Which gun was the LEAST reliable?

L

lambertsteeth

New member
Sorry for the negative energy, but I was wondering, from personal experience, which gun that you have owned, was the least reliable for you. I don't care about what you have read. I want in your hand experience. I want to know which gun you just could not make group and/or cycle reliably.
 
I guess that I have had great luck. Everything I own has been tremendously reliable. But I take good care of them and routinely clean them even if I haven’t taken them out to play recently. Knock on wood, this good luck shall continue!

Sorry I can’t be of help!
 
Well, I've had a few I didn't trust very well. One Tauus loosened up really quick, and I sold it pretty cheap, but it was always fairly reliable as far as going "bang" when I pulled the trigger. I sold it to a fella that knew it was loose, and he wanted to return it to Taurus for refurbishing.

I also had a Springfield Armory "micro-compact" .45 ACP for a short time. It broke twice before I'd shot the first 50 round box of target 230 gr factory loads though it, so I got rid of it as "unreliable". The factory fixed the both problems, and it worked great when I sold it, but I was done with it.

But the worst one I've personally owned was a CZ 75B in .40 S&W. That thing couldn't get through a single magazine of ammo, no matter the type or which magazine, without at least a couple of jams (stove-pipes, FTE, and so forth). I sold it to a fella who figured he could fix it.

By far, most firearms I've owned have been 100% reliable, and the ones I own now all are. Once in a while we all encounter a problem, so we deal with it the best we can. I never feel right selling such a firearm, so when I do I usually end up selling it for less than it's actually worth, and I let the buyer know why.

But I won't keep a firearm that isn't reliable.

Daryl
 
I had put 87 rounds through a .32 S&W Clerke 1st before I called it dead. It had developed a crack that started at the ratchet hand and went to the firing pin hole.
 
I've had a few clunkers from my "save a $ and buy brand B" days.
Lets see.

I had a few H&R revolvers that would misfire every 2-3 rounds in DA due to weak springs
Had a Taurus that blew up in my hand after only 7 rounds due to lack of forcing cone.
Beretta 21 A that would not feed ANYTHING reliably due to ????

Had an old well used Ruger MK I that would go full auto when it warmed up due to worn sear. Took 3 trips to Ruger to get it fixed.

Had early SA 1911A1 that would not feed anything reliably regardless of time and $ invested.
 
My Sig P6 refused to feed a single Federal HydraShock without jamming. While I know I could polish the feed ramp, it feeds and groups well with Cor-Bon PowerBall and FMJ of several flavors. I guess that's the downfall of using a 28 year old gun.

Other than that, my .22s will occasionally misfire when using bulk ammunition. This doesn't bother me one bit because then it's an extract and restrike ordeal.
 
I don't usually buy the SNS stuff, so I will say, without doubt, a Rogak. I bought it primarily as a collectible, but was surprised to find it just wouldn't fire. Then I took it down and the plastic block that holds the lockwork came apart in my hands. I had a machinist friend make a new block out of aluminum but the gun still wouldn't fire as the mousetrap mainspring just was too weak. The gun is still in the collection, but strictly as a "safe queen."

Not my gun, but the most inaccurate "reasonable quality" gun I ever fired was a Llama Max I. Looked great, but the internals were all hand filed and poorly fitted. At 25 feet, it wouldn't keep its shots in a 20" circle. I have fired RG-10s that actually shot better.

Jim
 
I've had pretty decent luck out of all the pistols/revolver I've bought. Had a M&P15 that was junk, but that's a different story.

Out of my pistols, the worst was a Jennings 22. Would work perfectly til exactly 100 rounds were through it before cleaning. Like clockwork, when it hit 100 rounds, it'd start jamming up. Clean it, and it'd be good for another 100. It was predictable, so I didn't think it was unreliable. Kept this up through about 1,000 rounds when I sold it.
 
Let's see...

--A Colt 1911 (pre A1) that I bought back in 1982 or so. would not feed anything including 230 gr ball ammo.

--A Rossi M69 that would un-latch after every fired round. Basically, a single-shot revolver.

--A Charles Daly 1911 that would not fire two consecutive rounds of any type of ammo without a mis-feed.

And the grand prize goes to:
Four different Kel-Tecs (a P32, two P3ATs and a P11) each of which was absolutely unreliable. Despite my best efforts, the guidance of KTRange and other forums, numerous free parts from Bill at KT, I finally gave up.
Kel-Tec will never see another dime of my money, and I will advise everyone I know to steer clear of their crap.
 
a taurus 905 9mm snub nose revolver. i dont know where my bullets go most the time with that gun. while the cylinder is for 9mm, i bet the barrel is a .38 or .357 or something and it causes the bullets to tumble right away
 
A Browning Hi-Power that would fail to extract every other round. Sunk a good bit of money trying to fix it before ditching it. Sad because I really liked the gun.
 
I bought a brand new Ruger MkIII target pistol. Had nothing but trouble with it.

Jammed like crazy. Sent it back to the factory. They had it a week and sent it back. They told me they had replaced the ejector, the extracter and worked on the feed ramp. They also told me they ran 40 rounds through the gun with no problem.

I took it back to the range and it ran about 15 rounds without a problem and then the same thing started again. Failure to feed with rounds hanging up on the lip right at the feed ramp.

Made no difference what kind of ammo I had. I used Remington, Winchester, CCI. You could not get the gun to load a round by inserting the magazine and cycling the bolt. You could not load a round from an open bolt.

I had new magazines and I had some that were reworked like the Ruger forum recommends. Did not make any difference.

That gun was a POS and there is no getting around it.

I am not anti Ruger. If you have read any of my posts you will know that I have a Single Six convertible, 10-22, Mini14, two M77V rifles and a Redhawk.

I took it home and took a Dremel tool and destroyed the gun piece by piece and threw the gun away except for the barrel which I kept as a reminder. . .

A bit drastic you say? Probably so. I do not have the time or the patience to deal with things like that anymore.

I know many of you have them and they work fine. I am able to recognize a hangar queen when I see one and chose to destroy the gun rather than inflict that thing on someone else.

Do I regret it? Absolutely not.

I bought a Browning. Probably should have done that first.
 
Have you try to send it back to the manufacturer for a refund on the basis of the gun being unreliable or not safe?

By marketing tactics, manufacturers claim and advertise a reliable gun. But If the product fails to meet that criteria, then it is the manufacture's responsibility. is it not?

How can I ethically offload a problem weapon onto an unsuspecting buyer?
Yes, we can say "buyer beware". But that results in a "never buy a used gun".
 
I've got no complaints with any of mine, including the Jennings J-22 which I bought as a kind of novelty and have developed a weird fondness for.

I've got a couple of buds that have headaches with their Taurus Autos however. jd
 
Probably the MkIII 22/45 I bought new. Refused to feed anything but round nose, and even then it was iffy.

My CZ 75BD isn't reliable either, at least with range ammo. Can't recall it having a problem with defensive though.]

My Sig P6 refused to feed a single Federal HydraShock without jamming. While I know I could polish the feed ramp, it feeds and groups well with Cor-Bon PowerBall and FMJ of several flavors.
Click to expand...

The P6 was designed to run on FMJ only. Can't blame the gun on that. The 225 has a different ramp profile to accept JHP.
 
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