why not the gp101

Are you talking about a snub GP-100? Ruger does make a 3" model. It is HUGE compared to a S&W 2" Model 10 K frame. When compared to a M65 LadySmith, it is still BIG. I don't see the need or use for it. The SP-101 is still BIG for a 5 shot snub. I have a Model 30 S&W J frame in 32 S&W Long. My friend has a SP-101 in 32 H&R Magnum from a few years ago. Her SP-101 is larger in every dimension than my S&W M30. She CCWs her Charter Arms in 32 because it is smaller. I do see that S&W is going to produce 5" M60 357 Magnum kit revolvers though.
 
If you're talking about the SP101, the 5-shot revolver, I'll say it's the smallest gun I'd shoot .357 magnums in. Anything smaller or lighter would just be too painful to shoot enough for proficiency. The SP101 also takes J-frame speedloaders, and has Ruger's reputation for toughness (naturally).
 
The SP-101 is a fine little revolver indeed. But it's too big and heavy for a pocket gun (S&W642 is my choice in that category). And for a holster gun, you could pack a M65 3" or 66 2.5" nearly as easily for 6-shots vs. the SP's 5.

That said, the SP does make a great concealed carry gun with holster. Not much fun to shoot, though, compared to all the nice K- and L-frames and the GP line. Just not big, nor heavy enough for a lot of pleasurable shooting.

I treat my 3" SP like a "I-don't-really-care-what happens-to-it, so-I'll-take it along" gun. Toss it in the glove box of my truck. Toss it in the boat box. Set it on the deck beside the hot tub. Toss it in my motorcycle saddle bags. It's a great gun to have and not to have to "worry" about. I take it when I'd prefer not to subject one of my beloved S&W's to the bumps and bruises of everyday life. But I don't spend much time at all shooting it. There are a lot of other .357 revos that are much more enjoyable to shoot. Like the 3" or 4" GP-100 or most any K-, L-, or N-frame.
 
Are you talking about a snub GP-100? Ruger does make a 3" model. It is HUGE compared to a S&W 2" Model 10 K frame.

Apples and oranges... The 3" GP-100 compares quite well to the S&W 2.5" model 686 L frame.

The 2" SP-101 compares quite well to the old 2" Colt Detective Specials... never considered too large for concealed carry.
 
thanks guys.... So what I am looking at is size issue, and not a quality control or reliability issue. I was talking about the GP (something). The SP is way too small for my hands. I also like to shoot a lot so it is probably a GP for me.
 
The SP-101 is a damn fine revolver.
IF you want a little 5-shooter, it's the smallest I would shoot magnums out of. (And I shoot nothing but magnums out of mine). It's additional weight over the S&W model 60s and the larger, wider grip (distributes the recoil over more surface area on your hand) make it much more pleasant to shoot magnums in.

If you prefer a larger gun, the 3" Gp-100 is still easily concealable, has a shorter grip than the regular GPs, but still bigger than tha SP-101. I'm going to be ordering one (maybe two) of these int he near future.

The 4" and larger GP-100s are simply a joy to shoot. Some don't like tha factory grips, I love them, they fit me like a glove, and make the recoil a non-issue.

I seriously doubt you'd have ANY quality or reliability problems with an SP or GP-series gun.
 
Some real ones......
I'm pretty sure I could pick up just about any K, L or N frame square butt 6 shot Smith with adjustabe sights, load 6 rounds, pace off 5 strides and put at least 2 of the 6 on top of each other.
I don't think I could do that with a Ruger.
 
I had an SP101 (3") and it was scary accurate with Federal.357 125gr

Didn't shoot .38spcl all that well

They are all (Rugers) built like tanks
 
I'm pretty sure I could pick up just about any K, L or N frame square butt 6 shot Smith with adjustabe sights, load 6 rounds, pace off 5 strides and put at least 2 of the 6 on top of each other.
I don't think I could do that with a Ruger.

The fact of the matter is that most people do not shoot as well as their pistols are capable of. Shooting accurately has as much to do with the shooter's level of experience, as well as physical comfort with the gun, confidence with the gun, as well as the actual construction of the gun. To have a better understanding of the accuracy of a pistol, you should mount it in a rest and fire it from there. This will give you a better idea of the accuracy your pistol is capable of. As for me, I have seen two people switch guns and shoot accurately when neither could hit the paper with the first gun they were shooting. Good luck and have a great day.

.44mag

P.S. The accuracy you mentioned above is below what either gun (Smith or Ruger) is capable of.
 
P.S. The accuracy you mentioned above is below what either gun (Smith or Ruger) is capable of.
Copy that.

That's why I specified ANY K , L or N frame - meaning being handed one stone cold and not firing it prior to those six shots,,,regardless of caliber or barrel length.

With one of MY K frames or MY N frame 29, I would expect 4 of 6 on the first cylinder at least,,,,(bearing in mind that I haven't fired a D/A shot out of a revolver for close to 4 and a half years -otherwise I'd expect better)
 
44 -
No problem. I didn't take it as a knock, just an opertunity to clarify my earlier post. Ruger vs Smith is the most recent version of the war of the preferred. Back when I started wheel-gunning, the big tussle was Smith vs Colt. Weird, but the same things people say about Smith being the weaker and more fragile, is exactly what was being said about Colts at the time.

(27's and 28's are tough as nails and will eat anything stuffed in 'em. Pythons are fragile ""pretty boys" but with an oh so sweet trigger)

Back then it was a no brainer for me to pick a Smith. I wanted both a .357 and a .44 D/A, and Colt only made a .357. I "adjusted" to the supposedly inferior trigger of the Smith model 19 and learned to *push* a cylinder release. Pythons are pretty and all, but you *pull* the cylinder release. Didn't care to risk pushing instead of pulling in a high stress situation (sometimes it's the smallest details that get'cha).

In keeping with "KISS", I just stuck with Smith for everything. Got used to the Smith trigger until now it's as second nature as breathing for me to operate one. OTOH, with being handed a Ruger (any Ruger) and told to hit what you can with it, I don't think I could one-hole something with the first few shots. I might be able to drop one out of 6 on top of another one. Maybe.. never tried, but if anyone is willing to hand me one I'd be happy to give it a go.

Rugers are good guns, no doubt about it.. maybe one of these days, I'll stash all my Smiths and pick up one of the Alaskans in either .480 or .454.
 
Trapp,

To answer your question there is no great difference between Smith and Ruger. A lot of fans on each side will spend hours telling why one is better then the other.

As far as size, the Ruger -Six series: the Speed, Service and Security Sixes are the same size as Smith "K" frames for all practical purposes. For the most part they can use the same size holsters as long as the holster has an open muzzle. These smaller guns relatively speaking are easier to carry. Though we are talking about something like 1/8" of an inch cylinder width difference.

The Ruger GP100 series and Smith 58X and 68x series as well as the Colt "I" frame(Python) are roughly the same size as well. These are a little larger than the "K" frames and a few ounces heavier. A 2 3/4" Speed Six weighs @ 32 ounces and a 3" GP 35 ounces. Not much in the grand scheme.

Any of them are good guns. It depends what feels more comfortable to you. If you have a range that rents them, rent a few and get what you like. The Ruger Six series has been out of production since the mid-eighties but you can still find them around fairly easily. Most of the "K" frames are about to be discontinued also, though even when they are there are literally hundreds of thousands of them around and you won't have a problem finding them.

Good Luck
 
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