just fine.

Thanks all of you for your thoughts.
 

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your choices are like reading off a menu at a fast food joint. they all look different but the taste is about the same.
if you want a steak, try looking at some real American iron like an old high standard. they are known as the finest 22's ever made. most are 50-60 years old and can still shoot circles around your fast food menu.
do a search and note all the levels of cost and options. youll never look back.

but I see im too late.
good luck. enjoy your big mac.
 
Take a look at Majestic Speed Strip Kits. They cure the take down and reassembly headache.
Midway list part # 822765 Basic Kit and 243182 more advanced kit, and I belive they have another version with most of the trigger components included.

I bought the basic kit, then I got my brother and oldest son the kits for Christmas several years ago. You will really like your Mk III with this kit installed in it. Take out one allen screw, and slide the bolt out. Slide the bolt back in, and reinstall the bolt.
You skip the hour on You Tube figuring out all the steps to putting the MK III back together.

In my opinion the MK IV will be a huge improvement in the MK Series pistols.

Bob
 
My Buck Mark is my most accurate handgun of many. A friend was looking to get a good 22 auto and immediately chose a Buck Mark after he shot mine. He has been very pleased with his purchase.

My FiL's Ruger Mark II is every bit as good.

I haven't shot a Smith 22 auto. All of the other ones I have shot pale in comparison to the Browning and Ruger.
 
Take a look at Majestic Speed Strip Kits. They cure the take down and reassembly headache. Midway list part # 822765 Basic Kit and 243182 more advanced kit, and I belive they have another version with most of the trigger components included.
I've been looking at those kits. Since my Chiefs played last night (woot!), I have the afternoon to view YouTube and see if I can become proficient at stripping the thing. If not, I'll definitely be looking for one of those kits.

I've got an excellent LGS - if the trigger needs work I'll definitely tap him for it. I'll be sure to ask him if that more complete kit gets me anything that he can't do with the stock parts. It needs final fitting anyway (or so it says) and I'm not confident enough to do that myself no matter how easy it is.
 
on a good note, you have an early red eagle grip gun. it switched to black to mourn the death of mr. ruger.
q: when you shoot your last shot, does your bolt stay open?
 
Im a ruger fan but I would go for the MK III. Let them work the bugs out of the MK IV. There are alot of aftermarket stuff for the ruger if you get the mind to tune it up. They are harder to take apart and clean but once you have done it a few time its not bad.

I have shot my friends buckmark and it was alot of fun to shoot. No issues.
 
I'd avoid the new Mk IVs.

Myriads of problems, recalls, and they are breaking down at an alarming rate. Loaded with design flaws.
 
on a good note, you have an early red eagle grip gun. it switched to black to mourn the death of mr. ruger.
Interesting, thanks for pointing that out. I had no idea.

Wiki says:
After Alex Sturm’s death in 1951, William B. Ruger continued to direct the company until his death in 2002.
By serial number, this pistol was manufactured in 2008 - neither of those dates coincides with the manufacture date. Maybe these are just a retro offering?

q: when you shoot your last shot, does your bolt stay open?
I assume it stays open since it will remain open when I pull back the bolt on an empty mag. I have not shot it yet.
 
I shot compeitive bullseye with a ruger Mk I for many, many years.
It was the later Mark I with the A100 frame, so same as the Ruger Mark II frame except for the bolt release.

For years I did not know that there was a hold open button. It did not stay open after the last shot, but you could keep the bolt open with the safety button. Pull the bolt to the rear and move the safety into position and the bolt will stay open manually. You have to move the safety to fire to releaase the bolt manually.

The mag follower button is on the left side like all the later mark series. The pre A100 frame models like the early Mark I's have the mag pull down button on the right side. Screw holes are opposite.

Yours looks to be the Ruger Mark III standard shorter barrel as this one on Gun Broker:
http://www.gunsinternational.com/gu...uto-pistol-22-long-rifle.cfm?gun_id=100935669
Mark III because of the mag release button. It does have the hold open after the last shot.
 
reason im alerting you is im pretty sure you can lose count and after 10 shots you cant tell if youre empty if the bolt doesn't stay open. the result is....you squeeze off another one and click. hammer falls on the firing pin and it strikes the empty chamber rim. do it enough, and itll cause brass to jam in the chamber. check your chamber rim now....and see if its dented. there is a special tool thatll push that dent out if you do.
 
reason im alerting you is im pretty sure you can lose count and after 10 shots you cant tell if youre empty if the bolt doesn't stay open. the result is....you squeeze off another one and click. hammer falls on the firing pin and it strikes the empty chamber rim. do it enough, and itll cause brass to jam in the chamber. check your chamber rim now....and see if its dented. there is a special tool thatll push that dent out if you do.
I checked the chamber and it looks brand new. This guy really must have taken care of it.

Still haven't shot it. First time may be Xmas eve at the in-laws.
 
The difficult takedown and assembly is overblown completely. The internet amplifier at work.

True story.

It's hard to make any case against the Ruger Mark II/III/IV or Browning Buckmark as a first .22LR pistol.

They are both light-years ahead of any of the potmetal rimfire pistols (Sig Mosquito, Walther/Umarex P22, etc.).
 
id put my '100 series-to current' high standard up against a timed takedown with anything. 5 seconds last time a checked. 10 seconds if im rusty. ;>
 
lbussy...keep track of your shots! don't click on an empty chamber.

actually, it doesn't harm the Ruger Mark III series to dry fire.
And being a Mark III, it will hold open on the last shot.
See my post above referring to an identical standard for sale on Gunbroker.
It's not an original early Mark I.
 
ok, now I see it. post 51. I was going by the 50's grips. did they remake the early gun as a retro run recently? are the mk3's marked...mk3?
 
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You cannot go by just the grips.
Here is the photo from GunInternational:
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First you notice that it has a bolt release. The Mark I series did not have one. Second, you can see that it has a magazine release button by the trigger guard. This was implemented with the Mark III series. The Mark II still has the mag release at the bottom. Third, you can see the "read instruction manual" at the rear of the bolt housing. This indicates it is a recent model. Forth, the OP's gun has the cutouts for gripping the bolt. The original does not. Both the OP's gun and the one from Gunbroker advertised as Mark III look identical.
If you do a google search on Ruger MK III standard, you will see that they all have the red eagle old style grips on them with the taper barrel.
http://www.guns.com/reviews/ruger-mark-iii-standard/
 

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