1st test of labradar

I've had mine a year now and thousands of rounds measured by it. No issues at all! I use a auxiliary power pack like what is used for cell phones, works perfect.
 
Actually, I've run into a couple of "issues" already--looks like my honeymoon may be over. lol

I went out and tested a couple of new loads for my AR47. After setting everything up--I couldn't get any shots from the first ladder to be recorded by the unit--seemingly no matter what I did. I positioned the rifle in what I thought was exactly the same way as I did my creedmoor build, but nothing would record--even when I backed the muzzle to within 6 inches of the sensor. I never got the "couldn't acquire" error read-out. (I've read the instructions through repeatedly). The unit basically sat there waiting for a shot.

I finally moved the barrel closer to the unit laterally--meaning the barrel itself was only a couple of inches to the side of the sensor--and then the unit successfully started to acquire and record the shots. I'll have to repeat the entire ladder of shots.

Another issue: while testing a ladder of hand-loads I like to start a new series for each different load since each set of cartridges have different charge weights. Try as I might--I couldn't figure out how to start a new series from the screen that was currently recording one--there was no way to get back to the menu screen and then push the series button to start a new series without turning the unit off and restarting it--unless I'm missing something. Unclenick??
 
So I just got off the phone with Richard at TCK LLC who very kindly and patiently answered my questions. :D

Point one; the existing manual is a little shy on up-to-date info--the ability to trigger a record is dependent on the unit achieving and surpassing the "shockwave impulse threshold" from the muzzle--I mistakenly was following the image in the manual which placed the off-set in front of the unit--rather than the side, so I will try that out next time.

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Then I whined about the necessity of restarting the unit in order to start a new series while in an existing series window--the "secret decoder ring" :D formula is depress and hold the arm button for 3 seconds and it will enable you to go from a current series to the menu option allowing a new series to be created.

All is good in the jungle again.;)
 

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I created an Excel macro for my LBR data. It formats the data to make it look better, and does the actual calculations in real time rather than just using the LBR calculations.

The reason for for the real time calculations is that I have had a time or two when an extra piece of data will be captured, possibly from another shooter.

For example, I will shoot 10 rounds, and when I look at the data, there are 11 pieces of data, with the 11th string obviously off from the rest. I can now delete the 11th shot, and all of the data fields are recalculated automatically in real time.

I also created spaces to enter the load and weather data, which helps my old brain remember what I shot!

I added a button to the tool bar that runs the macro, so I just load the LBR data, press the button, and VOILA! Instant format!!! :)

The box outlined in red below (I added that in Paint, it is not in the actual spreadsheet obviously) is the section that I use to copy and paste into forum posts when I am posting results from load testing. You can see that data posted below the image.

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Copy and pasted data:

Bullet Type: RMR JHP
Bullet Weight: 124
Powder: TG
Weight: 4.1
COAL: 1.06
Primer: CCI 500
Case: Mixed

Stats - Average 1054.00
Stats - Highest 1072.00
Stats - Lowest 1026.00
Stats - Ext. Spread 46.00
Stats - Std. Dev 15.72

Avg Power Factor 129.58
 
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It's not "real time" as in when you are shooting, as the data and the Labradar's stat calculations are coming off the memory card after the shooting session is done. What he means is that, rather than being stuck with the stats the Labradar recorded on the card, he set Excel up to calculate the same stats directly from the velocity data, so that if you alter a piece of data the whole sheet recalculates the stats on the fly (Excel's normal mode of operation, though you can also force a recalculation any time with the F9 key). This allows him to identify erroneous data and eliminate it and get automatically updated stats that are correct for the remaining data only, and that no longer include the error.
 
It's not "real time" as in when you are shooting, as the data and the Labradar's stat calculations are coming off the memory card after the shooting session is done. What he means is that, rather than being stuck with the stats the Labradar recorded on the card, he set Excel up to calculate the same stats directly from the velocity data, so that if you alter a piece of data the whole sheet recalculates the stats on the fly (Excel's normal mode of operation, though you can also force a recalculation any time with the F9 key). This allows him to identify erroneous data and eliminate it and get automatically updated stats that are correct for the remaining data only, and that no longer include the error.
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Got it--I used to program database-driven websites so I understand the linking of mathematical formulas as data checks and populators of cells.
 
It's not "real time" as in when you are shooting, as the data and the Labradar's stat calculations are coming off the memory card after the shooting session is done. What he means is that, rather than being stuck with the stats the Labradar recorded on the card, he set Excel up to calculate the same stats directly from the velocity data, so that if you alter a piece of data the whole sheet recalculates the stats on the fly (Excel's normal mode of operation, though you can also force a recalculation any time with the F9 key). This allows him to identify erroneous data and eliminate it and get automatically updated stats that are correct for the remaining data only, and that no longer include the error.
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Yes, that is exactly it.

A much better explanation than I gave! Thank you!
 
As I understand it when you download the files from the card you have a CVS file and an XLS file for each bank of shots. The XLS file has a range and velocity for each blip of the radar. In that file you also get energy, power factor and all the other calculations for each blip. All you need to do is open it with a spreadsheet and it's all there.
 
