Wood stocks in Cold Weather
- Thread starter Clevinger
- Start date
I have used wood here in Wyoming, and I have also used it in Alaska in some very cold temps and it's been fine.
The Marines used wood on M1s in the Chosin Reservoir in the Korean War and the Army used them in the battle of the bulge in WW2.
All the Canadians used them for hunting from the days of the flintlock until about the 1960 for their hunting.
Plastic is fine, but the idea that you MUST have it for cold weather is just a marketing ploy. If you like wood use it!
The Marines used wood on M1s in the Chosin Reservoir in the Korean War and the Army used them in the battle of the bulge in WW2.
All the Canadians used them for hunting from the days of the flintlock until about the 1960 for their hunting.
Plastic is fine, but the idea that you MUST have it for cold weather is just a marketing ploy. If you like wood use it!
No need to go the crappy plastic route. The key to preventing problems with a wood stock, in cold and wet weather, is ensuring that the wood is properly and completely SEALED. If sealed, there will be no moisture change possible in the wood....and no problems related to that.
Most wood stocks sold with off-the- shelf rifles these days are finished with polyurethane. That is as good as it gets for a moisture resistant finish. However, very few such stocks are properly finished INSIDE the inletting. That is where most of the problems begin. Moisture gets in, soaks into the wood, etc. etc.
The solution is very simple. Ensure that the stock is sealed, inside and out. So, I would highly recommend adding several coats of poly to the INSIDE surfaces of the wood stock (ALL of the inside surfaces)....as well as touching up any imperfect areas on the outside surfaces. You can also wax the outside, for additional protection.
Be sure that ALL areas are sealed. This includes small areas often overlooked, such as around sling swivels, etc.
If you have a wood stock with an oil finish, then it will be somewhat more delicate and maintenance-intensive, but still doable. I would still use poly to seal the inside surfaces (no one will see them). Then, add several coats of wax to the outer surfaces.
More maintenance will be required with a wood stock - that is a fact of life. Be prepared for it. If you can't handle that aspect, then better to go the plastic crap route.
The point is, people have been taking wood stocked guns into the field forever, with no problems. You simply have to look after the details and do the maintenance. For myself, I can say that I have never had any problems with wood stocks in the field and I have had them out in rain, snow, you name it.
Most wood stocks sold with off-the- shelf rifles these days are finished with polyurethane. That is as good as it gets for a moisture resistant finish. However, very few such stocks are properly finished INSIDE the inletting. That is where most of the problems begin. Moisture gets in, soaks into the wood, etc. etc.
The solution is very simple. Ensure that the stock is sealed, inside and out. So, I would highly recommend adding several coats of poly to the INSIDE surfaces of the wood stock (ALL of the inside surfaces)....as well as touching up any imperfect areas on the outside surfaces. You can also wax the outside, for additional protection.
Be sure that ALL areas are sealed. This includes small areas often overlooked, such as around sling swivels, etc.
If you have a wood stock with an oil finish, then it will be somewhat more delicate and maintenance-intensive, but still doable. I would still use poly to seal the inside surfaces (no one will see them). Then, add several coats of wax to the outer surfaces.
More maintenance will be required with a wood stock - that is a fact of life. Be prepared for it. If you can't handle that aspect, then better to go the plastic crap route.
The point is, people have been taking wood stocked guns into the field forever, with no problems. You simply have to look after the details and do the maintenance. For myself, I can say that I have never had any problems with wood stocks in the field and I have had them out in rain, snow, you name it.
wood is good !!
I have always used wood/blue guns in all weather conditions, if gets wet I dry it off, if it gets cold I warm it up, If you have real concerns get a laminate stock (best of both worlds).
I must confess, I do have one synthetic stocked rifle, and it is very accurate, but I am drawn to the wood stocked ones.
I have always used wood/blue guns in all weather conditions, if gets wet I dry it off, if it gets cold I warm it up, If you have real concerns get a laminate stock (best of both worlds).
