Windage screws.. How do they work?
- Thread starter J270
- Start date
Short answer: they are for holding the rear ring in place while offering the ability to center the scope's line of sight with the line of the bore.
Long answer: Many years ago, scopes came without windage or elevation turrets, and many acope mounting systems were designed to both mount the scope solidly and allow adjustment of the scope for sighting purposes. These mounts had both elevation and windage adjustments built into the bases. A few were very popular and well made, others not so much. As scopes developed further, and elevation/windage adjustments became part of the scope, the elevation adjustment was dropped as superfluous, and the windage adjustments were retained, as they were an integral part of the mounting system as well as the windage adjustment screws. Over the years, other systems have tried to supplant the dovetail front/screws rear system, such as the Beuhler system, ConeTrol system, the Dual Dovetail system,, several QD systems, as well as the Weaver and Picatinny systems, but the design originally patented by Redfield has stuck around, now licensed to several other companies.
Long answer: Many years ago, scopes came without windage or elevation turrets, and many acope mounting systems were designed to both mount the scope solidly and allow adjustment of the scope for sighting purposes. These mounts had both elevation and windage adjustments built into the bases. A few were very popular and well made, others not so much. As scopes developed further, and elevation/windage adjustments became part of the scope, the elevation adjustment was dropped as superfluous, and the windage adjustments were retained, as they were an integral part of the mounting system as well as the windage adjustment screws. Over the years, other systems have tried to supplant the dovetail front/screws rear system, such as the Beuhler system, ConeTrol system, the Dual Dovetail system,, several QD systems, as well as the Weaver and Picatinny systems, but the design originally patented by Redfield has stuck around, now licensed to several other companies.
Just for general information these allow you to center your right and left adjustment with your scope adjustment still centered. Long rande shooting is better this way. Also if the base mounting screws aren't straight with the bore this helps get you lined up . I've had the holes so far off on some guns that the internal scope adjustments couldn't move far enough to get a zero. ED K
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
A starting point is to center the crosshairs in the scope. Turn the adjustment so it's all the way to one side. Then go all the way back across, counting the clicks. After that, go halfway back: That's the middle. You can do the same for the vertical.
Then boresight, adjusting the mount as best you can for centering the crosshairs on the target. I generally set the rifle on some sort of fairly solid rest, whether the benchrest or books and towels on the dining table and a view through a window. It's just a matter of tweaking and twiddling until some object at a distance is centered in the barrel and the crosshairs are on it.
I zero first at 25 yards. I draw lines on typing paper for a target, taped to a cardboard box. Cheap.
Zeroed at 25 is commonly about 3" high at 100.
Deer cartridges? The vast majority, if set for 2" high at 100 will be dead on at 200 and around 6" low at 300. Give or take an inch, maybe. Close enough to ruin Bambi's day, anyhow.
I generally sight in with three-shot groups, moving the imaginary group center to the desired point of aim...
Then boresight, adjusting the mount as best you can for centering the crosshairs on the target. I generally set the rifle on some sort of fairly solid rest, whether the benchrest or books and towels on the dining table and a view through a window. It's just a matter of tweaking and twiddling until some object at a distance is centered in the barrel and the crosshairs are on it.
I zero first at 25 yards. I draw lines on typing paper for a target, taped to a cardboard box. Cheap.
Zeroed at 25 is commonly about 3" high at 100.Deer cartridges? The vast majority, if set for 2" high at 100 will be dead on at 200 and around 6" low at 300. Give or take an inch, maybe. Close enough to ruin Bambi's day, anyhow.
I generally sight in with three-shot groups, moving the imaginary group center to the desired point of aim...
thank you for the info ,
Lets say you use the windage screws on the mount to move the scope left to right. whould that cause the front rings to bind with the scope
Whould you recomend the Leuopld std one piece, or the wever style mounts.
This is a flat rear receiver, not many options on mounts.
Lets say you use the windage screws on the mount to move the scope left to right. whould that cause the front rings to bind with the scope
Whould you recomend the Leuopld std one piece, or the wever style mounts.
This is a flat rear receiver, not many options on mounts.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
"...would that cause the front rings to bind with the scope?"
Personal opinion, but I don't think it would be enough to matter. I had to do a bit of sideways adjusting on an old Model 70, but everything worked out just fine.
I started using Weaver rings and bases in 1950, and have never had the first sign of a problem. Conetrols are prettier, but they don't hold any better.
I dunno. I just never have liked one-piece mounts. Mostly because they're sorta in the way, particularly when unloading and checking the chamber for empty. I like to stick my pinkie into the chamber as a last check before closing the bolt. (My father started me on doing that after he had an in-the-bedroom Oopsie with a .257 Roberts.)
Personal opinion, but I don't think it would be enough to matter. I had to do a bit of sideways adjusting on an old Model 70, but everything worked out just fine.
