10mm Vs .357

That's really not the point, Lancel. The .357 Magnum is normally fired out of a four (or six) inch barrel. That's the standard (or at least common) barrel length. The Glock 20 is probably the most common (or at least frequently encountered) 10mm. You just need to acknowledge the fact that they are usually fired out of different platforms and accept the strengths and weaknesses (e.g., cylinder gap of a revolver, magazine feed of an autoloader) of each platform. FWIW, the two weapons (four-inch L-frame and G20) are roughly equivalent sized--they are both full-sized service weapons.

Besides, you're fixating on the wrong thing ("slightly exceeds")--the important point is that there is not enough difference between them to make a difference. They are, for all practical purposes, ballistic twins.
 
jc,

I wasn't implying you were unfair in your comparison.

I'm sure you were only trying to inform folks about the difference in these calibers--I was trying to do exactly the same--inform people--just with a slightly different approach. You compared the hottest loads--I compared typical full power loads.

Good shooting,

John
 
The trouble is when you look at what the major manufacturer are putting out in .357 Magnum, the typical loads are not full power loads" by any stretch--typical loads are pretty well downloaded (too many .357 K-frames--and now unfortunately, J-frames as well--it can only get worse).
 
juliet charley:
the important point is that there is not enough difference between them to make a difference.
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On that statement we agree. But no matter how much you say that, you invariably end up sounding like the .357 is more equal. :D

The velocity vs barrel length comparison is invalid for the reasons stated.
Otherwise, we could say the velocity of a .357 magnum in a 4" revolver is significantly less than a 10mm auto in a 10" Contender. True but misleading. ;)

Larry
 
If your worried about which one is better, forget them both and go 44 Mag...substantially more power than both the 357 and the 10sillymeter, a larger caliber, easy to reload, and a fantastic assortment of factory loads to tickle anyones fancy.
 
True Potential of a Cartridge

To all those discussing the loads, full power, standard, factory.....

If you want to test the true potential of a cartridge. Handload it, use two revolvers of the same make, barrel length, and of course diff models, then work your loads up from there. After you have done this, then you will know. Trying to use published vs. actual ballistics on factory loads that don't match over and over again to make your point is... well it's pointless. Using these types of ballistics do not take into account actual tested velocities, let alone what barrel length, type of gun, etc. How can you make exact statements using such data? Nobody, but small specialty houses even comes close to what a cartridge can do, and even they don't go too far, it always has to do with the fear of lawsuits. I am not trying to insult anyone, it is just that to make a true statement, you need to sit down and do the work. By the way.. I agree with Jeffro250 anyways.. Just get a 44 mag. You can load it extremely light to extremely heavy. Have fun everyone.
 
That doesn't really tell you anymore than factory published data.

In the scenario you describe, you only know what the round will do in the particular weapons in which you tested it on the day you tested it.

1. There can be a great deal of variety between difference weapons of the same make and model. There's no guarantee because your load yield x fps out of your weapon that it would deliver the same velocity out of someone elses.

2. Three months later, you could take the same ammo and get a different reading.

3. A year later, you can load the same ammo with a different lot of powder and/or bullets and get a completely different reading.

4. You could finally get your chrono calibrated and discover everything you done was wrong.

In other words, factory data--particularly when discussing loads by manufacturers like DT and BB--are plenty good for discussion. The fact is ammo performance is not set in stone--there can (and is) be a great deal of variation of what is, at least nominally, the same load.
 
Since the .357 MAGNUM uses a 1.29" case, while the 10mm Auto case is only 0.99" long. You could also send a S&W 610 revolver to a gunsmith and have him ream-out the cylinder to accept 1.25" long Starline 10mm MAGNUM brass. Then reload 180gr slugs to over 1600fps or 200 grainers to over 1500fps. Makes for a real Magnum versus Magnum comparison. Since the 610 uses moon clips, you'd still retain the capability to fire REGULAR 10mm, as well as .40 S&W ammo, in the same 10mm Magnum revolver. (Just like .38 Specials in a .357 Magnum gun.)
 
There are so many in here claiming the hottest .357 load beats out the hottest 10mm load. Give me the specs on this "so-called" hottest .357 load and I will give you a specs exceeding that in a 10mm.
 