I must confess, I do have one synthetic stocked rifle, and it is very accurate, but I am drawn to the wood stocked ones.
And they all had issues with them, some failed outright and about 3-4 MOA was all they could expect from their wood stocked rifles. Wood has been used on firearms for 500 years. Shooters have looked for a better replacement for 400 years and we have had a better option since the 1970's. Why not take advantage of it?
Wood has been splitting, cracking, warping and changing dimensions as temperature, humidity and altitude change since the beginning of time. It is just what wood does and there is no way to prevent it. It can be somewhat limited, not completely eliminated. Shooters years ago just learned to deal with such things and accept them as a normal part of shooting because there was really no other option.
It isn't necessarily cold, or moisture that effects the wood, but CHANGES in those conditions. Weatherproofing the wood helps, but a wood stock has 10-15% of its weight in water trapped inside naturally. It is this moisture that expands and contracts inside the stock even if you could completely seal it.
A rifle kept in areas of high humidity, constant cold, heat, or altitude do pretty well. But take a rifle from Arizona to Alaska and you will see POI changes and in rare cases complete stock failure. Same thing if you take a rifle fron Alaska to Arizona. Or from sea level up to 10,000'. Sometimes much less changes will cause problems. I've seen too many stocks change POI as conditions change, and even a few that split or cracked.
Wood is OK if you are willing to accept the fact that you will never see your rifles true accuracy potential. And that as environmental conditions change you may well see your POI change. And if you don't hunt in harsh conditions.
If you like wood then get wood...just pick a rifle with a floated barrel. The main problem with wood in extreme environments is it changes shape. Since the wood grain isn't straight it can twist and turn and if it is touching the barrel it can cause changes in POI. If it doesn't touch the barrel then the effect is lessened.
By the same token, steel can change at extremes as well so even a full floated composite stock won't take all the variables away.
By the same token, steel can change at extremes as well so even a full floated composite stock won't take all the variables away.
Few people know of the problems synthetic stocks had on the first M14 and M1A competition rifles when those "plastic" ones were first used. Laying a rifle atop a shooting stool in the hot sun allowed one side of the stock to heat up. That caused more expansion on that side and the stock bowed. That caused pressure to change from one side at the stock ferrule. Zero's changed.
Nary such problems with the wood stocked M1's, M14's and M1A's. I've shot the same wood stocked Garand in temperatures from the upper 20's to over 100 degrees F and never had a zero change.
Nary such problems with the wood stocked M1's, M14's and M1A's. I've shot the same wood stocked Garand in temperatures from the upper 20's to over 100 degrees F and never had a zero change.
SteelChickenShooter
New member
Keep them nice?
I favor "European style" wood. To me that means utility. not glossy, not premium to the point where a ding or scratch would spoil it. I'm a nock-around, bang-around, oops-scrape hunter. I use a rifle and don't baby it. I expect it to be used and look the part. A plain wood with a stain & oil finish and I'm good with that. A little steel wool & oil over the bangs, dings & scrapes and I'm good with that. The dents and non-pristine finish looks good to me. I actually have a shop project right now by stripping the cheap factory spray finish off my Marlin and applying some dark stain & oil to make it look closer to my Zastava .22 silhouette rifle. Now that's a rifle you can handle with sweaty palms and bang around at the range and it keeps getting better.
I'd like to follow up after some hours working on my Marlin. I do like synthetic, and I do buy it. The theory I have is in regard to keeping a beautiful wood stock in pristine condition. I'm not one that would buy a pickup truck and then be so afraid to get a scratch. However, if you have a presentation grade piece of wood with a super high gloss finish, it would be a shame to get it damaged spoiling the appearance.
I'm sort of impatient. I've been hurrying my Marlin stripping, scraping & rinsing then drying. First application of dark walnut on the stock and I'm getting the desired results anyway. This rifle is going to look much better to me with stain & oil. There's just no way to spoil the looks. Scratches in the harder factory finish are gone. The dents just soak a bit more stain giving the rifle a well used and older look. It is 37 years old, and now it looks 50 or better.