I started using Weaver rings and bases in 1950, and have never had the first sign of a problem. Conetrols are prettier, but they don't hold any better.
I dunno. I just never have liked one-piece mounts. Mostly because they're sorta in the way, particularly when unloading and checking the chamber for empty. I like to stick my pinkie into the chamber as a last check before closing the bolt. (My father started me on doing that after he had an in-the-bedroom Oopsie with a .257 Roberts.
)HuntAndFish
New member
I lap the rings just for this reason. Mount the scope and get it lined up and adjust the rings where to need them with a bore sight (or eyeball down the bore method). Then pull the scope and lap the rings so they are straight. Then do final mounting of the scope.
The front rings are made to pivot in the bases, so no it won't hurt anything.
Just my personal preference, but I wouldn't use the windage adjustable mounts unless I had to. Years ago most rifles were not drilled and tapped for mounts and it was not uncommon for the gunsmith who drilled them to not get everything in perfect alignment. The windage adjustable mounts could correct for imperfect mounting holes. In very rare cases today you will see a factory rifle with the holes not drilled in alignment with the barrel and this type of mount is necessary.
As long as the mounting holes are drilled correctly there are many much better mounting options. These will work, but are much more complex, heavy and hard to work with than really needed. Once mounted there is much more to go wrong and cause problems later as well.
Just my personal preference, but I wouldn't use the windage adjustable mounts unless I had to. Years ago most rifles were not drilled and tapped for mounts and it was not uncommon for the gunsmith who drilled them to not get everything in perfect alignment. The windage adjustable mounts could correct for imperfect mounting holes. In very rare cases today you will see a factory rifle with the holes not drilled in alignment with the barrel and this type of mount is necessary.
As long as the mounting holes are drilled correctly there are many much better mounting options. These will work, but are much more complex, heavy and hard to work with than really needed. Once mounted there is much more to go wrong and cause problems later as well.
The last post must be correct because I've had two rifles in a couple years that were way off. Major manufactures . I put a solid weaver type base on the one and 2 different scopes and could not get windage adjustments to go far enough. I changed to the windage screw type with the Burris rings with the plastic collars and cured it. Rifle shot very well after all the bs. @nd rifle wasn't as bad but still required the screw type bases. ED K
Thanks for the replys
Ok so, If you had a Savage 110 in 243 with a flat rear receiver (pre Accutrig)
And were going to put a Leu VXII What mounts and rings would you go with.
and another thing I thout that a savage 10 was a S.A and a 110 was L.A
but my wifes rifle is a modle 110 243.
Ok so, If you had a Savage 110 in 243 with a flat rear receiver (pre Accutrig)
And were going to put a Leu VXII What mounts and rings would you go with.
and another thing I thout that a savage 10 was a S.A and a 110 was L.A
but my wifes rifle is a modle 110 243.
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
Me being somewhat of a cheapskate, I'd likely go with my old standby Weavers. There are plenty of other brands which are just as good. As long as you stay away from El Cheapo stuff, I've never seen where any particular setup is better than any other.
I'm not talking about special target-type setups; just basic hunting guns.
I'm not talking about special target-type setups; just basic hunting guns.
HuntAndFish
New member
If you already have the scope, I would get some Play-Doh or some Klean Klay modeling clay and get the scope mounted on the gun how I want it. Ideally, as low as possible but still having bolt clearance. Then measure with a caliper from the action to the scope body and look around for rings as close to that height as possible.
Brands I would favor (in order) are:
Talley
Warne
Leupold
Weaver
Burris
Most of these manufacturers have a scope base and ring chart available to help you. Like this one:
Warne Scope Mounts
For instance, according to this chart, if you wanted steel 2 piece bases, you would need M902/936. Once you have that, look at the ring chart and find the right height you need and the correct ring size (1", 30mm, etc) for your scope. You can find the ring size (scope tube size) at leupold's web site for the scope you have.
Another good way to do it is to take the gun down to the local gunshop and have the guys/gals down there help you fit a set of rings and bases to your gun using your scope. As long as you pick one of the major manufacturers, I don't think you will go wrong.
Brands I would favor (in order) are:
Talley
Warne
Leupold
Weaver
Burris
Most of these manufacturers have a scope base and ring chart available to help you. Like this one:
Warne Scope Mounts
For instance, according to this chart, if you wanted steel 2 piece bases, you would need M902/936. Once you have that, look at the ring chart and find the right height you need and the correct ring size (1", 30mm, etc) for your scope. You can find the ring size (scope tube size) at leupold's web site for the scope you have.
Another good way to do it is to take the gun down to the local gunshop and have the guys/gals down there help you fit a set of rings and bases to your gun using your scope. As long as you pick one of the major manufacturers, I don't think you will go wrong.
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