Winchester 1897 Pump Scattergun
- Thread starter sltm1
- Start date
Andy Griffith
New member
I love 97's, but I'm no gunsmith.
It is not like modern pumps, and is more complicated yet a good solid platform that has stood the test of time.
You didn't specify the gauge- either 12 or 16 it will be, and the chamber length needs to be checked, as the earlier guns have short chambers in both gauges.
What is the prefix above or below the serial number if any? Is it a solid frame or takedown? Any special markings or features or is there checkering on the stock? If the stock has a pistol grip, is the pistol grip rounded or flat bottomed? Steel or hard rubber buttplate?
The action will likely need a good through cleaning even if it has been well kept- you can do if if you can yourself if mechanically inclined, if not, take it to a good gunsmith- he can also check the lock-up and the chamber length at the same time. The lock up is the single most important thing to check- if it's gummy from years of dried lubrication and powder residue it may not work reliably. Also, I don't know if it is a product of wear or of owners "adjusting" the overtravel screw behind the trigger, but sometimes the screws hold the triggers out too far and do not allow reliable cocking of the hammer when the action is manipulated.
There are some much more knowledgeable fellers on here than me, and they'll be along shortly- there are also some good websites devoted to the 1897, and also a couple of shop manuals that show takedown and some repairs. Just one thing- evaluate it before you have thoughts of hacksawing the barrel to "cowboy" length. I traded a trap model off of a fellow that was bringing it into the shop to have it trimmed for cowboy action three or four years ago.
32" barreled guns also bring a premium- especially to the turkey shoot shooters.
It is not like modern pumps, and is more complicated yet a good solid platform that has stood the test of time.
You didn't specify the gauge- either 12 or 16 it will be, and the chamber length needs to be checked, as the earlier guns have short chambers in both gauges.
What is the prefix above or below the serial number if any? Is it a solid frame or takedown? Any special markings or features or is there checkering on the stock? If the stock has a pistol grip, is the pistol grip rounded or flat bottomed? Steel or hard rubber buttplate?
The action will likely need a good through cleaning even if it has been well kept- you can do if if you can yourself if mechanically inclined, if not, take it to a good gunsmith- he can also check the lock-up and the chamber length at the same time. The lock up is the single most important thing to check- if it's gummy from years of dried lubrication and powder residue it may not work reliably. Also, I don't know if it is a product of wear or of owners "adjusting" the overtravel screw behind the trigger, but sometimes the screws hold the triggers out too far and do not allow reliable cocking of the hammer when the action is manipulated.
There are some much more knowledgeable fellers on here than me, and they'll be along shortly- there are also some good websites devoted to the 1897, and also a couple of shop manuals that show takedown and some repairs. Just one thing- evaluate it before you have thoughts of hacksawing the barrel to "cowboy" length. I traded a trap model off of a fellow that was bringing it into the shop to have it trimmed for cowboy action three or four years ago.
32" barreled guns also bring a premium- especially to the turkey shoot shooters.Jbar4Ranch
New member
What's wrong with it?
Andy & JBar, The carrier isn't connected to the breech, they move seperately, the breech by pushing it with my finger after it's fallen back some, and the carrier most of the time with the pump. I've got a schematic of the action and it doesn't look too awfully complicated. Just would like some advice on what to look for, you mentioned gummed up parts and I'm thinkin' maybe broken spring(s). The bbl has already been shortened to 25". I took the magazine apart and there is a wooden dowel at the bottom of the spring. Is this to limit the # of rounds, or factory OEM? The trigger works when every thing is lined up properly....anything else that might help you point me in the right direction?
Andy Griffith
New member
That wooden dowel is in there to limit the number of shells in the magazine to two, so it is legal for hunting. It is not needed if you are going to use it for a range/home defense/plinking arm. If that dowel is marked with a "Winchester" sticker, it is desirable- just don't know exactly how much though.
It sounds as though it may have been put back together incorrectly after being taken apart, or the hook may be missing, or the tab on the action slide bar may be worn, bent, or "home gunsmithed." Hard to say without seeing it. It's easy to put back right if it has just been assembled incorrectly, but hard to describe. Also, I've found the soild frame guns need more finesse to get back together than their takedown brethren.
AGI actually has a video gunsmith course on the 1897, that might be a way to go, or perhaps a trip to the local 'smithy.
It sounds as though it may have been put back together incorrectly after being taken apart, or the hook may be missing, or the tab on the action slide bar may be worn, bent, or "home gunsmithed." Hard to say without seeing it. It's easy to put back right if it has just been assembled incorrectly, but hard to describe. Also, I've found the soild frame guns need more finesse to get back together than their takedown brethren.
