Windage Screw Torque

C

Clevinger

New member
I just finished mounting a Zeiss Conquest with Leupold standard bases.

My understanding is that 30-40 in/lb of torque is typically recommended for windage screws. I used 35 in/lb...good enough?

I heard Leupold has "STD Windage Screws -45in/lbs" listed on the package (which I tossed). That seems like a lot. Is that the max torque? Am I good at 35 in/lb on the torque like I used?
 
Unless your scope doesn't have enough adjustment to get zeroed without them I'd not recommend ever using windage adjustable mounts.
 
Unless your scope doesn't have enough adjustment to get zeroed without them I'd not recommend ever using windage adjustable mounts.
Click to expand...

This will be the last time. I think they are a pain. I'd use dual dovetail after this.
 
The main deal with any torque spec is so that vibration won't cause a bolt to loosen. IMO, most of these torque specs, nowadays, is to prevent over-tightening by novices.

I like the windage adjustment. It allows centering of the vertical crosshair, and then adjust the mount to within a click or two of center. Scopes seem to work best when the crosshairs are relatively close to center. Seems so to me, anyway, although I'm not necessarily hard and fast in that opinion. :)
 
I've been using Leupold mounts with windage screws on a number of rifles for years and have never had a problem with them, and that includes those that I installed without the use of a torque driver. I think you'll be fine Clevinger.
 
I hate windage mounts with front dovetails. I believe they are inherently less stable than Weaver Top Mount bases and rings.
 
I set some up for my 1903A4 clone.I used a Lyman Alaskan.Its a 7/8 scope.Rings are scarce and expensive.Many of them have the little crescent shape cuts damaged by recoil.
I studied that skinny little rear ring a while,thinking about recoil and failure.

I decided those windage screws and the crescent cuts just are not the place to absorb recoil.The front rotary dovetail is for recoil.

Make sure the scope will not slip in the front ring.

For the rear ring,I only tightened the ring clamp screw enough I could feel the ring drag on the tube.I also put a little moly grease between the ring and the tube.I put blue Loctite on that screw.All I want that ring to do is keep the scope pointed right.

I fist centered the reticle by counting clicks stop to stop.I used blue Loctite on the windage screws and sandbag boresighted the rifle via the windage screws.I used a precision 25 cent piece as a driver and one semi-white knuckle with just a little squinty eye to tighten the screws.

So far,so good.Time will tell.

I cheated a little on the front ring.I turned a thin walled sleeve out of seamless drawn 4130 tubing,parkerized it,took the ocular off my scope,slipped the sleeve up to rest against the rear surface the front ring,and set it with loctites strongest sleeve and bearing retainer compound.Now my scope has a recoil lug for the front ring.

I prefer the Weaver/Picatinny system.Old school,they often used a drill press and punch to locate holes,or,better,a drill jig.IMO,using a Bridgeport makes windage screws less necessary.
 
"I used a precision 25 cent piece as a driver and one semi-white knuckle with just a little squinty eye to tighten the screws."

You forgot to mention when tightening, you have to hold your tongue out- "just right".
 
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