1911 Stripped Grip Screw
- Thread starter longshank
- Start date
Another good argument for using slotted head screws, like Browning did...
Also, if your grip screws are so tight, something isn't right.
EZ out, drill, grinder, files, all can be used. Another trick is grinding down the next size larger allen wrench, (bit by bit) until it can be driven into the buggered up screw head. (this is key, if you grind it small enough that it "fits" it will slip and you go nowhere, it has to be tight to grip in a rounded off hole.)
Good Luck.
Also, if your grip screws are so tight, something isn't right.
EZ out, drill, grinder, files, all can be used. Another trick is grinding down the next size larger allen wrench, (bit by bit) until it can be driven into the buggered up screw head. (this is key, if you grind it small enough that it "fits" it will slip and you go nowhere, it has to be tight to grip in a rounded off hole.)
Good Luck.
Smoke & Recoil
New member
Also try metric allen keys. Okay, here's the dirty word Dremaltool, cut a slot in
the head, then put a slotted bit in your drill press if you have one, apply downward
pressure while turning the chuck by HAND...don't turn the press on !
the head, then put a slotted bit in your drill press if you have one, apply downward
pressure while turning the chuck by HAND...don't turn the press on !
This one was very tight but I've never had those grips off so not sure why 3 came out fine and one didn't. Thanks for the help guys! I'll see how it goes...Another good argument for using slotted head screws, like Browning did...
Also, if your grip screws are so tight, something isn't right.
EZ out, drill, grinder, files, all can be used. Another trick is grinding down the next size larger allen wrench, (bit by bit) until it can be driven into the buggered up screw head. (this is key, if you grind it small enough that it "fits" it will slip and you go nowhere, it has to be tight to grip in a rounded off hole.)
Good Luck.
The last one out will always be the tightest. You've relieved all the tension by removing the other screws which means that the one left in will be holding more tension than normal.
When you're removing multiple screws that you expect to be tight, break each one loose before removing any of them. This minimizes the effect.
Also, grip screws aren't supposed to be on super tight. If they come out when you don't want them to, use some temporary type threadlocker on them rather than cranking the screw down tighter. The best case scenario with overtightened screws is ruining the screw--you can also crack the grips or strip the frame.
You can try putting the other screw back in and tightening it down before you start working on removing the stripped one.
Sometimes putting the wrench back into the screw and tapping it straight in with a hammer, like you're driving a nail, will break things loose. Just don't go nuts with the hammer. There is stuff that can be damaged.
Sometimes you can find a torx bit that is close to the right size--but just a tiny bit larger--and tap it into the screw to get a tight fit and remove it that way. Figure that you may ruin the torx bit that way though.
I've never tried this stuff, but it might help. It's a product called Screw Grab that supposedly increases friction between the tool and the screw.
tango1niner
New member
If all else fails a rigid set-up and a left handed spiral drill will probably do it. Done it lots of times and it works well.
I thought Ed Brown 1911s used Torx grip screws. If so, it's no wonder you stripped the Allen wrench.The trick is not making a little problem a bigger problem.I have no idea what tooling you have access to. Cutting a screwdriver slot is an option.
There are grip screw bushings in the grip frame. Generally they are staked in.The threads in the frame are very fine,56 tpi,maybe? not sure.
Note the grip screw bushings have a ferrule sticking up the grip panel stacks on.Screw head should stop on the grip panel. Not good to tighten it down on the bushing. Those screws should be gently tightened.But it is what it is.
You have the possibility the bushing will unscrew.If its staked,it will probably trash the threads in the grip frame. The special .005 oversize tap is about $65 at Brownells.
I might cut a brass pin just over the inside width of the mag well,small enough to slip through the grip screw bushing.The idea being to slip it through the frame and start a grip screw on the other side.That brass pin can put an end load on the stuck screw.Not much,just "some" to take some of the "stuck" force off.Use the short end of the allen wrench for the handle.
This may not help.It unloads the screw head/bushing,but puts more load on the threads.
I might GENTLY apply a couple of small "C" clamps over the grip panel and frame to unload the screw.
The higher quality multi-bit drivers can be case hardened better than the average allen wrench. A little Relton Rapid Tap fluid or some good penetrating oil might help.
You might goober a grip panel but a Dremel type abrasive cut off wheel will cut a screwdriver slot. Don't cut too deep.
There are grip screw bushings in the grip frame. Generally they are staked in.The threads in the frame are very fine,56 tpi,maybe? not sure.
Note the grip screw bushings have a ferrule sticking up the grip panel stacks on.Screw head should stop on the grip panel. Not good to tighten it down on the bushing. Those screws should be gently tightened.But it is what it is.
You have the possibility the bushing will unscrew.If its staked,it will probably trash the threads in the grip frame. The special .005 oversize tap is about $65 at Brownells.
I might cut a brass pin just over the inside width of the mag well,small enough to slip through the grip screw bushing.The idea being to slip it through the frame and start a grip screw on the other side.That brass pin can put an end load on the stuck screw.Not much,just "some" to take some of the "stuck" force off.Use the short end of the allen wrench for the handle.
This may not help.It unloads the screw head/bushing,but puts more load on the threads.
I might GENTLY apply a couple of small "C" clamps over the grip panel and frame to unload the screw.
The higher quality multi-bit drivers can be case hardened better than the average allen wrench. A little Relton Rapid Tap fluid or some good penetrating oil might help.
You might goober a grip panel but a Dremel type abrasive cut off wheel will cut a screwdriver slot. Don't cut too deep.
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If the head came off and the escutcheon did not, soak the thing in a penetrating oil for a couple of days and try just drilling it out. The escutcheons threads run clear through to the inside on mine, so if the drill catches on the screw, it should just drive it through to fall out in the mag well. If there is still any screw head left to prevent that, you may be able to drill it through from the opposing side's escutcheon to drive it out, but you will want to protect the opposing escutcheon's threads with a little shim stock around the drill bit.