1911 people

If you are going to continue using both the Glock and the Officers 1911, then take both of them to every range trip.
Continually switch back and forth through out the session.
The Glock has a large head start, it will probably take some time, and many range sessions, for the 1911 to catch up.
But sooner or later, the brain will get the message, and the problem will fade away.
If you want to really be an all around shootist, throw in a revolver for those sessions, too.
 
OK so when I shoot my Glock as with other pistols I line up the 3 dots and fire. I don't lollie pop the target I aim center mass. I do the same for the 1911. As far as grip goes with my 1911 I wrap my right hand (strong hand) around the grip tightly then my weak hand wraps around the front of my other hand covering as much of the grip as possible. I point both thumbs straight and loosen the grip on my right hand while keeping my Left hand tight. I hope that makes since, I have practiced that over and over again. As for angle I notice what everyone is saying but if I level the gun out to have the correct angle my sights would then be off or am in doing something incorrect?
 
I suspect you are not fully re-acquiring sight picture for follow-up shots. In your first post you wrote that your first shot hits the point of aim, and after that the shots start creeping down. That suggests to me that muscle memory of the Glock grip is overriding sight picture in your follow-up shots.
 
I definitely agree with you on that. I need to retrain my muscle memory for this 1911. Just looking at the pictures I posted the one picture with the center blown out is at about 10' with slow shots and taking my time to realign the sights on target. I just looked at angle before and if I level the gun out the sights go off but I think I just need to go slower on each shot
 
Well made 1911's....at least from companies like Wilson Combat ...are guaranteed to give you 1" groups at 25 yds...on their 5" guns ../..and 1 1/2" groups at 25 yds with their 4" guns..../ so they are not just tactical distance weapons.

I'm not suggesting that I can shoot my 5" Wilsons with 1" groups at 25 yds...but they were test fired at the factory...and they ship the test target with them to prove it / but they are very accurate guns even after several years where I have over 70,000 rds thru one of them....
 
Let me ask this as a side question. Someone mentioned to me that I should get a keyed or supported reverse plug to help with keeping the barrel snug and increase accuracy? Any truth to this or is a keyed reverse plug a waste?
 
My opinion ...is its a waste of money right now / you need more range time, maybe some dry firing drill in between range visits...and see if you can get someone to help you out locally / watch you shoot, evaluate your grip, your arms, your stance, etc.. --- or even shoot the gun for you and see what they are getting for groups. But as silly as it sounds ...all these little things matter a lot...

I think most of your potential improvement will come from fundamentals...grip, trigger press technique, follow thru, trigger reset, focus, etc...( if I tell myself I'm going to suck at a drill...then I do ...)...so some of it is even confidence...and maybe eyesight.../ or even changing the sights to something you can see better....
 
I painted the front sight with bright sights paint. I do want to get better sights eventually though. Typically in shoot without my glasses on since they is how I train. I definitely have to remember fundamentals because when I first get to the range my shots are solid then like it said over time they creep down. Some shots I take are spot on and others not so much so I just agree that it need to practice fundamentals like crazy with the gun. It's not a top notch 1911 but it's not the bottom of the barrel either. It's solid and has excellent reviews as a work horse so I am convinced it is the operator error. Maybe I'm over gripping the gun as well seeing how my hand hurts after it shot yesterday.
 
Someone mentioned to me that I should get a keyed or supported reverse plug to help with keeping the barrel snug and increase accuracy? Any truth to this or is a keyed reverse plug a waste?
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No to the first question,
Yes to second one.
Your pics don't show like you're doing that bad,what you looking for anyway?
seven shots in the same hole right in the center while ducking?
 
If you're shooting with progressive no line bi-foculs...( street glasses ) ....and expecting bulls eye accuracy ( say even 3" groups at 25 yds )....you're kidding yourself.

