As an older guy (60's), living in a winter climate, and already had one heart attack, I value experienced advice. Given that I am not a knifeologist, but do carry a sidearm and Asp when walking my dogs - rural, safe neighborhood - 'cuz of my concern over a dog attack. So, given wet weather, light to medium gloves, a preference for opening with my left hand, and up to $90 or so, what are the options? Thanks.
Winter weather folders
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I'd go with a Spyderco Endura. It's got a stainless steel blade and a zytel handle and a simple design. It will be very weather proof and the blade has a large hole in it to permit either one-handed thumb opening or index finger opening.
Additionally, the newer models have a pocket clip that can be switched to either side of the knife so that you can use it left or right-handed. I suggest the fully or partially-serrated blade as serrated blades still "cut" when they're dull.
They're about $40 or so and Spyderco makes really nice stuff. Here's a link: http://store.knifecenter.com/pgi-CustomListProducts?Spyderco%20Endura%20Models,2,16,=,sp,&,60,=,endura
Additionally, the newer models have a pocket clip that can be switched to either side of the knife so that you can use it left or right-handed. I suggest the fully or partially-serrated blade as serrated blades still "cut" when they're dull.
They're about $40 or so and Spyderco makes really nice stuff. Here's a link: http://store.knifecenter.com/pgi-CustomListProducts?Spyderco%20Endura%20Models,2,16,=,sp,&,60,=,endura
Another vote for the Spyderco Endura. The Endura '98 to be exact. You can switch the clip for left side pocket by using a coin. The Endura is probably the best over all knife out there for the money. There are several Spyderco knives with this feature, so if the Endura '98 is not your style there are others.
If you want to spend a little more, the Benchmade AFCK left hand model is also a good choice. There is also a left hand version of the Benchmade Stryker if the geo tanto style blade suits your fancy.
The best thing I can recommend is that you go to www.bladeforums.com
That site is loaded with information and lots of friendly knife savvy people.
If you want to spend a little more, the Benchmade AFCK left hand model is also a good choice. There is also a left hand version of the Benchmade Stryker if the geo tanto style blade suits your fancy.
The best thing I can recommend is that you go to www.bladeforums.com
That site is loaded with information and lots of friendly knife savvy people.
Thanks.I can't disagree with the comments on the Endura as a value for the money, but just to make your life a little more complicated <g> I'll suggest that you look at the Benchmade Axis locks. Slick, strong, fast, reliable. More money -- maybe $115 for the larger version if you shop around, but you get value for the extra dollar. Read a review: www.equipped.com/axis.htm
I vote for the Cold Steel Vaquero Grande over the Endura, it is superior in just about every way.
-The 6 inch blade is long enough for defensive purposes, remember, blade length is sorta like stopping power when it comes to knives. However the knive is still surprisingly compact.
-The lock strength is for superior to any knife made by Spyderco. Where is the video of the lock-strength testing that Spyderco has done to their knife? At what amount of force will it withstand? Remember that the only thing keeping that blade open and not cutting through you finger, which BTW you can't get a warrenty replacement on, is the strength of the lock. I'd think you would want to know how much force the lock will withstand without failing.
-The Nogales Clip point design of the blade makes it equally efficient at both cutting and stabbing, something that cannot be said about all blade designs.
-Related to the above item, the cutting ability of the Vaquero is far superior to the endura. I would sure like to see Spyderco make a video showing what kind of cutting abilities their knives have.
-The superior quality steel make the Vaquero more rugged the the endura. AUS-8A is far superior to the ATS-34 steel that Spyderco uses for their knives, it is more durable and holds its edge better.
The only disadvantage I can see to the Cold Steel knife is resharpening. The serations do make the knife harder to resharpen. This should not be that big of a deal since serated knives should be resharpened by a profesional knifesmith anyway.
-The 6 inch blade is long enough for defensive purposes, remember, blade length is sorta like stopping power when it comes to knives. However the knive is still surprisingly compact.
-The lock strength is for superior to any knife made by Spyderco. Where is the video of the lock-strength testing that Spyderco has done to their knife? At what amount of force will it withstand? Remember that the only thing keeping that blade open and not cutting through you finger, which BTW you can't get a warrenty replacement on, is the strength of the lock. I'd think you would want to know how much force the lock will withstand without failing.
-The Nogales Clip point design of the blade makes it equally efficient at both cutting and stabbing, something that cannot be said about all blade designs.
-Related to the above item, the cutting ability of the Vaquero is far superior to the endura. I would sure like to see Spyderco make a video showing what kind of cutting abilities their knives have.
-The superior quality steel make the Vaquero more rugged the the endura. AUS-8A is far superior to the ATS-34 steel that Spyderco uses for their knives, it is more durable and holds its edge better.
