1911 Slide release problem- PLEASE help

[Aguila Blanca]

Brawnell's sells a long drill bit with what amounts to a tiny ball endmill on the end, you take the detent and spring out, position the drill through the detent housing and carefully cut a detent nest with the SS down, just a tiny one is all that is needed.

The detent makes it less likely for the slide stop to move up and lock the slide when the magazine isn't empty. The OP's problem is the opposite -- the slide stop doesn't drop down when he attempts to slingshot the slide. The detent wouldn't be engaged when the slide stop is up.

 

[Theohazard]

If everything is in spec, the slide stop is forced down by the slide; if it won't go down, the slide cannot come back. Period.

Thanks for the info, I've never actually noticed this and I don't own a 1911 at the moment. So I guess my recommendation in post #15 won't work.

 

[James K]

The cut in the slide has a sloped surface at the front and there is a corresponding slope on the slide stop. That is how the slide being drawn back beyond slide lock actually forces the slide stop down, releasing the slide. Of course, the slide stop can also be pushed down manually with the thumb, bot many shooters prefer to use the slide itself, believing that the slide stop can be worn out (!) by manually moving it.

Jim

 

[g.willikers]

Before messing with the gun, try a little old fashion muscle power.
When drawing the slide rearward, do it with real authority.
So much that your hand literally slides right off the back or nearly so.
If the gun works then, it might give a better clue as to where the problem is.
Like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnd-PkHud0M

 

[boatdoc173]

Thanks@theohazard for this bit of info. You saved me from having to send a gun back. wonder why WC CS did not mention this.? no more shock buffs for me

again thank you

 

[boatdoc173]

When the slide is pulled back from slide lock, it should travel enough farther back that the forward part of the notch in the slide overrides the slide stop and forces it down. It's not in any way spring loaded, so it won't drop of its own accord. The usual culprit when you can't slingshot is a shock buffer, which reduces the rearward travel by the thickness of the buffer.

An exception is Les Baer Commander-size pistols. He makes them so they can't be slingshotted. The reason is that he uses the same frame as his Government size pistols, and won't do the extra 1/10-inch of machining needed to make a Commander work like a Commander.

There should not be a problem with a Norinco. Are you running a shock buffer?

this info saved me a ton of aggravation and stress, if in doubt, chuck the shock buff before going any further

thanks

 

[RickB]

Lots of good, and . . . interesting suggestions.
I'd say the first step is to determine if the slide will travel rearward beyond the locked position; if it can't move rearward, there's no way it will cam the slidestop down.
Rack the slide as far back as it will go, then eyeball the relationship of the slidestop and its notch in the slide; the notch should be about an eighth of an inch behind the slidestop with the slide all the way to the rear.
If the recoil spring is removed, does the slide travel further to the rear?
You might have an issue with the slide's rearward movement being stopped by the rails rather than the recoil spring tunnel hitting the guide rod; are the ends of the frame rails peened or beat-up at all?

 

[TunnelRat]

Just as a note the OP hasn't been on this forum since 2015, so if you direct responses to him they may fall on deaf ears. Doesn't hurt to have it in the thread though.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[gwpercle]

Back in the dark ages I was taught the little part was called a slide release...pull it down and the slide released.
Sling shot was something David used to slay Goliath with . Don't need no sling shot on the 1911.

 

[1911Tuner]

Sorry, but the M1911 does not have a slide release. It is called the SLIDE STOP and is touched only when locking the slide to rear for inspection and cleaning. It was NEVER designed to be used for dropping the slide during reloading.

But, of course it was designed to be used to release the slide. That's why it stands proud of the side of the frame and has checkering on top. It would've been cheaper, easier, and faster to simply machine it flat if it was "only" a slidestop...and would have been.

If you don't count the takedown, it actually performs five functions.

It's a slide stop that keeps the slide from running forward off the frame.

It's a slide lock that holds the slide back when the magazine is empty.

It's a camming surface that contacts the lower barrel lug and lifts the barrel into the slide.

It's an anchor for the link to pull the barrel back out of the slide.

It's a slide release.

Cheers!

 

[ocharry]

hey Tuner,,,havent seen you on here in a long time,,,i miss your words of wisdom Sir

hope your health and everything is OK with you and yours over there in NC

STAY SAFE MY FRIEND

sorry for the interruption ,,,,carry on!!

ocharry

 

[1911Tuner]

Yeah, we're good. Dodged a bullet with this storm. Too many dogs here at Castle Doghair, but I had too many dogs 10 dogs ago.

I've stayed off the forms for a while unless I'm specifically asked for
input...publicly or privately.

Hope all is well on your end.

 

[ocharry]

Yep good here....to many dogs....well I dont know if that's bad or not....they are always glad to see ya and on a cold night they can warm you up....my ol Elly girl is curled up right next to me now...head on my lap....to many...naw...lol. I ain't buying that

Have a good one ol son....stay safe and healthy

Ocharry

 

[Scorch]

Sounds like you have a slide buffer (little plastic bumper that goes around the recoil spring guide). Those little bumpers keep the slide from moving back far enough for the cutout in the slide to hit the top of the slide stop, forcing it down. If there is one in your gun, take it out, the slide stop will have no choice but to go down.