zero reset turrets?

A

axis223

New member
I have Nikon and vortex with zero reset turrets but don't understand how to use them and why.

so what if say my 100 yard zero is adjustment 6 and I turn them back to 0 and want to shoot at 200 yards which is 8 then do I turn it to 8 and now im at 200 and if I want to go to 100 I go back to 6?
 
You mean target turrets?

The idea is you zero your scope at whatever range you want, then adjust the turret so the "0" on the turret is aligned to that point. Most I have seen have a small allen screw that locks the turret in place, loosen it up you can spin the turret without moving the reticle.

The idea is that if you screw on an elevation and/or windage adjustment for a shot, it is easy to both make that adjustment, and return to your reference zero when you are done.

In other words, if you need to add 12 minutes of elevation, you spin the knob to the 12, rather than counting 48 clicks. When you are done, you spin it back to 0, rather than counting back 48 clicks.

target_turrets.jpg
 
Zero rest turrets make it easier to go back to zero.

Say your rifle is zeroed at 100yd, and you set it to zero on your turret. You don't touch the reset ring after that.

When you need to hit 200yd, you need to add 2 MOA. You simply turn the turret to 2, or 8 clicks. When you are done and want to go back to 100 yd zero, you just turn turret back to 0. Say another target is spotted at 700 yd. You dope table tells you to add 20 MOA. You simply turn turret to 20, or count 40 clicks.

-TL
 
not target turrets, these are big black plastic turrets marked with larger numbers and smaller hash marks in between.

I guess whats confusing me is right now the gun is at say 6 on the factory turret and if I life it and place it at zero what does that do?

what I did last year was sighted in at 100 with a dial of lets say 6 then shot at 200yards and that was lets say 8 or 2 inch difference so I made a cheat sheet for that. if I am at 6 now and lift and turn to 0 then want to shoot 200yards can I lift and put at 8 and im good then lift and go back to 6 for 100 or back to 0?
 
What exact scope do you have?

I suspect there is a way to index the turrets so you can put "0" at your zero.

In fact, I would be shocked if there wasn't a way to do that.
 
axis 223 you have it right . Most high power scopes are zeroed at 100 yards you can move the turret to the 0 mark or use your cheat sheet. You also can try a system I learned in the service called bracketing. Looking through your scope, were the scopes posts go from thick to thin, lower post 100m crosshaies 200m top post 300m with out moving your adjustments. Can shoot fast and keep you in the ball park. Just a fun thing to try.
 
what I did last year was sighted in at 100 with a dial of lets say 6 then shot at 200yards and that was lets say 8 or 2 inch difference so I made a cheat sheet for that. if I am at 6 now and lift and turn to 0 then want to shoot 200yards can I lift and put at 8 and im good then lift and go back to 6 for 100 or back to 0?
Click to expand...

You're overcomplicating (and overthinking) this... when I first read the title I thought you were talking about zero stop turrets. You're doing just the typical sight-in and zero setting. The turret settings from the factory are absolutely irrelevant, forget they exist.

If you decide on a 100 yard zero (which is typical, unless you shoot long range), get your crosshairs adjusted to point of impact , then set both your elevation and windage dials to "0" at that setting (try to do this on a windless day, or a day when wind is close to zero value).

This becomes your point of reference. All elevation and windage adjustments are based off this.

So in your example, at 100 yards you read "0" elevation, "0" windage. To go to 200 yards, dial up 2 minutes (not, "6 to 8").
"Cheat sheet" (dope) is great- and you can also download "Strelok" and other free ballisitc programs right to your Android phone which will compute them for you.
 
I guess how your turret works is this: when you pull the knob up, it free wheels(no clicks) so that you can set it down to put "0" to the index mark. Doing so you reset the turret without moving the optics zeroing. When you turn the knob without pulling it up, it moves the zeroing (clicks) and the index mark moves away from "0" accordingly.

That's how I would use your scope.

1. Zero at 100yd. Pull up the elevation knob and free wheel "0" to index mark. I will never pull up the knob ever again unless I want to re-zero the rifle. From now on everything clicks.

2. When I want to hit 200yd, I will turn the knob and advance "2" to the index mark. There should 8 clicks for that. Here I assume the numbers represent MOA.

3. When I am done, I will reverse 8 clicks to put the index mark back to "0". I don't really have to go back to "0" everytime, but it is a good habit.

-TL



Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
So called "bracketing" is very useful technique in practice. A lot of scopes don't have fancy zero reset turrets. It is nothing more than reticle assisted hold-over. It is reticle and, most of the time, magnification dependent thought.

My old Redfield wide-view has duplex reticle. At 9x magnification, post-to-post extends 8 MOA. I zero at 200yd. Up post is about 325 yd. Low post is about 75 yd.

BTW, I like 200 yd zero. It will hit poa +/- 3" 0 to 250 yd without any turret adjustment. It is my "battle sight".

-TL
 
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