There are so many in here claiming the hottest .357 load beats out the hottest 10mm load. Give me the specs on this "so-called" hottest .357 load and I will give you a specs exceeding that in a 10mm.
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125 gr. JHC (1700 fps ME 802 ft lbs.)....thats a 357 load from buffalo bore...their products live up to and often exceed their claims. Hottest 10mm ammo i could find(doubletap, corbon, and buffalo bore) didnt even break 800 ft lbs.

http://www.buffalobore.com/ammunition/default.htm#357
 
125 gr. JHC (1700 fps ME 802 ft lbs.)....thats a 357 load from buffalo bore...their products live up to and often exceed their claims. Hottest 10mm ammo i could find(doubletap, corbon, and buffalo bore) didnt even break 800 ft lbs.
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Thats moderate 41 magnum energy with much more velocity. I gotta get me some of that stuff. You can probably exceed those numbers in a handload but that would start to enter the red zone.
 
I have exceeded that mark a little bit, but it was using a Ruger Blackhawk...their built stout enough to handle most anything you can cramp in a .357 case.
 
There's been a fair number of blackhawks and other very stong revolvers with blown cylinders and top straps by people looking for that little bit extra. Its always easier, cheaper and safer to just move up to the next larger magnum.

The 357 mag and 10mm are both veratile, useful and powerful weapons in there own right, using either available factory loads or handloads. Its unlikely that either one would make a difference to a deer, hog or human adversary.
 
Ive gotten just a hair over 1800 FPS using 125 grain jacketed soft points and a stiff charge of H110. Hodgdon lists 22 grains good for 1966 in a 10 inch barrel. 23 grains put me just over the 1800 mark in a 6 inch barrel...had the loads pressure tested(just a little over 43,000 CUP) and they were still well within safe ranges for a blackhawk and then some. The fireball and muzzle blast is nothing short of impressive, and the power its making is on level with some 44 mag loads(just under 900 FT LBS)...you can only cram so much powder in those cases though. :rolleyes: In fact, dropped my first deer with a handgun 3 years ago with that exact load at 80 yards...tore both shoulders to shreds and left an exit wound that i could have put a fist through.
 
In fact, dropped my first deer with a handgun 3 years ago with that exact load at 80 yards...tore both shoulders to shreds and left an exit wound that i could have put a fist through.
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Whoa nice, thats kinda scary too. :eek:
 
At the risk of providing fodder for the resident nit-picker...

Who cares? Is there really enough difference between the 10MM and the .357 to warrant such copious discussion? I think either will do the job if the job calls for a medium power handgun. Choose your favorite platform and go in peace. ;)
 
As I stated above.....
Magsafe Ammunition, 10mm auto, 96gr. 1800fps/960fpe from a 5 inch delta elite barrel. There is no doubt that the .357 is an ultimate manstopper, Im just tired of people not giving credit to the 10mm for what it can achieve. Those are your dollar+ a piece bullets, but I carry Mike's DT 135gr. JHP at 1610fps/777fpe in my G29 for self defense. Coming out of my 29 the velocity loss is a mere 60-70fps.
 
But what the heck good is a 96 grain bullet going that fast going to for you?!?! Surely its not going to be good for hunting due to its weight or lack their of except maybe at point blank ranges...and its not going to make a good defence caliber as its going to go through the bad guy, the 3 people standing behind him and probably out into someones car! Not bashing the 10mm, i think its one of the better AUTO calibers out there.... i just think people need to realize its limitations...its not the godsent caliber that some think it is. :rolleyes:
 
...and its not going to make a good defence caliber as its going to go through the bad guy, the 3 people standing behind him and probably out into someones car!
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Actually, being a MagSafe load, it's not the best choice for defensive use for having too little penetration, not too much.


As an aside, if McNett's getting 1600fps from his 135gr load in a 4.6" G20, I wonder what it's doing out of a 5" 610? (More out of curiousity than anything else; that fragile little 135 grainer must be exploding on contact at those velocities...)
 
The discussion wasnt about application of the round, it was about the #'s, nothing more. I realize it doesnt make much difference in real world application but its there to prove a point. I can post 77gr 10mm ballistics that do explode on contact, enough to cause HSS, and the energy distributuion is insane. I use the 135 DT's for carry because If I ever do use it in self defense it will most likely be inside my tattoo shop, and I would rather have a bullet that penetrates 12-14 inches in frangible pieces than penetrating completely through retaing 90% of the bullet wieght and killing one of my co-workers. A 200gr 10mm round loaded to full strength would have very little problems going through a 2 legged foe with ease.
 
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