1911 Trigger Take up

"Numb-Sculls"

erh--name calling. Isn't this the Firingline forum?


I suggest that you send an apology to Bob Londrigan who posted the following on his site: http://www.brazoscustom.com/magart/0407.htm, a link to which was provided on this thread.

While you are at it, I suggest that you contact Jack Weigand (a guild member), who posted the following: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/GunTech/NewsletterArchive.aspx?p=0&t=1&i=349 and advise him that he is also a "numb scull" for putting this dangerous information on the web. Finally, you may wish to send an apology to Bob Hunter of Hunter Customs who posted on this thread.


I recall this forum being one where information was freely shared. Apparently, in the past few years a number of "bullys" have appeared who feel they must protect the public from information. They don't add anything to the discussion and only serve to further inflate their egos. Sad that such behavior is tolerated by the moderators.
 
TravelerBT,

Without getting into the controversy, let me throw out a caution. A lot of bullseye shooters, in particular, prefer a very light trigger. Back when I was still active in bullseye (early to mid 80's), standard practice was to keep the trigger pulled while you depressed the slide stop to let the slide go forward to chamber a round. This keeps the disconnector from popping up and letting the trigger bow contact the sear through it until after everything comes to rest, same as when firing a round. These light trigger guns can fire during loading if you don't take that precaution. Don't ask how I know.

The problem, as the experienced 'smiths will find all too familiar, especially with the massive steel Gold Cup triggers more common back then, resulted from the slide's inertia jerking the frame forward when the gun locks into battery. Called "hammer following", if the trigger press weight is too light, it's mechanism can't pass the forward momentum to the trigger without dropping the hammer. This is why that massive steel Goldcup trigger requires a little spring-loaded sear buffer.

The low mass of modern skeletonized aluminum and composite triggers have largely mitigated this problem, especially for standard width triggers with no shoe added. However, I am still in the habit of testing 1911 mechanisms for it. I hold and balance them, unloaded (double-checked), tilting muzzle-up in counterbattery, by pinching the mainspring housing retaining pin between my thumb and index finger. I then depress the slidestop with my other hand. I repeat several times. If the hammer ever falls when the slide goes home, I don't consider the gun safe for general use.

My point in mentioning all this is, the longer the take-up in the trigger, the more distance the disconnector spring leaf has over which to assist in overcoming trigger inertia before it pushes against the sear. The more you reduce take-up, the more likely hammer following is to occur. Obviously, the lighter you make the trigger, the more concerned you need to be about it. As a precaution, do the test and see what happens? I advise against reducing take-up unless it bothers you or interferes with getting your finger promptly into the trigger guard while bringing the gun up on target. It typically is more bothersome if you choose a long trigger over the standard length ones because this gives your finger a smaller opening to find.

Nick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top