Zeroing a variable scope.

I zero at the highest power setting. There can sometimes be minor differences in POI at different power settings. I shoot at the lowest setting just to check for any issues, never had enough difference to worry about.

I leave my scope on the lowest setting 99% of the time and most all of my shots are at that setting. If I need more than 2-3X, I go straight to the highest setting where I know it is perfectly zeroed. I have no use for anything in between.
 
Ditto, highest power.
Doesn't make much difference at short ranges, but greater magnification = more precise point of aim= greater precision at long range.
 
if it makes a difference then the scope is defective.
Click to expand...

If it makes a MAJOR difference the scope is defective. Even with some very good scopes you may well see some minor differences. Most people cannot shoot well enough, or don't have rifles accurate enough, to ever notice. But the differences are often there.
 
Yep, go with the high end. If in question, then group the rifle at other powers to verify.

If as has been said, there is a great amount of difference in the point of impact, the scope is questionable at best.

But then, and been there and done that, unless hunting in totally open country or looking for other then an eating type game animal, always carry the rifle with the scope on or near the lowest power setting!!!!!

Lost the chance to pack out a bull elk one time before I learned my lesson on that.

Helped a friend sight in his new 30/06 rifle this past week with a 6 X 18 power scope and fear that he will need to learn the hard way that he has waaaaay to much scope on the low end for hunting.

Carry on the low end and if you have the oppertunity for a shot where higher power would help, chances are you'll have time to make the change.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
yep - there is a very good reason why 3-9X 40 mm has always been a classic hunting scope. 3X is low enough for close in work on moving game. If the game is far enough away to need more magnification, you will have plenty of time to change up.
 
A scope can be checked by clamping it (and probably the rifle) in a padded vise and, with the reticle centered on a target, turn the power knob to see how much the point of aim changes. Most mid-priced scopes in good condition should stay within 1" of the original aim point at 100 yards. Some are much better.
 
I get better results on the low power setting.
Too much distracting wobble at the high setting and a smaller target is easier to center for me.
Denis
 
I like starting with the scope on it's highest setting, then checking it at it's lowest to make sure there is no shift. I've never had any issue with my Leupolds but did have an old Weaver that was inches off at 100 yards.
 
I sight a newly mounted scope in at 50 yds with the lowest possible setting that I can still see the bull clearly,,, then I move out to 100 yds and adjust accordingly.;)
 
Quote:
if it makes a difference then the scope is defective.
Click to expand...

If it makes a MAJOR difference the scope is defective. Even with some very good scopes you may well see some minor differences. Most people cannot shoot well enough, or don't have rifles accurate enough, to ever notice. But the differences are often there.
Click to expand...

+1

Even high end scopes can have a minor change in the POI at different power settings. It's a good idea to check for this. I would do a box test on the scope also. This well test the return to zero if your a knob turner. More important to target shooters than hunters.
 
Yep 1Hobie.

However, this is one area where quality counts.

I bought a used 77/22 with a Bushnell Banner mounted, and the Paralax was over the top bad.

Replaced it with a Leupold 2X7, not even a ".22" scope and the paralax was almost zero, considering this was a centerfire scope and likely set for the distance of 100 or more yards.

Later swapped a friend for his 2X7 compact Leupold because he wanted the larger scope and it also was very good.

I had a 4X12 Tasco on another .22 and even with it's adjustable objective and focus it was just simply such a bad scope that the scope was almost worthless.

Not the case with my Leupold 3X9 Extended Focus Range (EFR) scope which is just fantastic on the Clark Custom 77/22 it sits on. Adjust the "A.O." to your target distance and it is sharply focused and paralax is a non-issue.

I realise there are other good scopes, but if you have a good one at a cheaper price, count yourself lucky.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 
Last edited:
Really good glass makes a difference. It truly depends on your needs for a particular enviroment.

I've used Leupold and Burris recreationally and compared looking through less expensive optics, the difference is noticeable. Just depends on what you want/need to do.

Hobie
 
Why would you have a variable if "you never use" the higher magnification?
The wobbles you see with higher magnification are still there at lower magnification-you just don't see them.
I don't know where some of these ideas come from, but they're not based on fact or experience.
There's a reason target and varmint shooters use powerful optics-it's so they can see their targets better. Forfeiting the ability to see your target is only acceptable if the compromise is field of view.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top