Has every bit of character that you would find on my grandfather's & uncle's deer rifles. Every bit as much. Is this an easy "to keep nice"? Absolutely.
I favor "European style" wood. To me that means utility. not glossy, not premium to the point where a ding or scratch would spoil it. I'm a nock-around, bang-around, oops-scrape hunter. I use a rifle and don't baby it. I expect it to be used and look the part. A plain wood with a stain & oil finish and I'm good with that. A little steel wool & oil over the bangs, dings & scrapes and I'm good with that. The dents and non-pristine finish looks good to me. I actually have a shop project right now by stripping the cheap factory spray finish off my Marlin and applying some dark stain & oil to make it look closer to my Zastava .22 silhouette rifle. Now that's a rifle you can handle with sweaty palms and bang around at the range and it keeps getting better.
I'd like to follow up after some hours working on my Marlin. I do like synthetic, and I do buy it. The theory I have is in regard to keeping a beautiful wood stock in pristine condition. I'm not one that would buy a pickup truck and then be so afraid to get a scratch. However, if you have a presentation grade piece of wood with a super high gloss finish, it would be a shame to get it damaged spoiling the appearance.
I'm sort of impatient. I've been hurrying my Marlin stripping, scraping & rinsing then drying. First application of dark walnut on the stock and I'm getting the desired results anyway. This rifle is going to look much better to me with stain & oil. There's just no way to spoil the looks. Scratches in the harder factory finish are gone. The dents just soak a bit more stain giving the rifle a well used and older look. It is 37 years old, and now it looks 50 or better.
Has every bit of character that you would find on my grandfather's & uncle's deer rifles. Every bit as much. Is this an easy "to keep nice"? Absolutely.
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It isn't the heat or cold that effects wood stocks, its moisture.
If you're concerned about moisture effecting your stock then impregnate it with a sealer. It means putting the stock in a cabinet and heating it until all the moisture is out, then put some sort of sealer on the stock (in the stock) to seal up all the pores.
That's the method used in sniper rifles such as the M21, M24, M40s (when they still used wood stocks).
But normally this isn't that bad of a problem. I hunted on Afognak Island (near Kodiak AK) a couple times, it rains. One trip it rained constantly for over a week. I was using my stock Model 70, 375 H&H. I was out most of the day, every day. I didn't have a problem. I was more concerned about metal. I wiped it down and coated it with RIG every night. No rust.
If you're concerned about moisture effecting your stock then impregnate it with a sealer. It means putting the stock in a cabinet and heating it until all the moisture is out, then put some sort of sealer on the stock (in the stock) to seal up all the pores.
That's the method used in sniper rifles such as the M21, M24, M40s (when they still used wood stocks).
But normally this isn't that bad of a problem. I hunted on Afognak Island (near Kodiak AK) a couple times, it rains. One trip it rained constantly for over a week. I was using my stock Model 70, 375 H&H. I was out most of the day, every day. I didn't have a problem. I was more concerned about metal. I wiped it down and coated it with RIG every night. No rust.
steveNChunter
New member
I think the OP needs a laminate stock. Then you can have the wood look without all the wood worries.
Or if you went with a synthetic, you could get one of those new "wood tech" remington 700 SPS
Or if you went with a synthetic, you could get one of those new "wood tech" remington 700 SPS
Major Dave (retired)
New member
"..can you keep them nice...?"
I cover mine with a set of Beartooth camo covers. One piece slides over the barrel, another over the butt stock, another over the forend, and one over the scope.
They are made of a rubberized material with a cloth outer layer. Not only do they protect from rain, and scratches, but also makes a soft, warmer spot weld for your cheek when shooting.
Did I mention they come in camo colors/patterns?
And they muffle the noise of any little unexpected bump up against a tree or the window ledge of a box blind, etc., when you raise up your rifle to shoot.
What's not to like?
I cover mine with a set of Beartooth camo covers. One piece slides over the barrel, another over the butt stock, another over the forend, and one over the scope.
