Wood

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Wrothgar

Moderator
I've got two wood guns I'm interested in keeping for a long time; an RC Kar98 and a K-31. Question; how do I preserve the wood? While its humid here, it does get dry during the winter. Could I just use furniture polish, like Pledge? I don't want to redo it, mind you, just preserve it.

I've got a Mosin, but its got the CAI varnish on it, plus they're a dime a dozen :-).
 
I'd recommend just rubbing some hoppes 9 oil into the stock with your palm every couple of months. It isn't going to hurt it and it will prevent it from cracking and will help with the moisture. Linseed oil would do the same thing.

Pledge would probably work, but it's a wax, not an oil.

I'd wait and see what other people say though.:)
 
Firearm lubricant is one of the worst things you could put on your wood stocks. It will soften the wood fibers over time, and lead to deterioration of the stock.

Stripping and refinishing is the easiest way, but will look like you refinished the wood. Boiled linseed oil, various varnishes, shellac, and common firearm finishes are available and will look very good if you take your time and do it right.

If you want to preserve the stock, and do not want to strip and refinish it, you can remove all the metal fittings, then clean the wood with Murphy's Oil Soap, then wax the wood with TreWax or Johnson's Paste Wax to seal it. Several coats will seal the wood and make it impervious to water and wear. Solvents will still mar the finish, but it's pretty easy to put on another coat.
 
Linseed oil (boiled linseed oil is the name, not instructions for use) will darken the wood over time. The more you put on, the more it will darken. But it takes many coats.

If you want to preserve what currently exists, use wax.
 
To back up what 44 Amp said, it can also take years for the darkening to take place with BLO. I love the looks of a BLO finish and I am really satisfied with the results I've gotten even from a complete strip and refinish with BLO

But BLO is not the best moisture protectant. Actually I think it's kind of mediocre at that, isn't it? Pure Tung oil is better for that, if I recall
 
I've been using a product known as "Renaissance Wax" for a good many years now on both my modest accumulations of firearms and edged weapons. It was developed primarily for use by museums, etc. for the protection and preservation of artifacts during long-term storage or on display. It works beautifully on wood, metals and leather.

I have yet to experience a single instance of corrosion or other deterioration in condition on any item I've applied it to, even after remaining untouched over several years in storage. I recommend it highly.

It may seem exorbitantly expensive from a "per ounce" perspective, but when used as directed it requires only a remarkably small amount of product to protect an entire longarm or broadsword. I'm still working on a jar I bought almost five years ago, and expect it to last some years more unless my finances suddenly improve and I can start buying items for which I have virtually no practical purpose "just because I think it's cool" again. :D
 
All oils, being liquids, contain some amount of volitiles. In long term storage (months years, maybe decades, depending on the oil) they dry out.

Wax, properly applied, forms a complete barrier coating, and doesn't "dry out" like oils do.
 
I've made a paste from bee's wax, boiled linseed oil, and a little mineral spirits for gunstocks. It worked ok but it took trial and error for the right consistency, and in the end I just preferred BLO.

I still want to try this:

http://www.fairtrimmers.com/
 
To be honest, this is the very first time I have ever heard the term "Wood Guns", and I have been around for a while. First thought was..this gives the term "burned out barrel" a whole new meaning!, next thought was Termites!
 
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