Which Beretta 92 Upgrade?

P

Phoenix54c

New member
Hi,

I need an opinion a Beretta 92 mod designed to reduce/eliminate its infamous locking block damage. I am looking at two custom springs & guide rod packages.

Sprinco Recoil Reducer for Beretta 90 Series
http://www.nokick.com/Sprinco_Recoil_Mgmt_Guide_Rod_Beretta_92A1_p/sprinco-14055.htm

Wilson Combat Flatwire Recoil Spring
http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Flat-Wi...turion-Beretta-90-Series/productinfo/752CP14/

I am skeptical about this claim that this "Flatwire spring" will last forever. I'm not able to find much proven info about their lifespans. Does anyone have experience or advice regarding which of these parts might better ease the impact on the locking block? The $50+ premium of the Sprinco isn't an issue.
 
I wouldn't sweat the upgrade. All I did was replace the rod with a steel one. The locking block issues have been long corrected. If it worries you buy a spare locking block. Spring and guide rod have no effect on the blocks breaking
 
I have not used either.

I too am of the opinion that buying either of these might not be cost-effective. As for the Beretta Shok-Buff, I know that opinion is divided as to whether the Wilson Combat Shok-Buff for the model 1911 accomplishes anything positive or not.

I would just buy a new locking block and keep it at hand. A new one should be the third generation. Inspect your locking block carefully every time the pistol is field stripped for cleaning. If you see anything that looks like a crack, replace it and buy a spare locking block kit. If you get up to a round count of 25,000 or so, replace the block and buy a new spare.

A locking block kit from Beretta USA costs $35 and includes a recoil spring.
 
Right.
E. Langdon competed with Berettas for a good while and said he replaced the locking block at 20,000. Recoil spring every 5000 and other springs at 10,000.
 
pblanc said:
I would just buy a new locking block and keep it at hand. A new one should be the third generation. Inspect your locking block carefully every time the pistol is field stripped for cleaning. If you see anything that looks like a crack, replace it and buy a spare locking block kit.
Click to expand...
IMHO this is your final answer. :)

Phoenix54c, seeing as how you never state the age or version of your pistol, here is a visual guide to the locking block generations.

http://www.berettaforum.net/vb/showthread.php?t=45325

Note that the Gen3 plunger is different, so you need to replace the plunger if upgrading to Gen3.
DonP said:
I believe Beretta is on the 4th design.
Click to expand...
Note that the Beretta community seems to generally consider the 2nd and 3rd designs to be minor variations of Generation 2; this is discussed in the linked thread.
 
The biggest problem for the locking blocks cracking is very simple to correct. When you clean your Beretta check the length to the recoil spring. The best way is to take the barrel and place it standing up on a flat surface (muzzle up). Then place the recoil spring up next to the barrel. If the recoil spring is longer than the barrel you should be good to go. If the recoil spring is the same length as the barrel or shorter than the barrel it needs to be replaced. Also another check is to take a magnifying glass and visually check the locking block for cracks and replace the block if you find ant cracks along the wing areas. I have a Beretta 92F that I received as a gift around 1987 with the original locking block and the original recoil spring. Both are just fine.
 
This is a title.

Neither of these products will have any influence on the life of your locking block whatsoever. I have never had a problem with my M9's locking block and it has 17,500+ rds. through it. That being said, if you are looking to upgrade your pistol, look no further than Wilson Combat.
 
$80 for the non Wilson spring, damn. Probably don't sell too many of them. IF you had to replace it is go with the Wilson combat but the stock one works just fine.
 
Appreciate the input folks. Yes, I have a Gen3 locking block with under 1,000 rounds. I had not heard they were so durable that they could withstand tens of thousands of rounds without breaking. There is a lot of FUD surrounding the 92; it is hard to find good information about it verified by experience.

Don P said:
Spring and guide rod have no effect on the blocks breaking
Click to expand...

Most articles I read name old springs as contributors to locking block damage. Why do you say this is incorrect? Perhaps the better question is exactly why does the locking block break? The barrel/slide only move about an inch before the locking block retreats into its nook; I think that as the spring looses length after many cycles (even 1/2 - 1"), the locking block's impulse is not slowed at all -- it just slams into its groove.

So, a spring that last longer is definitely a plus. At such a price, I will probably give the Wilson a try. Best to keep upgrades simple. Thank you for your insight everyone!

P.S. In case you're thinking about it, bypass the Wolff & Wilson trigger return spring conversion kits. With it in, the single action is mushier than a wet sponge. "If it 'aint broke, don't fix it." Wish I would take that advice more often... :rolleyes:
 
I have a stainless 92FS, Made in USA, it's about 15 years old, shot quite a bit. No modifications or broken parts yet. I did have to install a taller rear sight. Beretta don't care that it shoots 6" low at 25 yards. I just afew days ago sent the slide to Wilson to convert it to decocker only. A couple times during a match I did a slingshot slide release and then it wouldn't shoot because I accidently hit the safety. It's been a good reliable gun other than that.
 
IMO, recoil springs/buffers have very little effect on the locking block life. They might make the frame last longer, but then the Beretta frames already last pretty well.

The reason is that recoil springs/buffers do most of their work at the end of slide travel and the locking block takes most of its abuse during the very first part of slide travel. By the time the slide bottoms out (the point at which buffers and recoil springs have their maximum effect) the locking block has been stationary for "long time" relatively speaking.

Theoretically speaking, if you want to improve locking block life, you want to do something to slow the slide velocity very early in the slide cycle. Problem is, if you slow it down too much you can cause reliability issues. Honestly, I think it's not really something people should worry about.

If you want to take preventive measures, then when shooting standard ammo (not +P or +P+) it probably makes sense to replace the block every 20,000 rounds.

Beretta sells a kit with a locking block, locking block pin, locking block plunger and a new recoil spring for $35. If you plan to shoot a LOT or have a friend with a 92/96, you can buy two kits and get them for $30 apiece.

http://www.berettausa.com/en-us/beretta-92-96-locking-block-kit/le9201/
 
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