If the screw is long enough, mine isn't....Yet. As the wedge gets wear on it it will need to be seated further in to keep the cylinder gap correct. My wedge can be removed and installed by finger pressure but it doesn't work loose under recoil and I don't use light loads either. IMHO as long as you pay attention to where the wedge is seated there's no reason to mess with the screw.
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1851 Navy, .44 cal.......now what?
- Thread starter berkmberk1
- Start date
If the screw is long enough, mine isn't....Yet. As the wedge gets wear on it it will need to be seated further in to keep the cylinder gap correct. My wedge can be removed and installed by finger pressure but it doesn't work loose under recoil and I don't use light loads either. IMHO as long as you pay attention to where the wedge is seated there's no reason to mess with the screw.
Keep in mind that the patent refers to originals, not Italian repros. Nothing against the Italian guns - I got more than I need and I like them all, but I wonder how important that little screw was back in the day. The wedge screw on my 1860 .44 (Pietta) didn't even touch the wedge so I put one in with a larger head and it actually helped tighten the barrel/frame connection.
Smokin_Gun
New member
Along with what Pohill said, if the wedge screw is left fully tightened and the wedge is either pushed out tapped out or shot out....that screw holds the wedge from fallin' in the sand or dirt elsewhere. It also works to remove the wedge so as to unscrew till the wedge is free to pull with fingers. I keep my wedge screw either at the set depth for shootin the or all the way in.
But have not left out screw since I broke the locating pins off my 1860 Pietta while makin' a new wedge and shootin' with 777 ffg 28gr...lost the wedge after 3 shots...went to the sand along with watchin' my barrel assy. swing on the arbor. Fixed it got better pins(I made)than them stepped Pietta pins.
Anyway I'd keep the screw in far enough to not allow the wedge to fall out.
Pohill meant to tell you I used that technique on this CVA (ASM) '51 Navy I'm building for someone.
But have not left out screw since I broke the locating pins off my 1860 Pietta while makin' a new wedge and shootin' with 777 ffg 28gr...lost the wedge after 3 shots...went to the sand along with watchin' my barrel assy. swing on the arbor. Fixed it got better pins(I made)than them stepped Pietta pins.
Anyway I'd keep the screw in far enough to not allow the wedge to fall out.
Pohill meant to tell you I used that technique on this CVA (ASM) '51 Navy I'm building for someone.
ok, so what IS the big deal about charging directly from the flask? If the flask has a spout that will measure out the right amount, why can't you use it to pour directly into the firearm? Or is it maybe more about safety, and using the minimum amount of powder in case of an intentional ignition. I can sort of understand that this, being in the explosive industry.
also, what's everybody's opinion about using wads/patches/grease? I've heard mixed input about this. Some say that you don't need them, and can just put the lead ball right over the powder. Others say it's needed to prevent multiple chambers from igniting. Some say that the grease over the ball is to help with excessive fouling. This may start a debate, but tell me, what do you all think?
I just got my '51 and can't wait to get it out on the range, (My first BP gun) and I'm just trying to figure out what I need to worry about.
also, what's everybody's opinion about using wads/patches/grease? I've heard mixed input about this. Some say that you don't need them, and can just put the lead ball right over the powder. Others say it's needed to prevent multiple chambers from igniting. Some say that the grease over the ball is to help with excessive fouling. This may start a debate, but tell me, what do you all think?
I just got my '51 and can't wait to get it out on the range, (My first BP gun) and I'm just trying to figure out what I need to worry about.
Smokin_Gun
New member
ok, so what IS the big deal about charging directly from the flask?
It ain't no big deal as long as you don't catch a spark in that flask that a breeze kept glowing from a piece a char fouling...and blow your hand and face off.
But I pour from a flask to a cylinder just don't do it right off.
I use Lube Pills make my own recipe or buy them from Junk Yard Dog...Rifle's wife. Best thing I have ever used and have only used Lube Pills for the last 5-6 years...shoot all day, Colt or Remington, lube, improve accuracy, clean up easy. Contact Rifle on here or Wayne at Voy.com/60048/
SG
cicolin81 -
First of all, welcome to the forum.
Starting out, a bit of advice: you'll get more and better responses to your question if you start a new thread rather than adding on to someone else's. More people will see the subject and respond; by adding what is essentially a new subject to an old thread, people who have already posted in the thread, or those who are not interested in the original thread's subject won't see your request.
The caution to not charge directly from a flask originated with long gun users. It is not unusual for a long gun to retain hot embers in the bore, especially in the breach area. Pouring directly from the flask creates a column of combustible powder from that ember all the way back up to and into the flask. A loaded flask is a bomb in your hand. I have personally seen two incidents (in over 30 years, and thousands of gun loadings) in which a flask was ignited in that manner, and in both cases the result was severe burns.
