which spring kit??

D

Doc Holliday 1950

New member
I'd like some advice on which spring kit do you think is best for my GP100 Ruger like Wolff, Wilson Combat, Brownell's etc.??? Which one have you used and which has worked best or didn't work well when you lighten a trigger????
 
I am also interested to get him on the right track to lighter trigger without compromising ignition reliablility. I see that a factory spring is 14#, I see them sell 9,10,11 and 12#. how low have you guys gone on the GP and retained full reliability? those are from Wolff BTW.

Wilson combat offers the same weights and also the trigger return spring at reduced power. are these a better option? I know Wilson generally makes quality components.


I woud probably assume 11# may be a good place to start, but how important is the return spring for lighter pull in da and sa?

have only done a spring job on a Taurus with great results, but I don't know how different a beast a GP is. I know there is no way around some type of diminishing return on lighter springs for potential light strikes, but I thin 11 "should" have sufficient power to set of all but maybe the hardest russians
 
Especially for a DA revolver, the grip has a lot to do with the effort it takes to pull the trigger.
The better the grip the lighter the trigger seems to be.

Just for laughs, one day I tried the cowboy B-movie technique of punching the gun out.
You guys remember, that.
It was a favorite of Hoppy and the guys.
Like they were throwing the bullets out of the gun.
Danged if that didn't make my stiff acting DA revolver just about go off on its own.
And motivate the guy at the next table to move a couple of benches down.

From that day, I've never messed much with triggers or springs, concentrating on grip and trigger technique, instead.
Lots less expensive and less risky, too.
Just a thought.
 
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Definitely worth the effort !!

By nature, we tend to stop looking when we find something that works and meets our expectations. Years ago I started using the Wolf-Pack #246 and that is what I use these days. I have actually gone back and forth between the 10 and the 12. Might add that there is more work on a "good" trigger job than the springs. The results are worth the effort. .... ;)

Be Safe !!!
 
on my personal gp, I have tried all the weights in the wolff kit. 10# was ok, 1/60 light strikes. 11 was 0 light strikes but felt odd.

Personally I like the weight and feel of the 12# anything less seemed I was outshooting the return. and the 12 just feels like the sweet spot. Have to add that I did ALOT of action work while I was in there so I can't say for only doing springs.

To me its not worth doing only the springs, you just have a slightly lighter crappy gritty pull.
 
After due consideration and the purchase of a 6 pack of "Snap Caps,
I have decided that my GP100 does not need any help.
Thanks for everyones comments. I will let things stay as is.
Regards,
Doc
 
spring kit

I keep going back and forth on this. Will see my Gun Smith Friday and see what I'm going to do. If so, I'll bring the Hammer spring to either 12 or 11 and trigger maybe less than the factory 12 lbs. any thoughts on this?
 
I'd say go for it, especially if your GS will take the time to knock off any rough edges or burrs that might be causing any rough spots during the cycle. It can always be put back to factory springs- but getting (spoiled?) by the luxury of a smoothed up action sure makes for more appreciation of your range time.
 
You really need to clean things up a little along with the springs.
I have drill bits the correct size for all drilled holes in a GP100 as well as the SP101. I hand turn them in the holes to remove any small burs, and slick them up.
You need to slick up some parts also. The Hammer Spring Strut is at the top of my list. Normally they are rough enough that I start with a File, then polish on the buffer.

https://gunner777.wordpress.com/2008/08/24/ruger-gp100sp101book-of-knowledge/

Read the above information on GP100 trigger Jobs about 3 times.

http://triggershims.com/ruger_double_action.html

This one is the source on Shims for the Hammer, Trigger, and Hammer Dog.
You can also get your Spring kit on the same order. He is a hair higher on the springs, but this is made up by shipping with the shims.

On the subject of which springs to buy. Who Makes the Springs, and who just resells springs they get from another source. My guess is Wolff is making Wilson and Brownells springs.

Back to Shims. The Trigger Shims, and Hammer Dog Shims are easy to install.
Not so for the Hammer Shims. You really need to make a Slave Pin to hold the shims in place, as you slide the hammer and shims into the frame. A dab of automotive assembly lube also helps to keep the shims in place.

Bob
 
I use mine for distinguished revolver matches.
Installed the 10# hammer/main spring and the 8# trigger return spring.
It passes the single action trigger weight of 2.5# but will not lift 2.75#(perfect)
I shoot timed and rapid in double action.
So using lower power springs to keep it practical and reliable are needed in revolvers for certain applications.
Great revolver.

Clarence
 
I tried the 10 and 12 springs and settled on the 12. There was a noticeable differences between the factory and 12 lbs. the difference between 10 and 12 didn't seem like much and the chance for light primer strikes with the 10 lbs is something I didn't want to worry about.

Like Viper225 mention the hammer spring strut might need to be addressed also. Mine looked terrible. I have smoothed it up a little and actually just ordered another one in hopes that it is smoother and to experiment with.

Does your hammer have scratch marks were it hits the frame? Mine did and adding hammer shims helped along with a little sanding
 
After due consideration and the purchase of a 6 pack of "Snap Caps,
I have decided that my GP100 does not need any help.
Thanks for everyones comments. I will let things stay as is.
Regards,
Doc
Click to expand...

Doc I think you have the best answer right there. I understand the most Rugers need some break in time, before the trigger smooths out. Why modify your revolver unless you have to?
 
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