They are made of a rubberized material with a cloth outer layer. Not only do they protect from rain, and scratches, but also makes a soft, warmer spot weld for your cheek when shooting.
Did I mention they come in camo colors/patterns?
And they muffle the noise of any little unexpected bump up against a tree or the window ledge of a box blind, etc., when you raise up your rifle to shoot.
What's not to like?
Wood; solid or laminates
I have hunted winters in northern Wisconsin and Minnesota as well as native Iowa. Hunting in cold weather makes one, feel alive. .....
The worst stock damage I have ever sustained, was hunting in the warm rain, in Alabama. .....
Synthetics are certainly overdone but they do have their place. If I ever get to hunt in Alaska, I'd give them some serious thought. ....
Stay dry and;
Be Safe !!!
I have hunted winters in northern Wisconsin and Minnesota as well as native Iowa. Hunting in cold weather makes one, feel alive. .....
The worst stock damage I have ever sustained, was hunting in the warm rain, in Alabama. .....
Synthetics are certainly overdone but they do have their place. If I ever get to hunt in Alaska, I'd give them some serious thought. ....
Stay dry and;
Be Safe !!!
Remingtons 700 stocks are well sealed from the factory, but many people who install recoil pads or cut their stocks to fit them forget to seal the new cuts. Those, and stocks that have never been sealed and taken hunting in the wet or snow have shown swelling at the butt, especially if set down butt first in wet snow.
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Don't take your butts for granted !!!
Be Sure and;
Be Safe !!!
Well, the one I had a problem with, was a Remington 7400 as there was absolutely no protection, under the butt-plate. When working with wood, laminated or solid, you should not take it for granted that it is sealed in that area. You won't like the results. Whenever I refinish a stock, I make sure to pay attention to this. I suppose you can say the same for the grip-cap area. ..
Be Sure and;
Be Safe !!!
Any good quality spray polyurethane will do for sealing the inside areas. As regards brands, Minwax, Spar (also a Minwax product, I think), as well as many others, will do the job.
If the outside surfaces are polyurethane (most factory wood-stocks are finished with poly), then you can use the same stuff for any outside surfaces needing touch-up. As others mentioned already, DON'T forget under the butt plate and grip cap, etc.
If the stock in question is oil finished, then I'd recommend giving it several additional THIN coats of BLO or Tung oil, depending on which it has already....followed as a last step by a couple of good coats of wax (something like Johnson's Paste Wax will do nicely). Most likely, oil finishing will not be an issue, as I assume that you will probably buy an off the rack factory rifle (probably poly finished).
Oh, you can certainly wax a poly finished stock, as well.....as an extra measure of protection. Your choice.
If the outside surfaces are polyurethane (most factory wood-stocks are finished with poly), then you can use the same stuff for any outside surfaces needing touch-up. As others mentioned already, DON'T forget under the butt plate and grip cap, etc.
If the stock in question is oil finished, then I'd recommend giving it several additional THIN coats of BLO or Tung oil, depending on which it has already....followed as a last step by a couple of good coats of wax (something like Johnson's Paste Wax will do nicely). Most likely, oil finishing will not be an issue, as I assume that you will probably buy an off the rack factory rifle (probably poly finished).
Oh, you can certainly wax a poly finished stock, as well.....as an extra measure of protection. Your choice.
Laminates are more stable than hardwood.
Seal it completely. Epoxy bed the receiver, and install pillars. This eliminates the minute dimensional changes in the wood from creating stress points on the receiver, or affecting action screw torque values.
There is still a large number of laminate stocks (in all their wild colors)-probably still a majority- on the firing lines at benchrest and F-Class competitions.
Seal it completely. Epoxy bed the receiver, and install pillars. This eliminates the minute dimensional changes in the wood from creating stress points on the receiver, or affecting action screw torque values.
There is still a large number of laminate stocks (in all their wild colors)-probably still a majority- on the firing lines at benchrest and F-Class competitions.