1000 yard scope

All good advice. My advice is this:
You can't just buy your way to hitting 1 MOA at 1,000 yds. A good rifle with top quality optics will make it easier, but very few people just start out and shoot 1,000 yds. You have to train like a pro to shoot like a pro. You wouldn't expect to be an Olympic-class marathon runner just because you can jog on weekends. Take your Browning, put a good scope on it, and shoot 3,000-5,000 rounds at gradually increasing ranges over a year or so, working up to 1,000 yds. THEN buy a rifle and scope that will consistently perform at 1,000 yds.
 
Some really interesting philosophies and experiences shared, very good reading. So many variables within the term "long range precision". You need a constant rifle (including consistent shooter mechanics), you need a consistent optic , AND you need a consistent load. Anyone with the passion for target shooting should read Brian Litz's book Accuracy and Precision for Long Range Shooting :

http://appliedballisticsllc.com/products/books/
 
Take your Browning, put a good scope on it, and shoot 3,000-5,000 rounds at gradually increasing ranges over a year or so, working up to 1,000 yds. THEN buy a rifle and scope that will consistently perform at 1,000 yds.
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If he already had the Browning, I would agree with you, but from the sounds of things he is buying it for this, which like I said earlier, can work, but will be a lot harder, both in the rifle and the selected cambering. He would be much better served with a heavy barreled varmint/target/tactical type rifle, like the Savage I linked above. It will probably shoot better than he does for a long time, and is easy to upgrade later if needed.

Now if he is buying the Browning with the intent of it being a hunting rifle, that he will occasionally try and whack steel at 1000 yards, then that will work, all you really need is a tapered scope base to get enough elevation, but that changes the scope question, because a scope for 1000Y competition is usually more then you need for a hunting rifle. You really don't want the weight and size of a ~24X+ variable with target turrets on a deer rifle.

On the other hand, a good 3x9 of 4x12 would work for fun shooting at steel at 1000 yards, again provided you have a tapered base to get the elevation range required. More of a challenge than a ~24X+ variable with target turrets, but not impossible. Again, I have shot at 1000 yards with a 3.5x WW2-era Soviet PU on a Mosin Nagant sniper rifle, and I guarantee you even the bottom of the line Vortex has better glass.

I have a Leupold on my LR rig, (the earlier generation of this one), and it is fine for 1000 yards, I also have a Vortex Crossfire, the lower cost version of the scope I linked above, and the glass isn't quite as good, but still pretty good, and both track perfectly.

You don't HAVE TO HAVE a $1000 scope or rifle to shoot 1000 yards.
 
That was a point I tried to make...
People don't pack around heavy bench rifles to hunt, hunting rifles don't shoot 1,000 yds every day.
Shooting paper targets or steel at known ranges don't need 100 gadgets built into or etched in the reticle.

The MOST important thing is good glass, ground properly & mounted in adjustment mechanicals that are dead nut CONSISTENT.
This requires a maker that knows what they are doing, so the older manufacturers usually do a better job.
Keep in mind they have the ability, the equipment already, so they are often less expensive while providing an optic that does the job for decades.

As for rifles, folks were shooting 1,000 yds way before the current crop of 'High Tech' offerings of today.
Guys shot CONSISTENTLY with actions made before WWI, the old ways of chambering & finishing barrels still work today, it doesn't take $12 million in CNC machine to make a good barrel.
Pillars & bedding still work on even the oldest & poor quality wood stocks, while synthetic stocks simply aren't that expensive, and the same rules for pillars & bedding still apply if you don't like the way it shoots.

I've pulled common rifles off the rack and shot 600 yards without much more than adjusting the trigger & mounting optics. In a proper caliber (not .223 for instance) it wouldn't have taken much more to do 1,000 yds.
Other rifles come off the shelf so loose and poorly fitted I wouldn't have thought them safe to fire.
Commercial offerings are not created equal, take your time to check out the rifle you intend to buy.
Loose bolts, gritty triggers, I'll fitting parts don't get better with use and don't heal themselves, so try to find a well fitted offering up front. Doesn't have to be expensive, just fitted well.

Simply sit down, make a list of what you actually NEED (leave out 'Wants' or 'Cool').
Reticle that suits your purpose, and nothing more.
Tube size that allows for adjustments in your perfered ranges.
A 1" tube is fine for 1,000 yd only, you simply adjust mounts for elevation to get you on target, saving your adjustment for fine tuning your aim point.

If you intend to do 100 to 1,000 yds, then you are going to need a HUGE TUBE size to accommodate the range of adjustment you will need. This drives price up and it's hard to find one that doesn't have a bunch of crap included in it, which drives price up even more.

APPLICATION, APPLICATION, APPLICATION!
 
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