The only disadvantage I can see to the Cold Steel knife is resharpening. The serations do make the knife harder to resharpen. This should not be that big of a deal since serated knives should be resharpened by a profesional knifesmith anyway.
G50AE, I have to disagree with you on some points. A six-inch blade on a knife may or may not be legal in some areas so that's something that must be considered. A bigger blade doesn't necessarily make it more deadly, it's the operator that makes it deadly.
It's not like stopping power. If you have a 6 inch blade but only contact with the last 1 inch of the blade, it's the same as getting all of a one inch blade. If you get cut with a 6 inch blade to the back of the arm, it's not the same as getting stabbed in the throat with a 1 inch blade.
In reference to "stopping power", who's worse off: A person getting shot at with a .454Casull and missing or a person getting shot with a 9mm center mass? If the operator is skilled, he/she can make any blade efficient for slashing/stabbing. Furthermore, carrying a knife with the intent to use it for defense or bragging that the knife is for that purpose may not agree with your local LE.
No, Spyderco and most all other brands and professional makers don't have videos of their knives' abuse. I guess they all must not be very good because they don't have a video. I agree that lock strength is important in a folding knife. I've done all sorts of stuff with my Spyderco and never had the lock fail.
If in the event one is concerned about said lock strength, one can remedy that by going to a liner lock or new locks like the Axis lock. Personally, I think that if one is to do work that is so heavy that the lock strength may be in question, I think a fixed blade knife is in order. Folding knives and most knives in general aren't prybars, screwdrivers, or swords and they shouldn't be treated as such.
You may be interested to know that Spyderco uses AUS-8A steel for their blades. Some of the newer ones use ATS-55, while a few use ATS-34. You can get into a lot of debate as to which is the better steel. AUS-8A is similar to 440C. Compared to ATS-34, it's usually a bit less in the edge-holding but better in the corrosion resistance department; but not by much.
Serrated knives don't necessarily have to be sharpened by a pro. If one doesn't feel confident about it, that's the way to go, but there are good sharpeners out there like the Lansky and Spyderco that work perfectly with serrated edges. You can also use a round stick ceramic stone on each of the serrations, depending on the type of serrations, though it's time consuming.
There are a ton of junky knives and a ton of good knives out there; there are however, no universally "best" ones. Only the ones that are best for you. Regards.
It's not like stopping power. If you have a 6 inch blade but only contact with the last 1 inch of the blade, it's the same as getting all of a one inch blade. If you get cut with a 6 inch blade to the back of the arm, it's not the same as getting stabbed in the throat with a 1 inch blade.
In reference to "stopping power", who's worse off: A person getting shot at with a .454Casull and missing or a person getting shot with a 9mm center mass? If the operator is skilled, he/she can make any blade efficient for slashing/stabbing. Furthermore, carrying a knife with the intent to use it for defense or bragging that the knife is for that purpose may not agree with your local LE.
No, Spyderco and most all other brands and professional makers don't have videos of their knives' abuse. I guess they all must not be very good because they don't have a video. I agree that lock strength is important in a folding knife. I've done all sorts of stuff with my Spyderco and never had the lock fail.
If in the event one is concerned about said lock strength, one can remedy that by going to a liner lock or new locks like the Axis lock. Personally, I think that if one is to do work that is so heavy that the lock strength may be in question, I think a fixed blade knife is in order. Folding knives and most knives in general aren't prybars, screwdrivers, or swords and they shouldn't be treated as such.
You may be interested to know that Spyderco uses AUS-8A steel for their blades. Some of the newer ones use ATS-55, while a few use ATS-34. You can get into a lot of debate as to which is the better steel. AUS-8A is similar to 440C. Compared to ATS-34, it's usually a bit less in the edge-holding but better in the corrosion resistance department; but not by much.
Serrated knives don't necessarily have to be sharpened by a pro. If one doesn't feel confident about it, that's the way to go, but there are good sharpeners out there like the Lansky and Spyderco that work perfectly with serrated edges. You can also use a round stick ceramic stone on each of the serrations, depending on the type of serrations, though it's time consuming.
There are a ton of junky knives and a ton of good knives out there; there are however, no universally "best" ones. Only the ones that are best for you. Regards.
Take a look at the CRKT Crawford Kasper. It is 9" overall with a 4" blade. It is a good size knife in every way, very sturdy, with a large thumb stud easily operated from either side. It has a liner lock with an additional manual thumb lock that locks the liner lock. There is nothing tiny or delicate about the knife, and it should be easy to open with gloves. A super bargain at under $40. (See the Store at the Blade Forum mentioned above.)