1911 Question

What kind of mags were you running when you had problems with WWB ammo --- that is a factor too.

Not trying to confound the issue however that is an element as well --- Also are you sure that the issue was slide speed and not that it failed to fully cycle? Not to mention that WWB is often rather anemic so if I had a problem with a gun and WWB my first step would be try some stiffer practice ammo or actual duty ammo.

I give you a ton of credit for your curriculum at school of hard knocks gun smith school. Been there, still am there.

In the 1911 EVERYTHING is variable... I tend to be a wilson parts guy for the most parts their parts are way closer to where they need to be, most of the time... either work out of the box or are darn close. Ed tends to be a slightly bit more.

If you really want to chase down this weird sensation you are feeling with hammer manipulation degrease every part and put dykem or blue sharpie all over the parts, re-assemble dry, manipulate 100 times and you should be able to see where the rub or issue is. I saw a similar once where a coil of of main spring was touching the extension of the spring cup that goes down the center of the spring --- this could be the spring being slightly off or whatever --- your critical aspect of the spring cup is that it slide up and down in the MSH freely and does not bind anywhere some polishing of the all the parts and the MSH bore can work wonders, mine also has graphite in it on assembly.
 
I'm not sure what's causing your issues. I've never had a 1911 suddenly develop feeding issues or any other problems just from swapping old recoil and main/hammer springs for fresh ones, even when the new spring weights were a little lighter or heavier than original.
 
So this was this issue. First we will start with the "noise."

The noise was due to not the fact of Springfield hammer strut in cunjunction with Ed MSH spring cup-but the actual Wolff mainspring it self needed to be broken in, it was waaay strong, definitely stronger than 23lb when brand new, although it is a 23lb main spring, it needed to take it's set first. So after it did I reinstalled the Ed Brn MSH parts, no more noise. My theory is that between half cock and full cock the main spring was so strong that the hammer strut was actually moving just a tiny bit inside the cup causing a very faint but audible noise.

Feeding issue.

It was simple. The brand new very powerful Wolff mainspring (it is a 23lb but i bet its more when brand new) and a brand new Wolff 16lb recoil spring, the slide outran my slightly or more than slightly worn magazine springs. I only had 2 FTF.

I took out the brand new Wolff recoil spring and reinstalled the Wolff 16lb recoil spring that has 1000 rounds on it and it shot great. Shot 500 rounds yestarday and broke in the mainspring as well. So now its all good. Will save the new recoil spring for next time I need replacement.

That's it for now. I am still going to install the Ed Brown hammer strut, should be here any day now. Still gonna roll with the MIM ignition parts because if they have lasted this long they should last a long time. I think my plan is when its time to replace the barrel I will have the Springfield custom shop fit a new barrel and tool steel ignition parts. They want to charge me 275$ for the trigger parts and install. Should I let them do it or is there a better way? I sold my C&S Duty trigger to a friend who needed it. Should I stick with MIM or is there a ignition kit that isn't too hard to fit?
 
So when I installed my C&S Duty trigger it worked for the short amount of rounds/time I used it before I put the Springfield ignition parts back in. Finding the 150,000 round review made me want to just go ahead and just use the stock trigger components.

Here is my question..other than fitting the thumb safety which is very easy for me, how many of you have or know of somebody using a drop in C&S trigger set and it working very well and reliably. I wish I hadn't sold it now but I had a friend who was in dire need of a trigger so I helped him out. I ordered another C&S Duty trigger and am just going to keep it as a spare for when/if the factory ignition trigger parts fail. This pistol is my EDC and my go to at night so I can't have any malfunctions. C&S's drop in triggers are of great quality and fit and finish are about perfect. Any insight is much appreciated guys. Thank you much.
 
Gunslick said:
how many of you have or know of somebody using a drop in C&S trigger set and it working very well and reliably
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I've met the owner of C&S and fondled some of his handiwork, so I certainly won't say anything bad about his parts. They are top shelf. That said, all the 1911 guys I know tend to use Colt parts (or just run with whatever the manufacturer put in the gun) and just tune the trigger to get it clean and crisp. I don't see any reason to spend big bucks on aftermarket ignition parts when 20 minutes of work with tools you already have around the house will get you a world-class trigger pull.
 
Well its the one thing I have not tried yet, and I know I am 100% capable. I just haven't given it a shot yet. I liked the fact that the Duty trigger did just drop right in and worked and money is not an issue so I don't mind buying good parts. I did just come to terms with using what came with the pistol. I know that if a part in a gun is gonna last or not last, you will find out in the first few hundred rounds. So basically if I were to buy a sear/disco/hammer set and fit them, I have the stones and jig to do it, its a pretty easy task I do believe, you are just fitting the sear to the hammer hooks and possibly a little work to the hammer hooks them selves, ya?

Okay I am gonna do this my self. It's time to learn this. So one question..I ordered the Ed Brown sear jig and it comes with a .020 shim. On my secondary angle of the sear after squaring up the primary angle, can I achieve a 45 degree secondary angle with .020 or do I need to purchase more shims. Also I thought I had good stones, appartantly I need to order different ones. So what is a good source for a complete set of stones to do my own trigger jobs. Screw hundreds of dollars on one trigger job when a hundred or a couple hundred bucks can give me many many trigger jobs and the know how because I like to know how. Thanks guys.
 
I replaced the hammer/sear/disconnector/sear spring in several 1911s (including my Springfield TRP) which had lower-quality fire control components with Cylinder & Slide matched kits and had fantastic results with them all!

Harrison has been making good stuff in recent years. But Cylinder & Slide has been making really high grade components for many years now. Their matched sets are "drop-in" in properly made 1911s and yield superb trigger pulls with long-lasting, high-grade tool-steel parts. You won't need to and won't want to fool around stoning or fitting these quality components. They are perfect as packaged and best left-the-heck alone - especially the mating surfaces between the sear and the hammer.
 
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