Training with those glasses is fine ( if they're safety glasses )...but then change your expectations to "Tactical Accuracy" not bulls eye accuracy..../ and in my opinion as an example....if I can draw a gun and fire 2 shots - reload and fire 2 more shots...( into a center chest area on a silhouette target - or roughly in an area that is about 8 1/2" wide and 11" long )...at 8 yds...in under 6.0 seconds ( 2 sec to draw & one shot - 0.5 sec for 2nd shot - 3.0sec for reload plus 1 shot - 0.5 for 2nd shot )...for a class C shooter ..../ then I'm meeting my expectations.

My 5" 1911 is capable of putting all those shots in a 1" circle slow fire...and some days I can do that, and some days I can't ....but I sure can't do that coming out of a holster - double tap - reload - double tap in under 6 sec.

And in Tactical accuracy ....any one of those shots in the 8 1/2" X 11" target zone ...are just as effective and the ones dead center...even if they're on the edge..../ Tactical shooting is not bulls eye shooting - they're a very different skill set.
 
Bigjimp: very true honestly you just hit the proverbial nail on the head. Thanks for that insight. When I shoot my 1911 I am shooting between 3-10 yards and hitting a 5.5" target each time both double tap and single shot out of the holster. I have to work on my grip control as well as keeping in mind that this is not a target pistol and it is a defensive pistol. As for training with glasses I never do that. I always shoot with shooting glasses non prescription since that is most likely how things would go down
 
Ok, so we're back to you just need some more time on the range...maybe a buddy to help you out a little...

Have fun / make sure the range time is productive. Personally, when I run my tactical drills I restrict myself to no more than 4 boxes per range trip....keep the drills focused.../ go to the range 2 or 3 times a week if I need to work on something specific...vs one long session with 8 or 10 boxes...because I end up tired and unproductive.
 
I think my next trip is Monday so I plan to get some practice in and take it slow. Maybe just 3 shots at 3 yards then back up and go from there. Maybe my expectations for accuracy were a little off. I am happy hitting 5.5" targets from 3-10 yards with results like I pictured. I do think I'm going to cut some cardboard silhouettes. Anything in the center mass area I should be happy with.
 
dal22ses said:
Let me ask this as a side question. Someone mentioned to me that I should get a keyed or supported reverse plug to help with keeping the barrel snug and increase accuracy? Any truth to this or is a keyed reverse plug a waste?
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Oh, boy. Here we go again.

Your opening post said you have an "Officers" model. The 1911 Officers ACP was made by Colt and discontinued sometime in the early to mid-1990s. It used a barrel bushing to locate and support the muzzle, and it used a reverse recoil spring plug. You can buy aftermarket, flanged recoil spring plugs for the Officers ACP, but they do not in any way support the barrel.

Do you have a Colt Officers ACP, or do you have some other, newer brand pistol with a 3-1/2" barrel? Or do you even have a pistol with a 3-1/2 barrel?

dal22ses said:
As far as grip goes with my 1911 I wrap my right hand (strong hand) around the grip tightly then my weak hand wraps around the front of my other hand covering as much of the grip as possible. I point both thumbs straight and loosen the grip on my right hand while keeping my Left hand tight.
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Most instructors teach that you grip the pistol tightly. Some say like a firm handshake, some say as tight as you can grip it without your hand shaking. The strong hand is the more important hand, because it's the hand doing and controlling the shooting. The weak hand is just helping out. I don't think you should be loosening the grip with your strong hand.

You should also be pushing forward (away from your body) with the strong hand, and pulling back with the weak hand.
 
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dal22ses said:
I have a 3.5" barrel
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But do you have a Colt Officers ACP, or do you have some other brand of pistol with a 3.5" barrel?

Come on, we're trying to help you but you're not giving us the basic information we need to know.
 
You should beg, borrow or kidnap a good shooting coach! Reading, listening, and guessing will make the road to where you want to go a long one...
 
At the risk of being Mr Obvious, your follow up shots are going low, because you are firing before you have brought the pistol back to correct alignment.

As a guess, you are seeing your sights back on target, and firing, BUT your hands & arms are still pulling the pistol down from recoil.

the low group doesn't happen when you slow fire, right? Take your time, aim, each shot goes where you want. Get fast, get sloppy.

Fast follow up shots that miss are not follow ups, they are just noise.
 
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