AGI actually has a video gunsmith course on the 1897, that might be a way to go, or perhaps a trip to the local 'smithy.
Andy, I forgot to say it's a 12 guage. Also, the receiver serial # and the barrel # are different so it's a "parts" gun. Whoever married them up semi stripped the threads on the magazine (those I cleaned up), but I can't get the barrel to budge, yes, it's a takedown model, I may try a vise with wooden jaws and a leather padded set of vise grips to remove it then clean the threads, or just leave it be if I can get it working without having to remove it. Didn't see any sticker on the dowel and I'm not that anxious to see it again, scared my dog pretty good when I lost my grip on the end plug and the spring shot out into the room LOL. It's a "plain jane" model, here's a pic to answer your style questions.
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Andy Griffith
New member
Please read this before trying to remove the barrel or barrel/magazine assembly!!!
The receiver extension is very, very fragile! I don't know whether you are trying to get the assembly off of the receiver, or the barrel out of the receiver extension. Either way, too much torque will bend the receiver extension and it will never be right again and won't go back together. I've passed up a lot of guns because the receiver extension was all out of whack. I have a jig with a solid steel piece that goes into where the magazine tube would go so I can remove barrels from the receiver extension without damaging them, and it still requires soaking penetrating oil and some gentle heating.
It could be that the one on this gun could already be somewhat bent, and that's why it's not coming apart. New ones are finally available from Gun Parts Corp, but they are nearly $100.
Soak the assembly with penetrating oil of some kind (liquid wrench, kroil, etc.) and don't get it on the wood. Go gently and tap it with a rubber, plastic or leather hammer every once in awhile to help loosen it. If you go easy, it'll take some time, but you'll get it.
I don't know if you've already found the schematic, but here it is:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/SchematicDisplay.aspx?schem=/images/schematics/Winchester_97_schem.jpg&name=97+Takedown+(*)
The receiver extension is very, very fragile! I don't know whether you are trying to get the assembly off of the receiver, or the barrel out of the receiver extension. Either way, too much torque will bend the receiver extension and it will never be right again and won't go back together. I've passed up a lot of guns because the receiver extension was all out of whack. I have a jig with a solid steel piece that goes into where the magazine tube would go so I can remove barrels from the receiver extension without damaging them, and it still requires soaking penetrating oil and some gentle heating.
It could be that the one on this gun could already be somewhat bent, and that's why it's not coming apart. New ones are finally available from Gun Parts Corp, but they are nearly $100.
Soak the assembly with penetrating oil of some kind (liquid wrench, kroil, etc.) and don't get it on the wood. Go gently and tap it with a rubber, plastic or leather hammer every once in awhile to help loosen it. If you go easy, it'll take some time, but you'll get it.
I don't know if you've already found the schematic, but here it is:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/SchematicDisplay.aspx?schem=/images/schematics/Winchester_97_schem.jpg&name=97+Takedown+(*)
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I'm going to leave it alone, I don't need to take it off to fix the innerds anyhow, thanks for the heads up. here's the schematic I have, along with a parts list on another page.
http://www.rucascowboys.com/win97expodedview.htm
Here's the entire site.
http://www.rucascowboys.com/win97_takedown.htm
http://www.rucascowboys.com/win97expodedview.htm
Here's the entire site.
http://www.rucascowboys.com/win97_takedown.htm
Jbar4Ranch
New member
Concur - sounds like a problem with the slide hook.
Seventy bucks... dang! A ratty, but complete and serviceable '97 will bring $250 - $300 in a heartbeat.
If you can't get it apart by hand, and there's no reason to break it down, leave it alone.
Seventy bucks... dang!
A ratty, but complete and serviceable '97 will bring $250 - $300 in a heartbeat.If you can't get it apart by hand, and there's no reason to break it down, leave it alone.
Jbar4Ranch
New member
It's not uncommon on the sass wire to see '97's in "obviously aged", but decent shape and good mechanical condition to bring $450+
Jbar4Ranch
New member
1897's have been legal for as long as I've been in the game, which goes back to the last century. 
Extractors have always been legal, how in the world would you ever get the hull out?? Ejectors are also now legal on single shots, if you want to go that route.
Extractors have always been legal, how in the world would you ever get the hull out?? Ejectors are also now legal on single shots, if you want to go that route.
Everyone I shot with either slicked up the barrels (chambers) or had a gunsmith do it so that as you broke open the action you jerked the shotgun to the rear and the shells were thrown to the ground, reload and continue. Took alot of time to hone the chambers out properly, I still have the jig I attached to my drill to do it with.
Jbar4Ranch
New member
We still do it the same way today, but I've never seen a SxS without extractors.