Zeroing my new Scope Tomorrow, advice?

M

Mosin-Marauder

New member
I got my new scope for my Savage, and, as I've only shot with a scope a handful of times, so I'm kind of in the dark about zeroing it. I've watched videos and have a vague idea about how to do it. So I'd appreciate if you folks had any tips about doing it. I plan to do the initial zeroing at 50 yards and moving up to 100 yards. How high should it be hitting at 50 yards to be dead on at 100 yards? My turrets adjust 1/4" at 100 yards, so how many clicks should I do? This is a .22-250 so I think it shouldn't drop too much.

Sorry for all the stupid questions, just really new to this. Again, sorry, and Thank you for any help you can provide.

Regards,

-Mo.
 
Forget 50 yards.

Make sure the scope is mounted securely and try 15-20 yards. That will get you on paper faster. Once you're in a 2 inch circle move the target back farther.

If for some reason your scope is way off this will keep you from guessing where you hit and wasting ammo.
 
Personally, when I was as inexperienced sighting in rifles as you sound; I cussed at myself any time I started sighting in any further away than 25 yards.

So, recommendations:

Use a rest and bag or a sled.
Fire two shots at 25 yards. Those two shots if they are accurate are only $2. If your bore sighting isn't great you should still be on paper.
From there, work your way further out. Heck .22-250 zeroed at 25 yards should be within 2-3 inches of dead on at 100 yards. You will probably be able to skip the 50 yard step.
Once you are happy, whether 5 or 20 shots; fire three from a field position to verify whether your zero is affected.
If wind is more than 5 mph, recheck the zero one you get a calm day.

Good luck.
 
So, target at 25 yards, then 100 yards (from a stable bench rest) then 3 shots from field position. A box of ammo should accomplish that. I will post a range report tomorrow. Thanks guys!
 
Lock your rifle down as solidly as you can in a lead sled or something similar. Take the bolt out of the gun and looking through the barrel center your target in the barrel. Then adjust your scope to the target. If you do a good job the bullet should be on the paper at 100 yards. Twice in my life I have hit dead zero by bore sighting, that`s out of 100`s of tries, but I am usually close.
 
At 25 u should be a little bit low to b dead on at 100. U can bore sight by taking the bolt out and securing the gun in a vice or whatever u have handy. If the center of the bore and the cross hairs are looking at the same key hole in yur door knob or corner of a door frame/ picture frame up close u will b ok! The center of the boot should be just slightly under the crosshairs! Very slightly! I've done this on knots in the paneling within one room when I was young and still have never been more than 4 inches off at 100 yards!
 
If you can afford an extra $20-30, get a bore sighter. They're set up for multiple calibers so you'll be able to use it for multiple firearms. Saves a lot of time, cussing and bullets. With a bore sight, I start around 10 yards, then 25, then I start using bullets at 25, then I do the math for 100 and go from there.
 
So, target at 25 yards, then 100 yards (from a stable bench rest) then 3 shots from field position. A box of ammo should accomplish that. I will post a range report tomorrow. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Bore sight as described above.

Rig your set up so the rifle will be held securely, take aim at a precise spot on the 25 yard target and fire ONE shot.

Now, set the gun back on the bags with the crosshairs centered on your aiming point, and without moving the gun, look through the scope and move the crosshairs to the bullet hole

Then you can proceed to longer ranges and should be fairly close

Here's a good ballistics calculator that can help with trajectory information

http://huntingnut.com/index.php?name=PointBlank
 
Shoot 1 shot at 25 yds. Twist turrets to make POI 1" low at 25 yds. Shoot a 2nd shot to confirm.

Repeat at 100 yds except with POI where you want it. Then shoot a 3-5 shot group and adjust your center point to desired POI.

Finally repeat at your actual sight in distance. If 100, you were done. If this takes more than 20 rounds, your scope or your math are suspect.
 
I got it hitting 1" high at 25 yards, I kept my last group under 3/4" and had two in the same hole with "cheap" Remington 55 Grain Soft Points. The trigger made it really hard to be really precise. The scope was a bit blurry at times but I think it's alright for a 44 dollar tasco. :D

I'm going to have to group it at 100 sometime soon and see how it does, I hope I can keep 3 shots under an inch. I might get some work done in the trigger. It's worse than my Mosin. :eek:.

Anyway, thanks for your help guys!

-Mo.
 
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Try to replace that scope as soon as you can & DO NOT MESS WITH THE TRIGGER YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!

If there's only one of those two bits of advice you can follow, DO NOT MESS WITH THAT TRIGGER YOURSELF!!!!!!!

Avoiding over-tinkering with the rest of the gun yourself would also be advisable.

Denis
 
I never was going to work in it myself. I have no idea how it works, I haven't even taken it out of the stock yet (and don't plan to Unless I absolutely have to). If I have work done on the trigger, it's going to be done by professional. Only thing I've done to the gun was made sure the action screws were tight.

Replacing the scope won't be an option for a while, unfortunately. But as soon as I can I'm going to upgrade it.

And it's an Axis in .22-250. I've had it for a whole and am just now shooting it.
 
Knowing your compulsion to tinker with your guns, just advising up front that the less you yourself do to it, the better.

That also includes repeatedly removing the action from the stock, and obsessively cleaning the bore.
Denis
 
Turrets adjust 1/4" at 100 yards means one click moves the reticle 1/4" at 100. Up and down or sideways.
Off a solid bench rest and assuming you have a load worked up or have found the ammo your rifle shoots best, fire 3 shots slowly and deliberately at a sighting in target(the ones with the 1" squares.). Don't worry about the group. Think in terms of the center of the group and measure the distance from the bull and adjust the reticle enough clicks up and sideways. Fire a confirming group. How high over the bull depends on what bullet/ammo used.
OR. You can fire one shot off the solid bench rest and while looking through the scope, move the reticle to the bullet hole. This requires a very solid rest.
 
I won't pretend to know better than others on here and any who have read my own head-beating threads on trying to zero successfully can testify to this but...


... one thing that I have done that has always helped me at least get in the ball park with shots at 100m is the following:

Set the rifle in a clamp/rifle rest, even secured by some heavy books: anything to keep it steady and secure.

Do this all so that the rifle is then pointing at an easily discernible object 100m away. A bright can, a balloon, a white postcard on a dark background or some-such.

Remove the bolt altogether. Wiggle the rifle so that, when you look down the bore, you can see the easily discernible object. If at all possible get that object to sit in the centre of the bore line of sight.

Then, being careful not to nudge or displace the rifle, look at where the scope reticle is located in relation to that same object. Then gingerly use the turrets to move the reticle so it sits over the object.

Your bore and scope will now be looking at the exact same spot 100m away. Once you put shots down-range you should at least be hitting in the general area, albeit a bit lower due to bullet drop. As long as the target paper is pretty big, you should be able to catch the bullet strikes and work in from there.

With my 308 and .22, I got my zero pretty much sorted within about 10-15 shots.

One option. (that I now see has already been given several times...:rolleyes:)
 
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