The situation is not as dangerous with revolvers or short guns, as they tend to cool more quickly and hot embers are quite unusual. Also, we tend to take longer to charge revolvers, giving any embers longer to go cool. However, when one considers the possible consequences (third degree burns on the fingers, wrist, arm and face, and possible loss of an eye) it simply makes no sense to tempt fate. Being safe is the goal; ignoring the physics and saying, "It won't happen to me" is being unsafe.
Here's my opinion about wads/grease: The best, and sufficient, protection against chain fires is the proper size (and shape!) round ball and a properly fitting percussion cap. Thus wads/grease are helpful, but not in and of themselves the full measure of protection. What they are good for, however is lubrication of the chamber and bore. It is true that a good wad/grease will keep fouling soft and allow the gun to be fired several more times before fouling causes binding of the action. I personally prefer lubricated overpowder wads to grease over the chamber just because they're less messy on hot days. But that's a matter of personal choice; grease is allegedly more 'authentic', and that matters to some.
First of all, welcome to the forum.
Starting out, a bit of advice: you'll get more and better responses to your question if you start a new thread rather than adding on to someone else's. More people will see the subject and respond; by adding what is essentially a new subject to an old thread, people who have already posted in the thread, or those who are not interested in the original thread's subject won't see your request.
The caution to not charge directly from a flask originated with long gun users. It is not unusual for a long gun to retain hot embers in the bore, especially in the breach area. Pouring directly from the flask creates a column of combustible powder from that ember all the way back up to and into the flask. A loaded flask is a bomb in your hand. I have personally seen two incidents (in over 30 years, and thousands of gun loadings) in which a flask was ignited in that manner, and in both cases the result was severe burns.
The situation is not as dangerous with revolvers or short guns, as they tend to cool more quickly and hot embers are quite unusual. Also, we tend to take longer to charge revolvers, giving any embers longer to go cool. However, when one considers the possible consequences (third degree burns on the fingers, wrist, arm and face, and possible loss of an eye) it simply makes no sense to tempt fate. Being safe is the goal; ignoring the physics and saying, "It won't happen to me" is being unsafe.
Here's my opinion about wads/grease: The best, and sufficient, protection against chain fires is the proper size (and shape!) round ball and a properly fitting percussion cap. Thus wads/grease are helpful, but not in and of themselves the full measure of protection. What they are good for, however is lubrication of the chamber and bore. It is true that a good wad/grease will keep fouling soft and allow the gun to be fired several more times before fouling causes binding of the action. I personally prefer lubricated overpowder wads to grease over the chamber just because they're less messy on hot days. But that's a matter of personal choice; grease is allegedly more 'authentic', and that matters to some.
berkmberk1
New member
Charging procedures
When I'm at the range I'm usually shooting both my C&B revolvers....maybe my SAA too. If thats the case I'll usually alternate weapons. The chances of an "ember" hanging around a few minutes isn't worth my worry. I do, however, make sure my caps and powder aren't on the surface I'm shooting from. I either load on another table or move the components once I'm loaded.
I shoot my Remington at CAS matches. Once I'm cleared from the range I remove the cylinder, charge five chambers, put wads in them and tamp them down. Tip - a large size X-acto knife handle seems to be .44! Perfect for tamping the wads. I replace the cylinder, load the balls and then remove the cylinder. I then cap the chambers and put the cylinder away in my bag or just hold on to it. It gets put back in the gun at the loading table. All this handling lets the cylinder cool and allows me to inspect the chambers before loading.......hence......flask blow up highly unlikely.
But.........always be as safe as you can.
Mike
When I'm at the range I'm usually shooting both my C&B revolvers....maybe my SAA too. If thats the case I'll usually alternate weapons. The chances of an "ember" hanging around a few minutes isn't worth my worry. I do, however, make sure my caps and powder aren't on the surface I'm shooting from. I either load on another table or move the components once I'm loaded.
I shoot my Remington at CAS matches. Once I'm cleared from the range I remove the cylinder, charge five chambers, put wads in them and tamp them down. Tip - a large size X-acto knife handle seems to be .44! Perfect for tamping the wads. I replace the cylinder, load the balls and then remove the cylinder. I then cap the chambers and put the cylinder away in my bag or just hold on to it. It gets put back in the gun at the loading table. All this handling lets the cylinder cool and allows me to inspect the chambers before loading.......hence......flask blow up highly unlikely.
But.........always be as safe as you can.
Mike
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