Wiley Clapp Gp100 questions.

F

freebird72

New member
Ok, I like the GP 100 and I am really thinking of getting one. I have been looking at the new Wiley Clapp's version and I have a few questions about them.

Besides being a 3in, having a different stainless paint job, having different sights, and different grips, are there any other differences between the Clapp version and a regular GP100 ? Are the SA and DA pull the same?

What other differences are there besides looks and the sights?
 
It`s built on the fixed site frame & the rear site is dovetailed in making it look thinner & the edges of the top strap are rounded over.
 
I bought the a magazine with the Wiley clapp in it and it has a carry melt job and a bead blasted finish. The sights are Novak low profile with a fiber optic front. I have this guns spec sheet printed and on the fridge so my wife knows what to get me for Christmas! The Novaks really make this 3" GP look sharp!
 
I bought a TALO Wiley Clapp GP-100 a few months back. It's a work of art, and that may be its problem...

I love the melting and the wood grips, but hate the bead blast. It's scratch-prone and the drag line on the cylinder is so much more obvious.

I don't have buyer's remorse, mind you, but if I could have gotten a satin finish (like my Alaskan's) with my GP-100's trigger (I understand part of the TALO treatment included refinement of the trigger), I would have gone for it, even without the melting and wood grips.
 
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I've shot a few GP100 with stock triggers and thought they were pretty nice. Very smooth with a glass rod break. The only thing I would do is lighten the pull just slightly. I may end up going with a 4"GP100 and doing my own work to it, mainly because I'm planning on picking up a 3" SP101 soon and dont want 2 3" .357s.
 
All but 1 of the GPs I`ve worked on responded well to a 12# hammer & a 10# trigger return spring & cleaning up sharp edges/polishing .1 thing that helps also is shimming the hammer/trigger & DA dog, it makes DA/SA pulls very consistent & stops power robbing hammer drag.

Trigger Shimms.com has kits for DA/SA Rugers to choose from according to what thickness ya need& Lance is good people !!!

The 1 that did`nt had a very ruff DA pull/binding almost , I polished but ended up sending it to Ruger. I spoke with em on the phone & told em exactly what we did "no problem" was the response & they sent a pic up box to boot!

We put the stock springs in before sending it in & on the receipt they sent with it they replaced the trigger only but they had to do more than just fit it as the pulls were totally different & super smooth !!!

Is the Wiley Clapp worth more ??? to me no, I much prefer the satin finish
 
but hate the bead blast. It's scratch-prone and the drag line on the cylinder is so much more obvious.
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I agree, the satin finish is real nice to work with. Get a scratch... no worries... a few swipes with a scotchbrite pad and good as new.
 
freebird72: But the trigger is different? Is $200 different?
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My understanding is the trigger is not stock. Whether it's an aftermarket one or a reworked OEM, I don't know. No, the trigger, although a really nice one, does not represent a $200 difference, but together with the melting, the grips, and the visual appeal of a virgin finish, maybe...

Anyway, I had my mind set on a GP-100 (thanks partly to Jeff Quinn at Gunblast.com), and the one under glass at my LGS some months back (when the Ruger pipeline was all but dry) didn't just call my name, it yelled it. Who was I to refuse?

If I were buying now, I'd go for a satin-finished 4.2" bbl (for the additional muzzle velocity and sight radius). I'd soften offending edges myself. And if dry-firing and, say, 500 rounds couldn't do the job (as they have on my other guns), I'd get a gunsmith to smooth out the trigger.
 
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