I like adjusting the elevation on one sight for different range zeros. It simplifies the whole process. And you don't have to pay $150 for a used one in good condition.
Come up 7 MOA (28 clicks or two and one third turns) on the sight going from 50 to 100 yards. You may end up with the actual change for a given lot of ammo to be a few clicks different. Whatever it is, write it down on a sticky label then stick in on the stock below the rear sight.
I also like to set the sight's elevation index plate pointer and knob to 11 MOA above zero on the elevation slide when the sight is set for a 50 yard zero. When the rear sight's then moved down to read zero, that puts the sights very close to their bore sight position which makes their axis quite parallel to the bore axis. It compensates for the standard velocity 4" bullet drop at 50 yards from the bore axis at 50 yards plus the sight axis height above bore axis of about 1.5 inches; 5.5 inches at 50 yards is 11 MOA. The zero for 100 yards will be about 18 MOA above bore sight or 7 MOA above the 50 yard zero; bullet drop at 100 yards is about 16.5 inches below bore axis.
You can also zero the windage index plate and knob when you've got the sight zeroed in a no-wind condition. When both elevation and windage index plates and knobs are zeroed this way. they're set to what's called a bore sight or mechanical zero.
If the above's too complicated, just right down the sight settings for zeros at each shooting range. Different makes/lots of ammo will have slightly different zero settings.
Started out with a challenge today. Started with the 1" target fired 6 shots. Made a minor adjustment to the sights and went to a smaller peep aperture and fired 3 at the 2" target. This is only between 30-40 yards. Trying to get to know the rifle and its sights/trigger before I stretch it out. Not bad for a rigged up lawn chair rest. 