Midway has them on sale for $60 off. You can also get them on sale direct through the manufacturer for $60 off. Couldn't resist and ordered one. I'll probably be in the dog house for a while.
 
I haven't been able to get out for a while--I lost access to the range I usually go to so it may be a while before I get to shoot again. Be sure to mount a tube doohickie into the sight slot on the top of the unit (as recommended in the video on the manufacturer's website). Before testing hand-loads, have some "dummy" cartridges to ensure the unit will successfully acquire (usually a question of the muzzle blast's directional impulse being able to successfully trigger the unit assuming it is pointed properly at your target). My experience so far has been that barrels lacking a muzzle device--and those that have one but most of the blast goes forward or side/forward (like a typical AR flash suppressor and many compensators)--usually need to be positioned fairly close to the unit in terms of the front plane of the unit. Brakes that use the blast to dampen recoil seem to be the opposite--big boomers should be placed further forward (or even have a deflector according to the manual).

Generally speaking, the smaller and faster the projectile--the less distance the unit will track it--but my unit sometimes manages to acquire and track a 6mm creed load of mine doing around 3200 fps to 75 yds--even though the manual clearly says it should only get it out to 50.

I've had a few hick-ups learning the best muzzle positions for each weapon--but otherwise am very pleased with the labradar.
 
Thanks for that tip.

I was watching some of the videos and it they said to keep the tip of the barrel even with the Labradar if rifle doesn't have a muzzle device. What's your experience? The guy in this video has his Savage 6.5 well in front of the device. I hope that works since my Savage 10T barrel is 24" and is longer than the benches at my range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP9ZMkMxEyc
 
Thanks for that tip.

I was watching some of the videos and it they said to keep the tip of the barrel even with the Labradar if rifle doesn't have a muzzle device. What's your experience? The guy in this video has his Savage 6.5 well in front of the device. I hope that works since my Savage 10T barrel is 24" and is longer than the benches at my range.
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I've only had the unit out a few times--so I'm hardly an expert, but I would say that's accurate--assuming the muzzle blast mostly goes to the front. The power of the cartridge has some role as well. It sounds a bit counter-intuitive, according to one of their engineers you may need some distance from the muzzle to the unit in order to get a clear impulse to trigger the unit--as opposed to one that is too close that "envelops" the unit. That said--I can't get my 44 mag carbine to trigger the unit without the muzzle being very close to the front plane of the unit--the same for most smaller caliber AR15 platforms using conventional suppressors and compensators. My AR 10 builds, however, generally send enough of an impulse back that I have no problems with muzzle being out in front of the unit. I can't say for sure--but I'm guessing the behavior of the sound waves at the muzzle doesn't necessarily match the exhaust blast--but that speculation is way above my pay grade so I would defer to others with real fizziks knowledge.:)

Generally speaking, I think there's a learning curve for figuring out what positions work best for what particular weapon, so don't freak out--as I did :o--if you drop some shots at first. If the unit prints a screen that says "error to acquire" (or whatever the exact words are) that means you have a problem with the aiming of the radar relative to the target. If it just sits there without recording the shot--that means your muzzle position is not allowing the impulse to trigger the unit.

PS--I don't recommend shooting from inside a doghouse. :D
 
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I saw one of these in action at the range the other day and I must admit it is a slick idea. The owner spoke highly of the customer service and said the only problems he has heard of is that they are a bit delicate and the padded carry case is a must. His first one stopped working but was promptly replaced and he had no complaints

Every time I think of replacing my old optical chrony I ask myself, will this help me in my quest for smaller groups or just a fancy toy to impress the boys at the range ? I always decide the money would be better spent on upgrading my guns or reloading equipment.
 
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Every time I think of replacing my old optical chrony I ask myself, will this help me in my quest for smaller groups or just a fancy toy to impress the boys at the range ? I always decide the money would be better spent on upgrading my guns or reloading equipment.
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Good question--if you're not OCD about load development--you could probably live without it.:D I am--to a degree anyway, so it's well worth it for me. The tracking spread over a range is very interesting too to me--not just muzzle velocity.
 
I've held off buying a chrony due to setup hassle plus a fear I would destroy it. Almost pulled the trigger on the Magneto Speed. But held off due to the POI change and more difficult to setup. But this purchase is to gain knowledge on how consistent my reloads are and know their velocity.
 
Good question--if you're not OCD about load development--you could probably live without it. I am--to a degree anyway, so it's well worth it for me. The tracking spread over a range is very interesting too to me--not just muzzle velocity.
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heh you are talking to the guy who anneals after every firing, keeps his cases within .002 of each other and double seats his primers to ensure they are all .003 below the case head. I love my load development but ballistics programs give me all the down range data I need as long as I know within 50 FPS of what it is at the muzzle. Everything I need to know about the consistency will be told by the group spread on the target

Is my old 100 dollar CE accurate ? Accurate enough for me, I was shooting at 600 last week, added 8 MOA and was within .25 MOA (2 inches) at 800. One day I will get a Labradar , after seeing one in action it will definitely be my next chrono. But at the moment a new stock, new scope and possibly a non .223 AR15 upper are all on my wish list ahead of it. 600 dollars buys a lot of powder and bullets and in my opinion the best way for me to improve my shooting at the moment is to send as many bullets down range a week as I can.
 
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