10/22 or 15/22?
- Thread starter Felenari
- Start date
SGW Gunsmith
Moderator
Any .22 rifle built from separate parts, including the Ruger 10/22, is going to cost more than a "came from the factory version". It's all gonna depend on what your expected outcome involves.
If you just want a plinker, get a factory rifle. If you want a 10/22 to use in competition shooting, then you may indeed want to go with more of the better parts available:
If you just want a plinker, get a factory rifle. If you want a 10/22 to use in competition shooting, then you may indeed want to go with more of the better parts available:
Nice color on that stock you have there.
I'd like to have something fun to shoot but I enjoy the act of assembling and customising just as much. I'm not planning on competing with it other than maybe bet with a buddy. I know you can spend as much as your heart desires but I'm trying to stay around or under 800 to 1000$. I talked to a few friends here and I'm thinking I want a fun takedown 10/22 with a mannlicher stock or something. Rail on the Barrel for red dot perhaps. I'm not building it for a while so I want to know a bit more about the firearms before I start. I've shot a 10/22 but not a 15-22. I've heard the 15-22 is really fun when (legally) converted to full auto.
I'd like to have something fun to shoot but I enjoy the act of assembling and customising just as much. I'm not planning on competing with it other than maybe bet with a buddy. I know you can spend as much as your heart desires but I'm trying to stay around or under 800 to 1000$. I talked to a few friends here and I'm thinking I want a fun takedown 10/22 with a mannlicher stock or something. Rail on the Barrel for red dot perhaps. I'm not building it for a while so I want to know a bit more about the firearms before I start. I've shot a 10/22 but not a 15-22. I've heard the 15-22 is really fun when (legally) converted to full auto.
I prefer the 10/22. The 15/22 has a bunch of proprietary parts and even when properly built will not stay with the 10/22 accuracy-wise. Magazines are hard to find and quirky. Barrel removal requires a special tool. They do take a lot of AR parts, but not all. But of course, if you gotta have it, go ahead and get the 15/22.
I don't have to have it. I was just wondering about the 15-22. I've only ever heard about it as a cheap way to get practice in with an ar15 esque platform and as a fun full auto conversion. I like the looks of the 10/22 more than the 15-22 but word of mouth on reliability I've heard nothing but good things about the 10/22. Just wanted to know more about the two before making a decision.
I think I'd have more fun with the takedown 10/22 over the 15-22. Especially in California where anything that looks like an AR automatically makes you the scum of the earth.
I think I'd have more fun with the takedown 10/22 over the 15-22. Especially in California where anything that looks like an AR automatically makes you the scum of the earth.
I have factory and full-house custom 10/22s, as well as AR22s. It all comes down to what you like and what you want to do with them. I have them set up for Rimfire Challenge, Precision Rimfire, hunting, suppressors, training, even a clone of a SWAT rig I built for a department many years ago to take out lights.
Both can be made just as accurate (about 1 MOA) out to 100 yards. But there are trade offs and magazines, chambers, etc, must be balanced against purpose and cost. Black Dog mags are readily available for the AR22s, as are bolts and barrels, all else is AR15.
In CA, the 10/22 is going to be a little less stressful as the 10 round magazines are everywhere. Since you seem to like them a little more, go that way. I build all of mine these days because I want specific parts and I want to fit and test them. While I am sponsored by Tactical Solutions, they are what I preferred prior. My most recent build I used a PMACA long nose chassis with a Kidd barrel, everything else TS, for a precision build. They make some great take-downs and parts if you want to build one just like you want it.
Both can be made just as accurate (about 1 MOA) out to 100 yards. But there are trade offs and magazines, chambers, etc, must be balanced against purpose and cost. Black Dog mags are readily available for the AR22s, as are bolts and barrels, all else is AR15.
In CA, the 10/22 is going to be a little less stressful as the 10 round magazines are everywhere. Since you seem to like them a little more, go that way. I build all of mine these days because I want specific parts and I want to fit and test them. While I am sponsored by Tactical Solutions, they are what I preferred prior. My most recent build I used a PMACA long nose chassis with a Kidd barrel, everything else TS, for a precision build. They make some great take-downs and parts if you want to build one just like you want it.
Only the 10/22
Only the 10/22 and more than once. There is not on a OEM 10/22, that does not have an after-market part. There is even an aftermarket magazine spring available. You can buy a stock 10/22 for about $175 or slightly more, Add aftermarket parts that can run into the hundreds, then tear it back down and sell the original. You don't see many used 10/22's at gun-shows and it they are OEM, they are not worth much. If you try and sell a built up 10/22, you will take a beating every time ….
Be Safe !!!
Only the 10/22 and more than once. There is not on a OEM 10/22, that does not have an after-market part. There is even an aftermarket magazine spring available. You can buy a stock 10/22 for about $175 or slightly more, Add aftermarket parts that can run into the hundreds, then tear it back down and sell the original. You don't see many used 10/22's at gun-shows and it they are OEM, they are not worth much. If you try and sell a built up 10/22, you will take a beating every time ….
Be Safe !!!
