1860 Army Sheriff VS Full Size

Find a couple of small washers that fit down the arbor hole. Install barrel with washers in hole. Measure gap between barrel lug and frame and file either the washers or arbor until the gap goes away. Or you could use one washer and cut off the tips of feeler gauges until you get it right. Once you get it right you can epoxy the washers into the hole. Or you can solder a piece of brass onto the end of the arbor and file it down until you get it right. Or you can D&T the end of the arbor and fix the gap with a set screw.
 
Salvador,
You can use a couple of steel washers to take up the space in the arbor hole or you can stick them on the end of the arbor (ugly!!) . The main points in doing this is to be able to install the wedge correctly (a good smacking! No "finger tight" junk!), so that you will remove all the arbor/arbor hole/ frame fit clearances and have the same barrel/ cyl clearance each time you assemble the revolver.
Smacking in the wedge also applies "tension" to the assemblies and allows the forces from shooting to move through the revolver as one solid unit. That's what keeps the two assemblies from beating the wedge up.

Also, I find the "fix" for the Uberti's and the Piettas to be about the same. Even though the arbor is sorta correct in the Piettas (at least you can install the wedge correctly!!) it's too long for my tuning service. I still have to dress the arbor down to end up with a .002"min.- .003" max. barrel/cyl clearance. The extra cost of the Uberti is reflected in the action parts. The parts today are very nice and much easier to set up. Piettas on the other hand have parts that are every bit as good as 1970's vintage!! Lots of "massaging" to get them right. So, it's a fairly even offering as far as work time with either.
The Uberti is a perfect platform for a really excellent revolver with more correct lines/ sizes and with at least the same time (and many times more time) the Pietta can be as excellent.

The decision of "which to get" can also be dependant on if a cartridge conversion is in the future. The longer Pietta cylinder is nice because it will accept factory length ammo whereas the shorter Uberti cyls usually require deeper seated bullets. (This pertains to .44 cal./.45C revolvers of the '51/ '60 variety). Wow!! lots of decisions to make!! Just get one of each!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

Sorry Hawg, didn't mean to answer for ya! I'm a s-l-o-w typer apparently!!! Lol
 
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Looks like the Cabela's sale was a bust. No steel frame 44 cal Colts on sale.


Midway has free shipping and this Pietta 1851 Navy .36 is probably the best deal right now for $225
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...k-powder-revolver-36-caliber-steel-frame-blue

Dixie Gunworks and Midway both have the 1860.
Midway - $259.99 Free Shipping
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/5...revolver-44-caliber-8-barrel-steel-frame-blue

Dixie $245 + $14.95 shipping = $259.95
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=946
 
Just to add to your comment 45 Dragoon: if you were to install a .44 cal. conversion cylinder in a Uberti Colt 1860 there will be no length issues if .44 Colt ammo is loaded.
No barrel liner is required either with outside lubed bullets.
Long Johns Wolf
 
Thank you Bootsie, you are correct. I know some folks like that setup but I think they're a "rare bird" (over here anyway). Heck, I already don't have time to reload my "normal" ammo!! Lol !!!

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
 
JUST DID IT!!! 199 OUT THE DOOR!!! CANT BELIEVE IT!
Every 2 or 3 days or so I'd check Cabelas site hoping for a break. Just checked it while laying down at 2am and you can imagine my reaction when I saw that deal.

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my first bp gun.... VERY EXCITED!
 
Also thanks for the heads up drobs!! Had I not gotten lucky and stumbled on it, your post would've led me to it. Something tells me I'm really going to like it here.
 
Good to hear Jack!

When you get it, tear it all apart, and if nothing else check the fit of the bolt head to the locking notches on the cylinder.

I find a couple swipes of the bolt head on a piece of black 600 grit automotive sand paper (laid on a flat surface) will fit the bolt head in to the locking notches. Making a significant difference to the handling of the gun.
 
Good price on em! You'll love the '60.

Good advice also above.... Before you let that bolt head peen up those cylinder notches, check out the timing and bolt width. Not all of them need any work, but if they do, it's much easier on you to do it before it beats up those slots.

Happy shooting!!!
Chuck.
 
Good advice also above.... Before you let that bolt head peen up those cylinder notches, check out the timing and bolt width. Not all of them need any work, but if they do, it's much easier on you to do it before it beats up those slots.
Click to expand...

The bolt should drop one full bolt width before the notch.
 
I definitely plan on stripping and cleaning the gun as soon as I get it with a list of problem areas to check and tune. I'm working on that list now so I'll be ready. I'm in no rush to take it to the range and want to make sure I prep it right and avoid undue wear.

Your advice has been invaluable!! Can't thank you enough!
 
Not so sure the "sherrif" model ever existed in real life.
Not as a factory offering. I don't even think they would cut one down as a special order. There were some local smiths that would do it and there were some hacksaw jobs I'm sure but I really don't think it was a common practice. It would be akin to buying a brand new Colt SAA and taking a hacksaw to it and I don't think anybody today is going to spend 1,500 bucks on something and whack it off.
Click to expand...

I did twice but the Colt Custom Shop did the work.



 
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