Chambers...there are the Bentz, and a few modified Bentz. Lilja has their own in a few flavors, there is an LR, Eley and Anschutz as well. Kidd has his own as well, and in my opinion, with several types of ammo, it is the best barrel for pure accuracy in a 10/22 that will also run. There is a lot to the chamber and the other related dimensions. Some are so tight that they are not good fits for semi-autos.
When I was building custom AR22 uppers, I used Beyer barrels. He makes a great barrel and the AR22 barrels I had him make, he now offers on the website, again with his own chamber. I have TacSol barrels on the rest of my 10/22s.
When I was building custom AR22 uppers, I used Beyer barrels. He makes a great barrel and the AR22 barrels I had him make, he now offers on the website, again with his own chamber. I have TacSol barrels on the rest of my 10/22s.
Is there any good reading you recommend on chamber design? I'm assuming the tight chambers are for something like a bolt action so that the round sits in exactly the same spot with less gas bleed out the back of the chamber right? Sounds like I have my homework cut out before I decide on anything.
Good reading on chamber design for semi-auto 22LR? Other than searching the forums and people's opinions, not really. I have had chambers I have felt were too tight and some that were too loose. Barrels from Kidd, TacSol and Beyer, in that order, have given me the best success from an accuracy perspective. TS and Beyer are less accurate, but they will run past where the Kidd needs to be cleaned. But I have not tried all of them. Kidd is a full barrel, so it will weigh more than the TS or Beyer that use a steel tube inside an aluminum barrel.
The tenon dimensions and the freebore are also issues. Most experienced 10/22 folks understand that the stock barrels, cut to SAAMI have a chamber that is too long and often not concentric and fit loose to the receiver. That is why most end up with an aftermarket barrel, and when you consider costs, buying the parts and building yourself, or spending $500+ on a high end maker, is the preferred path. While I have researched and shot a few of the threaded barrel options, I just don't see the need.
If you really like a factory Ruger, you can always buy it and send it directly to CPC and have him work it over. He does a great job and I have seen where his work has cut group sizes by a factor of 4 times. http://www.ct-precision.com/ruger10-22.html
Brownells sells receivers, on sale for like $65 right now and they are a good path to build your own. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...ped-receiver-for-ruger-10-22--prod116208.aspx
You can buy a complete reworked bolt from CPC for $90. Pick a barrel and then you are down to trigger and stock.
The tenon dimensions and the freebore are also issues. Most experienced 10/22 folks understand that the stock barrels, cut to SAAMI have a chamber that is too long and often not concentric and fit loose to the receiver. That is why most end up with an aftermarket barrel, and when you consider costs, buying the parts and building yourself, or spending $500+ on a high end maker, is the preferred path. While I have researched and shot a few of the threaded barrel options, I just don't see the need.
If you really like a factory Ruger, you can always buy it and send it directly to CPC and have him work it over. He does a great job and I have seen where his work has cut group sizes by a factor of 4 times. http://www.ct-precision.com/ruger10-22.html
Brownells sells receivers, on sale for like $65 right now and they are a good path to build your own. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...ped-receiver-for-ruger-10-22--prod116208.aspx
You can buy a complete reworked bolt from CPC for $90. Pick a barrel and then you are down to trigger and stock.
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A S&W 15-22 isn't made from AR parts, but it also costs quite a bit less than an AR in 22lr. If you already have the tools and are familiar with AR assembly, an AR is easier to free float and produce good reliability and accuracy. There is less to get wrong in an AR, imo, and the design has some advantages.
10/22s can be money pits. The bolt is a couple of ounces heavier than the CMMG bolts, which are too light in my estimation. The advantage of building a 10/22 from parts is that there is a huge world of vendors from whom to choose. The disadvantage is that there is a huge world of vendors in which to become lost.
10/22 accuracy tuning is a dark art. The barrel wants a pressure pad at the front or back, unless of course it doesn't. Free floating is brilliant or ineffective, depending on the specific rifle and who you ask. I have a lot of affection for Ruger designs and I've tinkered with them for decades. Yet, the 10/22 trigger group drives some people nutty, and the quality of Ruger's manufacturing is not always superlative, even if they do have excellent customer service.
10/22s can be money pits. The bolt is a couple of ounces heavier than the CMMG bolts, which are too light in my estimation. The advantage of building a 10/22 from parts is that there is a huge world of vendors from whom to choose. The disadvantage is that there is a huge world of vendors in which to become lost.
10/22 accuracy tuning is a dark art. The barrel wants a pressure pad at the front or back, unless of course it doesn't. Free floating is brilliant or ineffective, depending on the specific rifle and who you ask. I have a lot of affection for Ruger designs and I've tinkered with them for decades. Yet, the 10/22 trigger group drives some people nutty, and the quality of Ruger's manufacturing is not always superlative, even if they do have excellent customer service.
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CMMG sells dedicated AR barrels in 22lr and bolts that work with them.
The 10/22 trigger group is held together by pins that may fall out if the group is turned too much off horizontal. It's a bit like disassembly of a Ruger MKII pistol in that it isn't hard at all if one already knows what he is doing, but can be a source of frustration to others.